surge when tap/ barely touching gas pedal
I have a full B16 in a eg hatchback. year 94. I have had many small problems with it just like this, easy to fix but hard to diagnose.
So the problem is: when I barely press/ tap the gas and hold it, it surges. Like if the pedal is pressed 5-10 millimeters in. It is not a high high surge, but it is noticeable and affects performance of the car. I cannot move from a complete stop smoothly, I have to rev up to 2-3000 rpm.
A problem before this was that it was idling too high. The screw did nothing to change it. I cleaned and tightened the FIAC and that fixed it but it still surges when barely pressing/tap the gas.
Any thoughts? Help?
So the problem is: when I barely press/ tap the gas and hold it, it surges. Like if the pedal is pressed 5-10 millimeters in. It is not a high high surge, but it is noticeable and affects performance of the car. I cannot move from a complete stop smoothly, I have to rev up to 2-3000 rpm.
A problem before this was that it was idling too high. The screw did nothing to change it. I cleaned and tightened the FIAC and that fixed it but it still surges when barely pressing/tap the gas.
Any thoughts? Help?
Last edited by galdo12; Dec 16, 2012 at 12:42 PM. Reason: Change title
yes. It was leaking where the pipe connects to the throttle body at the bottom. I sprayed card cleaner and the idle dropped then came back up. But it was leaking from before and the surging was not present. I changed the gasket for the throttle body but it is still surging.
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
It's possible that the hole in your intake was there, and not very big...then it split more and now it's big.
Remove the vacuum leak and see if the problem persists.
Remove the vacuum leak and see if the problem persists.
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
As above, vacuum leaks first, they always need to fixed pronto.
Second, make sure you don't have your throttle cable too tight.
Second, make sure you don't have your throttle cable too tight.
I will knock out the leaks tomorrow hopefully. and throttle cable and tps are properly adjusted. Thanks for the help guys! this has been the strangest thing iv ever encountered. all other comments and advice are welcome!
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Google around 'testing resistance iacv' or similar to test IACV electronics. If resistance is in range and it's clean and no vacuum leaks it should be fine.
thanks for the advice I'll look into it more, iv also seen tests where you can unplug it and see if idle raises, or to give it a12v signal to see if the valve closes completely
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Yeah, if it's an actuator that makes sense. I haven't tried that personally and don't have my civic anymore.
yes. It was leaking where the pipe connects to the throttle body at the bottom. I sprayed card cleaner and the idle dropped then came back up. But it was leaking from before and the surging was not present. I changed the gasket for the throttle body but it is still surging.
yeah I blocked off the fitv but it still boggs if I shoot the mating surface with brake clean, so it's just not blocked off well I suppose. before the block off it surged at idle. the coolant line is bypassed straight from the head to the iacv
swapped tb gasket and blocked the fitv with gasket material and somethin similar to rtv, still surged at allitle throttle, swapped ecus for a gsr basemap with deleted iab and it stopped, only problem is when driving it around it has absolutely no power. what dyou guys think?? I also have no o2s hooked up. All help is appreciated!
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
You're changing too many things at once. Try to narrow it down by changing one variable at a time.
IAB removal wouldn't cause it.
I'm not sure what you had on there before but if it was a standalone and a crappy tune that could have done it.
IAB removal wouldn't cause it.
I'm not sure what you had on there before but if it was a standalone and a crappy tune that could have done it.
agreed I changed too much haha. but it was good to find out my tune wasn't good for the motor, however the tune worked okay with my friends gsr. which raises the question of weather my car is still screwed up or if the tune just didn't match well to my set up.. I don't know what the gsr base has different besides more fuel output, but I had perfect throttle response just off idle. does the iab delete affect the iacv? after plugging and unplugging the iacv, the car would hold around 3k idle with it plugged in. thanks for the help
Where the hell do these guys be getting the idea to run different basemaps with different engines? I don't get this ****......
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
I couldn't agree more. People have been doing that for YEARS in the [bad] theory of pushing out more power. I'm not sure if this was that or just B16 ECU availability or something.


