1989 Honda Accord LX problems
Hello, and I'm welcoming myself to this wonderful forum :-)
I am having a few troubles with my Honda I just picked up. I'm getting minor left and right movement in my steering wheel while trying to keep it straight. I don't know what it could possibly be.
Also, when idling, my car feels like it wants to stall out. It sputters really bad while sitting in first gear and the clutch fully depressed.
Any diags?
2.0L, 5 speed trans, A20a1
I am having a few troubles with my Honda I just picked up. I'm getting minor left and right movement in my steering wheel while trying to keep it straight. I don't know what it could possibly be.
Also, when idling, my car feels like it wants to stall out. It sputters really bad while sitting in first gear and the clutch fully depressed.
Any diags?
2.0L, 5 speed trans, A20a1
Possiable outer tie rod or inner tie rod ends. Or your power steering rack itself.
As far as idling it could many diffrent things... it could be a fuel issuie, air issuie, dont realy know without looking at it.
As far as idling it could many diffrent things... it could be a fuel issuie, air issuie, dont realy know without looking at it.
I let my buddy take a quick peek at it earlier, and he told me it's 90% the distributor cap and rotor. Is there a way of testing this to make sure they're bad? And would that cause rough idling, as well as near stalling of my engine? Today, I went to the gas station, and all I could hear was it sputtering as it was running out of gas, but I had a full tank 
Do you think the dist. cap & rotor is the culprit?

Do you think the dist. cap & rotor is the culprit?
Why don't you change it and find out? I'm betting it's never been touched since you've owned the car. I'm also going to go out on a limb and guess it hasn't had a full tune up in a long while.
Actually, I popped my hood and found the plug wires were misplaced on the dizzy cap.
If I'm not mistaken, looking at the engine, it's 1-2-3-4? Correct? Numbers meaning cylinder/piston number.
I took off the cap and checked the rotor, they both look pretty damned new.
The rotor and cap are cheap just replace them. make sure you put the rotor on RIGHT so many people put them on the wrong direction because theres nothing that prevents you from doing so. The A20A1 is carburated so vacuum leak is more than likely the issue your having as far as idling funny.
If youre standing in front of the car and looking at the engine the cylinders go 4-3-2-1
and the new cap should have tiny marks where the wire boots go that indicate which wire goes where. for example I for wire from cylinder 1. II for wire from cylinder 2. III for wire from cylinder 3. Lastly, IIII for the wire coming from cylinder 4.
If youre standing in front of the car and looking at the engine the cylinders go 4-3-2-1
and the new cap should have tiny marks where the wire boots go that indicate which wire goes where. for example I for wire from cylinder 1. II for wire from cylinder 2. III for wire from cylinder 3. Lastly, IIII for the wire coming from cylinder 4.
Also, it doesnt hurt if you replace the wires with OEM wires as well. Yes theyre expensive if you can find them at your local dealer but they will outperform anything you can find from your local auto parts store
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Okay I did that, and it's still idling funny. I did infact, take a video on my cellphone of the sound. It's sputtering when my heat is on.
Usually when it's sitting there, it'll sputter, like a misfire, but I don't think it's misfiring. It's so weird. ;O
Bogging down, almost stalling, then raising RPM
Usually when it's sitting there, it'll sputter, like a misfire, but I don't think it's misfiring. It's so weird. ;O
Bogging down, almost stalling, then raising RPM
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