help with vehicle speed sensor!!
I'm swapping my 97 accord to a manual and I need to know something. Can I use the speed sensors from my automatic? Or are the ones for the manual different? Also the input and output shaft senors are called the vehicle speed sonsorsw, correct?
Also can I just use my auto ECU? I dont care about the CEL it will throw but will it affect the performance at all?
And if I have to get a manual ecu get I just get my auto ECU reprogrammed to be a manual ECU? If I cant is the manual ECU just plug and play? or will I have to get it reprogrammed to work with my options and security system?
And if I have to get a manual ecu get I just get my auto ECU reprogrammed to be a manual ECU? If I cant is the manual ECU just plug and play? or will I have to get it reprogrammed to work with my options and security system?
Comming from someone that has done the swap, they are different. They don't bolt up the same.
May, did your manual tranny come with the sensor and it was just broken or was it completely missing? Mine was broken but I was able to take the sensor apart and swap the good parts from my auto to the part I needed for the manual. Also you can use your auto ecu if you remove the mainshaft and counter shaft speed sensors from your auto and plug them into their appropriate plugs. You will have flashing D light but at least v-tech will still kick in.
May, did your manual tranny come with the sensor and it was just broken or was it completely missing? Mine was broken but I was able to take the sensor apart and swap the good parts from my auto to the part I needed for the manual. Also you can use your auto ecu if you remove the mainshaft and counter shaft speed sensors from your auto and plug them into their appropriate plugs. You will have flashing D light but at least v-tech will still kick in.
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Yes, I only posted one because they are the same.....what are you missing
Look up a 97 with a manual trans and a 97 with an auto trans...get the OE part number for the VSS for both......guess what you will find.

You can't do this on your own.........ok, I guess I have to post pic's.....
Look up a 97 with a manual trans and a 97 with an auto trans...get the OE part number for the VSS for both......guess what you will find.

You can't do this on your own.........ok, I guess I have to post pic's.....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ARNESS+-+CLAMP
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ARNESS+-+CLAMP
Why

