when it rain out the car is hard to start and when it does will die on me while driving!

ive replaced ign coil with brand new oem and cap and rotor a few weeks ago, and i repace the ignitor a few months ago in attempting to fix another issue.

so now im begining to think it is the distributor itself.when i take the cap off i noticed a very small amount of reddish dust which i know usually indicates a bad dizzy however there was hardly any of this dust in there, but it was there.

also when i take the whole dizzy off and try to spin the rotor it spin very feely (as i believe it should) but but has a light bumpy feel to the spin if that makes any sense. im not sure if it is suppose to have that feel (it kinda feels like maybe its normal) to it when it spin or if it is suppose to feel 100% smooth when spinning,

please help guys!! I need her running again it is the b18c1 engine!

 

If it is only a problem when it rains, [high humidity] I would check the cap gasket...
#9 http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Also make connections to the coil and ICU are tight. 94

 

How old are your plug wires? A fail to start in wet weather is usually due to plug wires.

 

littless than a yr old. All ngk

 

New dust bearing before it takes a crap

 

Yeah bearing not dust bearing love auto correct

 

oh ok. so are you saying that the dizzy is about to take a crap on me even though there is just a very tiny amount of the red dust?

 

The dust of death yes. It could be overheating the rotor and melting the center of the rotor allowing it to actually turn inside of the plastic. Seen it quite a few times. But that's just what I've seen.

 

that would be the REDdust of death.

If it is slightly oily, it is a sign of the bearing, [and oil seal] going bad. 94

 

other than that slight amount of red dust, there is no oils that i had seen. i think im going to have to save up for an oem dizzy but it very expensive, there are a few cheaper ones that are used on ebay but i worry that they may also have problems.

my question is : i know that aftermarket dizzys are not very reliable at all, but IF i buy a cheaper aftermarket dizzy BUT put my coil and ignitor from my dizzy in it would it be almost as good as an oem dizzy?

 

Are you saying, http://members.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...rid=flying_pat does not make a distributor for your car?

How about, http://www.msdignition.com/products/

Or, http://accel-ignition.com/

Or, http://mallory-ignition.com/

Or is it just the price your worried about, if so, PicknPull, http://www.picknpull.com/ is your friend, about $25 for a Honda distributor, with 30 day warranty, [exchange or credit]. 94

 

I change seals and bearings on Honda distributors
Often

 

***UPDATE***

OK guy update, it was a very dry day today and a little warm out, i started the car (started right up no problem) and let it warm up for about 8 minutes and after that while idleing it just died. it didnt sputter or get rouhg or have any crazy rpm movement, it literally just shut off as if turning the key off. the lights and everything stayed on in the dash the engine just turnd off.

do I need a new dizzy guys?? is it possible that the new coil i put in could of failed? i got it brand new from honda just a few weeks ago. also the ignitor i put in was used a few months ago maybe i should put the old one back in, but does just shutting off like that sound symptomatic of a ignitor going bad or coil going bad? or dioes this sound more like something else in the dizzy like a sensor or bearing?

please

oh and also in cause you need to know the fuel relay does click and the i can hear the pump prime when i turn the keys to the on position

 

just for giggles, try cleaning the ground on the thermostat housing, hell clean all the grounds.

 

As mentioned, clean the thermostat grounds, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] also, test for power on the black/yellow going to the distributor assembly, [when engine stalls].

If the power to the distributor is good. pop the cap and make sure connections to the coil and ICM are good and tight, you may have to unplug the terminals, [female quick disconnect] and "crimp" them a little tighter, then reconnect them, they should be "tight" going on. 94

 

[QUOTE=fcm;48222857]As mentioned, clean the thermostat grounds, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] also, test for power on the black/yellow going to the distributor assembly,[when engine stalls].

hmmm are you talking about a blk yellow wire that go to the plug coming from the dizzy or from the engine side? and how exactly do i perform this test like wha tdo i need to use? and does the car have to be on?

 

[QUOTE=96hatchBoy;48223388]Yes, the black/yellow going to the distributor, you should test it on the distributor side of the plug, that way you test the plug also, [the plug has to be plugged in and ign. on]

You can use a 12V test light by "back probing", stick the test light probe into the back of the plug along the black/yellow till it reaches the pin in the plug, if the test light probe is too thick, just stick a paper clip into the plug, may even be worth it to stick the paper clip in and tape it in place so you can confirm it is making contact, [test for power] then when engine stalls all you need to do is touch the test light probe to the paper clip, [that is already installed and that you know is making contact with the pin]. 94