So I'm about to buy my buddy's 96 HX 5-speed, since he got a DUI The car is pretty clean except for a little damage on the front and rear bumpers, and most everything works except A/C compressor and the windows don't work for some reason. I already have a 96 LS/V Teggy so the Civic will likely be the DD, my question is about performance. The car is bone stock, and from what I read on Wiki, it is basically the fuel efficiency version with the E-VTEC D16Y5, so when I get ready to build the car up, would the stock motor be a good candidate, or would heart transplant be the best option? A vague question I know, but I just wanted to get an idea of what kind of potential the D16Y5 has. Thanks guys.

 

D series is the grocery getter. A swap would be your best option if you're looking for performance.

 

That's what I was thinking, probably not worth even an exhaust or anything. Just wait for a K series later on...

 

It's up to you. I have a full exhaust on my D16y7 just because I want to. I know I'm not gonna get any real power tho until I do a swap

 

No point in building it. It would just be a wast of good mpg. Wait until you can swap the motor mean while enjoy it as a dialy.

 

Well of course that's more of a personal preference, but what is the difference in VTEC and this EVTEC?

 

I have the Same Car but 97 with a B16A1 because i have two b16 laying around, still working out on it, but for a fun daily driver there is alot you can do to a d16 fully build d16 boosted could get around 300+ HP for real cheap money i have a friend with one. but it all depends with what you want

 

vtec is for power vtec e is for fuel efficiency nothing else.

 

Well it won't be modified at all for awhile, I have two more semesters of school before I get my aircraft mechanics license, so the mileage will be best until then. I'd like to drop in a K, or put the K in the Teg and give the civic the LS/v, but that's all up for consideration.

So the EVTEC is operated the same way? The way it sounded was that it had a different mechanism,

 

If I do build it, it'll stay N.A., more longevity and less complications. 300hp would be overkill for my needs and wants, until I get another AWD car.

 

Not really.

 

Boost = more heat and stress = more fatigue = lower service life expectancy. Granted if all things involved are properly modified/replaced then forced induction can be reliable and last a long time, but generally speaking turbocharged engines tend to wear things out a lot faster. Unless of course you never put your foot down, but that kind of defeats the purpose.


More moving parts usually increases the chances of complications. Usually being the key word.

 

Having said that, I'm not trying to say anyone shouldn't turbo a car, just that for the type of driving I do, N.A. will get what I want, when I have the resources I will likely try out a turbo setup, just not yet lol.

 

Not really.

 

I see you put a considerable amount of thought into those responses. The engine was engineered to be N.A., turbocharging or supercharging will add more stress and wear, due to higher pressures and temp's. Unless your turbo setup is tuned for efficiency and not added power, then yes, really.

 

Not really. It's all about maintenance, quality parts and a solid build. 4 years and counting on a boosted stock Y8 and people with many more years than that so I'd call that dependable. Sorry but your statement is uninformed and speculative. Many before you had the same logic and have been proven wrong time and time again.

A boosted engine will fail or last as long as any stock engine.

 

It's easier to agree with a response like that, considering I said earlier that they can be reliable with the right modifications and parts. I have only had one turbo car, an Evolution 8, so my experience with turboing a factory N.A. car is nill. I'm saying that there are parts that will need to be replaced because factory ones are not meant to deal with the boost, or they will fail, either quickly or eventually, and that is not something I want to get into yet with my car(s). And anytime you subject parts to pressures and temperatures out of their intended range, they will fatigue quicker.

 

Not really.

 

What kind of setup are you running? Just out of curiosity.

 

Exactly as in my sig. A 15g street tuned to about 10PSI. 450cc injectors. Stock engine.