misfire codes for 1999 2.3; have pic of plug; culprit?
Hi,
I own a 1999 Acura CL with 2.3 engine (same engine as that in 1998-2002 Accords - F23AI). Yesterday I had a blinking Check Engine Light, although the car seems to run fine. Didn't want to chance it and took it in for a code read. OBII indicated P1399 - which is "multiple misfire" and P0303 which is cylinder #3 misfire. Did some research and came up with a list that it could be anything from spark plugs, wire, distributor, coil, injectors and worse of all, leaking cylinder #3 valve/gasket. The latter is a possibility since at 212K, the car does burn about a quart or so every 1000 miles. But I have never seen any visible smoke out the back.
I did easiest/obvious first and pulled all four plugs (which I had replaced just 3 months ago). After cleaning them, it was obvious that the plug from Cylinder #3 is more discolored with more of a yellow burn along with what I think is carbon buildup. See pic for four plugs (Plug from Cylinder 3 is 3rd from left).

I decided to put #3 in #1 spot to see if I get a code and if so, would it be on Cylinder #1 (hoping it was just a bad plug). After resetting the car by pulling battery cable, I took it for another drive. Check engine light came on again within couple of minutes and started blinking soon after. Took it back to Advance Auto and got the same codes.
Advance Auto felt I could just replace the wires first and if that didn't do it, look into getting the new distributor which has the coil that controls all four cylinders built in. That part was less than a 100 bucks so seemed like a good deal. I need to drive this car tomorrow for 170 miles. The guy at Autozone felt the worse that could happen is bad mileage. After looking at the plugs, does anyone have any thoughts on what this could be and what to do? Little worried the plug indicates oil getting into the 3rd cylinder, which would be a costly repair right? Is it okay in the mean time to drive this car without causing more damage? I will have more time to work on it mid December when school is out. To be honest, I just need this car to get me through the next 1.5 years.
Oh, if I decide to change the distributor, anyone got a good DIY article on doing so?
I own a 1999 Acura CL with 2.3 engine (same engine as that in 1998-2002 Accords - F23AI). Yesterday I had a blinking Check Engine Light, although the car seems to run fine. Didn't want to chance it and took it in for a code read. OBII indicated P1399 - which is "multiple misfire" and P0303 which is cylinder #3 misfire. Did some research and came up with a list that it could be anything from spark plugs, wire, distributor, coil, injectors and worse of all, leaking cylinder #3 valve/gasket. The latter is a possibility since at 212K, the car does burn about a quart or so every 1000 miles. But I have never seen any visible smoke out the back.
I did easiest/obvious first and pulled all four plugs (which I had replaced just 3 months ago). After cleaning them, it was obvious that the plug from Cylinder #3 is more discolored with more of a yellow burn along with what I think is carbon buildup. See pic for four plugs (Plug from Cylinder 3 is 3rd from left).

I decided to put #3 in #1 spot to see if I get a code and if so, would it be on Cylinder #1 (hoping it was just a bad plug). After resetting the car by pulling battery cable, I took it for another drive. Check engine light came on again within couple of minutes and started blinking soon after. Took it back to Advance Auto and got the same codes.
Advance Auto felt I could just replace the wires first and if that didn't do it, look into getting the new distributor which has the coil that controls all four cylinders built in. That part was less than a 100 bucks so seemed like a good deal. I need to drive this car tomorrow for 170 miles. The guy at Autozone felt the worse that could happen is bad mileage. After looking at the plugs, does anyone have any thoughts on what this could be and what to do? Little worried the plug indicates oil getting into the 3rd cylinder, which would be a costly repair right? Is it okay in the mean time to drive this car without causing more damage? I will have more time to work on it mid December when school is out. To be honest, I just need this car to get me through the next 1.5 years.
Oh, if I decide to change the distributor, anyone got a good DIY article on doing so?
With what I've seen when a cylinder is burning oil the plug is usually white. But it looks almost like that plug is just soaked in fuel. Maybe the injector is stuck open? But I wouldn't drive it that far, simply because it could burn up the catalytic converter and/or worse, break down.
BTW, the same day I got this code I had added some of that oil stop leak to treat the valves etc. from burning oil. Sort of ironic the check engine light came on during the 80 mile drive back. Product was made by Bar. Could it cause that discoloration on the plug if the valves are worn real bad. Could it possibly get better.
You should do a compression test. That actually looks like coolant crystalizing, 'though I hope not, for your sake. Has your car overheated lately ? Are you losing coolant ?
That's the funny thing. It runs cool and pretty sure it has the same coolant level it had when I bought it this summer. I will give it a closer look today.
I was checking thru previous posts about this and saw info on oil leaking from the distributor from the seal. I just checked and I did find a decent oil leak that appears to be coming from underneath where the distributor bolts to the engine. Could this be the culprit of the misfires.... and, would misfires itself cause the discoloration in the sparkplug. I hope it is that simple!!!
Coolant was at a good level and didn't appear discolored.
Coolant was at a good level and didn't appear discolored.
