1990 Civic SI No start after timing belt replacement.
So I bought this sweet little SI with only 124,000 KM off the original owner and as soon as I got it home the timing belt snapped. I replaced the crank seal, water pump, belt tensioner, and timing belt. I plan on doing the valve cover seals and cam seal but I want to see if I have any bent valves first. Motor is timed properly I believe. Cam is lined up with the lower/bottom mark on the inside timing cover mark, crank is lined up with the little white mark inside the marks provided on the lower timing cover. From what I have read this is correct, will post pics. It has spark and fuel but sounds like no compression, will be doing a compression test in the next 20 min. Please help! Any friendly suggestions appreciated!
So no compression on all 4
will the head from a 1990 civic DX 1.5 work on my SI?
So no compression on all 4
will the head from a 1990 civic DX 1.5 work on my SI?
Last edited by BakedAlex; Dec 8, 2012 at 12:33 PM.
You should read even or just about even on all cylinders when you do a compression test so any cylinder that looks way off is your problem
Is it the d16a6? If so, it's a simple process. Gotta make sure the bottom end is lined up with the center white line, and the top has the word "up" on the cam gear. Also there are two lines to line up with head surface, and, assuming it is the D16A6, a third line near the bottom of the gear that lines up with an arrow on the rear part of timing belt cover. The "up" will not be directly on top. It will be slightly toward the front. Once u get it close u will easily have it perfect. If It's off even a tooth you will notice.
Got it running, I had the crank lined up pefcectly...with the wrong mark haha. Cam was in the right spot tho. Runs good, no belt valves! A friend of mine accidently stepped on the lower timing cover and broke it so I need to replace that before she goes on the road. Cant wait to drive this car again, gonna miss the '89 when its gone tho. thanks for all the help guys
Hey I gave u the wrong info. When setting tdc u set it to the white mark off to the right by itself. The 3 that are together are for ignition timing.
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So I put insurance on the car today and I think I've bent a valve
compression is (cylinder 1 thru 4) 160. 165. 145. 157. So it seems that number 3 is fucked. Sputters at low rpm's. Sounds kinda bad when I'm in the engine bay. Any good suggestions? Someone suggested slapping a b16 head on, how hard/costly is that? If its even possible. What's a good way to go about this problem?
compression is (cylinder 1 thru 4) 160. 165. 145. 157. So it seems that number 3 is fucked. Sputters at low rpm's. Sounds kinda bad when I'm in the engine bay. Any good suggestions? Someone suggested slapping a b16 head on, how hard/costly is that? If its even possible. What's a good way to go about this problem?
Swap a new engine in.
Also - no b series head will work on a d series block...
A d16z6 will be a nice compliment, however...
Also - no b series head will work on a d series block...
A d16z6 will be a nice compliment, however...
I don't see a problem with your comp numbers. Iirc, the service limit is 26 psi or greater difference between cylinders. And if you had bent valves, that cylinder should read 0 psi as all compression would blow right through the open valve, correct?
Yes but if it was just slightly bent wouldn't it still hold some compression? An then slowly burn through the valve seat? It runs really good but I can hear a tick and it will sputter under load. Could it be my ignition timing is slightly off? The belt is defiantly on there 100% right
Ok thanks. I was pretty sure they weren't compatible. I don't think I have the funds for a ZC head, I was just gonna port and polish the spare 1.5L head and get it machined and put in some titanium springs. Is the 1.5 head the same as the 1.6? Same cam and everything?
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