The crankshaft bolt broke off in my crank, I bought a used crank for $40. My question is would I be worth swapping over the new crank or just getting a new engine? Also, I can't find a disassembly guide on the f22b2 block for the life of me. I've rebuilt b series before but I know the f series is a little more complex. I don't have an engine lift so I plan on taking off the tranny and swapping the crank with the block in the car. I know it'll be hard but I'm short on cash and I need my car back on the road. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Not sure what transmission you have, if it's an AT then click on my 'How to remove/install AT...' link in my sig. You might be able to leave the D side radius rod and still be able to get the oil pan out. Just remember you only need to take the bolts out at the firewall engine mount that bolt through to the transmission, there is I think one bolt that only bolts to the engine and firewall mount.

 

It's a manual trans, but I apreciate it. I don't have an engine hoist on hand so I plan on swapping out the crank with the block inside the car. I just want to find a write up on the f22 block disassembly.

 

This might be a dumb question but why not just drill and tap it out or use an extractor.

 

I've heard that once the bolt breaks off the thread inside the crank weakens, and all the machine shops are giving me outrageous prices on the job.

 

I have a 97 accord with the F22B2. I have been through that engine style a couple of times. The oil pan comes off w/o removing the Trans though you need to anyway to pull the crank and the oil pump had to come off as well.There is also a covert that holds the rear main seal in that also has to be removed. It can be done. It is going to be a bitch possibly even a ****. But it can be done.

 

That's somewhat reassuring, lol, I'd love to find a write up on it, but maybe I'll just have to make one. Do you now the torque specs on all the bolts?

 

Main bearing caps.. 2 step process. first 22 ft.lbs second 54 ft.lbs
Connecting rod cap nuts 34 ft.lbs
Rear main seal retainer bolts 104 in-lbs
Crankshaft pulley bolt 181 Ft.lbs
Fly wheel to crank bolts 76 ft.lbs
Oil pan to engine 120 in-lbs

that should get you through. let me know if you need more.

 

i just remembered.. You can also weld the harmonic balancer to the crank shaft like i did to my friends old 93 accord with the F22A1. i didn't want to do it but he wanted the car to run to sell it. Actually put a thousand miles on the ******* thing before getting rid of it. i didn't start the welding, he did.. then i realized that he sucked and couldn't weld. so i finished it. I DON'T RECOMMEND EVER DOING THAT ON ANY VEHICLE!!! just had to share that little horror story that actually killed me inside.

 

I may consider it, lol. I just need it to run for a month or two before I sell my civic and buy a h22 swap

 

You know i have heard great things about doing an h22 swap. I almost dropped an F22B DOHC non VTEC into my accord. Came out of a prelude. Just didn't get the cash fast enough (one day too late)

 

I've seen em! A buddy of mine has one in his accord coupe and it's pretty quick. He's going j series and he'll hold the engine for me, just gotta sell my civic first =\