Did you replace the cap and rotor?
What did the plugs look like BEFORE you cleaned them or is the pic before said cleaning.
From your description of the oil leak, that is the external seal and would not cause the miss.
Does the CEL only come on after the engine reaches normal op temp?
What did the plugs look like BEFORE you cleaned them or is the pic before said cleaning.
From your description of the oil leak, that is the external seal and would not cause the miss.
Does the CEL only come on after the engine reaches normal op temp?
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Hi, yes, this is a pic after cleaning. Before I cleaned them I didn't notice one having more wet oily deposits over another. I feel the CEL comes on (usually blinking) just after reaching operating temperature; but when I am at idle. It seems if I can immediately get my RPMs up (highway speed) and stay there, it doesn't come on. But when I get stuck at a light or drop my daughter off at daycare (allowing the engine to just idle for a couple of mins.), I see it. Curious what that could mean. Thanks.
Last edited by panzer948; Dec 3, 2012 at 01:19 PM.
Just thought I would share what I've been doing to try to fix my CEL. Today I replaced the distributor with a re-manufactured unit from advance auto, as well as my rotor, cap, new spark plug wires and changed oil/filter as well. Sparkplugs are still relatively new so kept them. Reset the battery and took it for a test drive. Was happy to see that I put everything back together correctly... but disappointed that my CEL light came back on and started flashing. Still only does this when I am at idle after reaching operating temp. Advance auto reran the OBDII and I still have the same Cylinder #3 misfire and random misfire codes as before. They suggested I try seafoam in case my fuel injector(s) are dirty. Will give that a try for a couple of days. Any other suggestions on what it could be? Guess I will have to take it in for diagnosis.
Just thought I would share what I've been doing to try to fix my CEL. Today I replaced the distributor with a re-manufactured unit from advance auto, as well as my rotor, cap, new spark plug wires and changed oil/filter as well. Sparkplugs are still relatively new so kept them. Reset the battery and took it for a test drive. Was happy to see that I put everything back together correctly... but disappointed that my CEL light came back on and started flashing. Still only does this when I am at idle after reaching operating temp. Advance auto reran the OBDII and I still have the same Cylinder #3 misfire and random misfire codes as before. They suggested I try seafoam in case my fuel injector(s) are dirty. Will give that a try for a couple of days. Any other suggestions on what it could be? Guess I will have to take it in for diagnosis.
I agree.
There is a lot of junk out there for Honda. I would buy OEM Honda plugs/rotor/cap and especially the distributor.
I just replaced the plugs, rotor, cap and distributor yesterday. Even though they weren't OEM parts, they obviously weren't the culprit since I immediately got the same error code once reaching operating temp. I got a buddy coming by after the holidays that can help me check the injectors. We will see.
The First thing Acura says to do is to check for a clicking sound from the Injector that is causing the problem (cylinder 3). Do the best you can an see if you can hear a clicking sound from cylinder #3 and let me know what you find.
BTW - Automatic or Manual Trans. ?
BTW - Automatic or Manual Trans. ?
Its not obvious since faulty or inferior parts can produce the same problem youre trying to fix. Ive been fixing cars for 15 years and Honda is by far the most finicky when it comes to ignition components...
p.s. I am a mechanic also. I just hate getting a customers car they/brother/some cheap craigslist ad shop just did a tune up on and now it wont pass smog. Customer dosen't want to hear I wont touch the car unless I do the tune up over with OEM parts. I not going to spend hours trying to diag a car with crap parts.
Auto trans. I never said I bought cheap parts off craigslist. I bought them from Advance Auto Parts. I understand your points about OEM stuff but at the same time its a 1999 car with 215K. I would buy OEM stuff for it all day long if it was less than say 8 years old or if I knew that was what was really wrong with it. But I took a chance thinking I would solve the problem and replaced the distributor. I find it way to ironic that my "cheap" advance auto parts are just as defective for Cylinder #3 as the older parts it replaced. The only thing I didn't replace is the spark plugs (since they were only 4 months old). Maybe they are defective now after being used with the CEL so I will slap a new set of NGK in after the holidays. We will listen for that clicking injector sound and get back to you guys. Merry Christmas!
Auto trans. I never said I bought cheap parts off craigslist. I bought them from Advance Auto Parts. I understand your points about OEM stuff but at the same time its a 1999 car with 215K. I would buy OEM stuff for it all day long if it was less than say 8 years old or if I knew that was what was really wrong with it. But I took a chance thinking I would solve the problem and replaced the distributor. I find it way to ironic that my "cheap" advance auto parts are just as defective for Cylinder #3 as the older parts it replaced. The only thing I didn't replace is the spark plugs (since they were only 4 months old). Maybe they are defective now after being used with the CEL so I will slap a new set of NGK in after the holidays. We will listen for that clicking injector sound and get back to you guys. Merry Christmas!
hmm..could be. I heard that a side effect of burning oil is that it could clog the cat. how would I check that the cat is clogged? do I need to bring it into the shop for something like that?