I guess I have to also point out to you the difference between the links......one is for the KA4AT (that would be the auto) and the other is the KA5MT (that would be the manual trans).
Wow your cocky and arrogant. Have you ever done an auto to manual swap or even seen a manual and an auto speed sensor in person. Don't answer cus I know you haven't or else you wouldnt be quoting from a website. But I'm not going to argue with you and like I said before, COMMING FROM SOMEONE WHO HAS DONE THE SWAP THEY ARE DIFFERENT.
Arkangel I have yet to get my trans. I'm just starting my parts list. Where can I get a good manual trans for a decent price? Also what do you mean by removing the main and counter shaft sensors and plugging them into their appropriate plugs? And all that will happen is a blinking D light? any CEL's if I use the auto ecu?
Wow your cocky and arrogant. Have you ever done an auto to manual swap or even seen a manual and an auto speed sensor in person. Don't answer cus I know you haven't or else you wouldnt be quoting from a website. But I'm not going to argue with you and like I said before, COMMING FROM SOMEONE WHO HAS DONE THE SWAP THEY ARE DIFFERENT.
The question was about the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). That is the same on a manual or auto trans. Only reason for the link(s) to the part number was so that you or the OP could look for yourself. Which I can tell you didn’t do, I hope the OP does so they do not waste money. Of course IMO if you get a trans from a bone yard it will come with it....it may be good...might be bad but if it is bad and the one on the auto worked then just swap them, be sure to get the pin/link set properly.
Now if you are talking about the gear holder, yes the gear holder is different between the auto and the manual but who would remove that for this job, you just unplug the connector going the VSS on top of the gear holder…..btw the gear itself is the same.
And to answer your other question. Yes in my younger days I have, about 10~12 years ago in a 4th gen – so yes I prob have forgotten a whole bunch but that is the beauty of parts diagrams. I still don’t know why this matters.
Now, if I want a car with a manual trans, I buy one that way.
And this might set you off as well but here is a picture of a VSS for the 5th gen with the wire colors noted.
Arkangel I have yet to get my trans. I'm just starting my parts list. Where can I get a good manual trans for a decent price? Also what do you mean by removing the main and counter shaft sensors and plugging them into their appropriate plugs? And all that will happen is a blinking D light? any CEL's if I use the auto ecu?
Here is an example: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-auto-5spd-swap-%2A%2Alots-pics%2A%2A-1237137/
This is from the FAQ Sticky at the top of the section. A gogole search will get you more. I suggest you read those and get all of the facts together in your head. Then I hope you have a good shop manual to answer the small stuff.
Then, if you get stuck or have a question we will be glad to help answer those......good luck.
Arkangel I have yet to get my trans. I'm just starting my parts list. Where can I get a good manual trans for a decent price? Also what do you mean by removing the main and counter shaft sensors and plugging them into their appropriate plugs? And all that will happen is a blinking D light? any CEL's if I use the auto ecu?
I got mine off of eBay. T2t4 to be exact. The gears are a lot closer and they come equipped with an LSD but I paid 1k for it. There's a few threads that list gear ratios of different trannies for f and h series motors. You'll have to figure out what will suit your needs best. As for the sensors, If you can't afford to have the cel on then your better off getting the manual ecu. Im able to get around having to get my emmisions testing by swapping my instrument cluster so having the light on isnt a problem for me. But yes you will get a cel. And just to clarify for all the **** tards in here yes the actual physical sensor is the same for both trannies because like I said before I had to swap mine cus the one on my tranny was broken. Now the "gear holder" is whats different between the two. I assumed you were talking about the two as an assembly which is why I and everyone else, but the **** tards, said they were different.
. I'm just wondering how in heck yours got broken.....someone hit the thing with a hammer? You paid 1k for the trans and it was broken to the point the gear holder was damaged.....damn that sucks.EDIT: Glad you were able to learn something about how the speedo/VSS/gear holder wroks.
Lol you shoulda double underlined **** tard. Yea you shoulda seen how they rapped it. Half bubble rap, half newspaper and the only thing keeping the box together (lol yes they shipped it in a box) was the 10 miles of packing tape it was rapped in. We have like 5 junk yards here so parts are a plenty and I wasnt gonna bother making a fuss
I really don't care about the CEL. I'm just worried that it will make my car run like crap? Or will it just be a CEL and the flashing D4? Will it affect performance and/or fuel economy at all?
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From: Apple Valley, San Bernadino County, Ca.
When your CEL is on in any vehicle it changes the way it runs. Not exactly a noticeable change but it affects the mileage and power. But not OBDI Just OBDII.
No worries on performance. The car will run just fine. As for fuel economy there's no way to really tell cus your changing to many variables. For one, manuals are more effiecent and lighter than autos plus you'll have an extra gear. On the flipside if you get a close ratio tranny like mine, you'll be doing 3800 rpm in 5th @ 80 mph. What I am certain is that I get right at 320 miles to a tank and if I granny it or stay mostly highway I have gotten up to 345
And if you don't mind the cel and D light there are 2 sensors on your auto tranny that monitor the speed of the shafts inside the tranny. Don't panic cus they're on the outside of the tranny. They look like an abs sensor (I'll take pics when I have time). And as a matter of fact I believe the plugs/connectors are green if that helps. You don't even have to unplug them, just remove them from the tranny and place them to the side.
When I first did the swap v-tech wouldn't kick in and I had nooo power and couldnt get the car over 5k rpm. After playing around I plugged in all the sensors that were originally plugged in and voila problem solved. I later unplugged the shift solinoids and found they had no effect on it.
When I first did the swap v-tech wouldn't kick in and I had nooo power and couldnt get the car over 5k rpm. After playing around I plugged in all the sensors that were originally plugged in and voila problem solved. I later unplugged the shift solinoids and found they had no effect on it.
Just me and not trying to set anyone off. When the CEL trips.....default values are used to "get/limp" the car home or to be repaired. So your car will not preform as it should/could. Also in many states this will fail testing.
Example, 95 EX auto with over 380k on original motor and trans. High 25 mpg avg (~25.8), so 360 miles between fill ups with 60% highway - 40% city is normal and still have ~2 gallons left....too tired to go look up the gas tank size (14~17 ? fill up would be 12~13)
If you are ok with the lost performance then go for it. It is minor but it is there.
I'm pretty sure there was a "fix" for the ODB-I up to 95....had to do with getting into the ecu and cutting something....been too long.
So, IMHO either get a manual ecu or if you are willing to get into ecu and that....set the car to run on/with a manual trans.
Example, 95 EX auto with over 380k on original motor and trans. High 25 mpg avg (~25.8), so 360 miles between fill ups with 60% highway - 40% city is normal and still have ~2 gallons left....too tired to go look up the gas tank size (14~17 ? fill up would be 12~13)
If you are ok with the lost performance then go for it. It is minor but it is there.
I'm pretty sure there was a "fix" for the ODB-I up to 95....had to do with getting into the ecu and cutting something....been too long.
So, IMHO either get a manual ecu or if you are willing to get into ecu and that....set the car to run on/with a manual trans.
Thamks guys, I believe I am just going to get a manual ecu, just to avoid any doubt. I mean I can always sell my ecu and make my money back. One last thing, can I just buy a used one? And just to be sure it doesnt have to be reprogrammed to be VIN specific?


