Starter Replacement Write-up
Thread Starter
Trial User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Chico, CA
Starter Replacement Write-up
I figure there's not too much info on getting the starter out on the CR-V, and the manual is little to no help neither. So I figure I'd throw in a couple pics and give a little info. I just did this the other day in my apartment complex parking lot. This CR-V is the 2003 model.
NOTE: This write-up is for replacing the starter from over the car. If you want to know how to get the starter out from under the car, click this link: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-cr-v-element-156/03-crv-need-advice-replacing-starter-3105685/
Don't forget to disconnect negative terminal from battery.
1. Remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover over the intake manifold.
Now can see your fuel rail and the electrical plugs for the fuel injectors. Also you now have access to the 2 nuts, and 3 bolts holding the intake manifold to the engine block.
2. At this point, you might as well remove the hood latch, because it going to be in the way.
3. At the top of the throttle body, you'll see 4 plugs. You'll need to disconnect those. The fourth plug is kinda hard to see, but it's blue and you can find it between the blue and black plug slightly above it.
There is also a grey plug, under the throttle body, that needs to be disconnected.
4. Remove the air hose between the throttle body and the air filter housing. You will have to loosen the air filter housing, to get the hose out. There is also an additional little hose that comes out the side of this hose. Un-clamp and separate from the engine block.
5. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold. It's held on with 4 small bolts. You will also have to disconnect the two small coolant hoses that are connected to it.
I kept the accelerator and cruise control cables on.
Set throttle body off to the side, on the air filter housing.
Have a drip pan or something ready for the coolant you will spill. You might as well let it drain out what it can because of the next step.
6. Separate the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Since the coolant should be a little bit drained, it shouldn't be a big deal.
To get to the upper radiator hose, remove the plastic clips and the battery hold-down bolt to remove the plastic cover running over the top of the radiator.
7. Remove battery, tray, and all.
8. Going back to the fuel rail, disconnect the injector plugs. Remove the ground, it's held in with a small bolt. Remove the bolt holding down the IMRC mount to the block.
And you can now push the 2 plastic tabs forward on the fuel rail wiring cover to remove the whole piece.
This will allow you to move the intake manifold over to the side later on.
The IMRC is the thing on the left side of the intake manifold. You do not have to unplug the black plug on top, however, there is another sensor under the the IMRC that needs to be unplugged.
9. Spray some PB Blaster on the intake manifold mounting bolts and nuts, and give it about 15 minutes.
After that, you can remove the mounting hardware.
10. Now you can attempt to move the intake manifold to the side. There is a wire attached on the bottom of the manifold. I just cut the zip tie holding the wire to it, I was starting to get tired of all the bs.
There are two air hoses that need to be disconnected, they are on the right side of the manifold, near the bottom.
If all goes well, you can move the whole thing off to the side.
You now have easy access to the starter.
I believe everyone can figure out the rest. Remove wiring from starter, unbolt starter, put new one in and wire it up.
Don't forget to plug everything back in so you don't get a check engine light.
And add coolant until it full again.
That's about it, don't know if I forgot something, took me more than half the day since I spent a few hours trying to get it from the bottom. Spent around $225 for new starter with core charge.
Hope this helps and good luck.
NOTE: This write-up is for replacing the starter from over the car. If you want to know how to get the starter out from under the car, click this link: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-cr-v-element-156/03-crv-need-advice-replacing-starter-3105685/
Don't forget to disconnect negative terminal from battery.
1. Remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover over the intake manifold.
Now can see your fuel rail and the electrical plugs for the fuel injectors. Also you now have access to the 2 nuts, and 3 bolts holding the intake manifold to the engine block.
2. At this point, you might as well remove the hood latch, because it going to be in the way.
3. At the top of the throttle body, you'll see 4 plugs. You'll need to disconnect those. The fourth plug is kinda hard to see, but it's blue and you can find it between the blue and black plug slightly above it.
There is also a grey plug, under the throttle body, that needs to be disconnected.
4. Remove the air hose between the throttle body and the air filter housing. You will have to loosen the air filter housing, to get the hose out. There is also an additional little hose that comes out the side of this hose. Un-clamp and separate from the engine block.
5. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold. It's held on with 4 small bolts. You will also have to disconnect the two small coolant hoses that are connected to it.
I kept the accelerator and cruise control cables on.
Set throttle body off to the side, on the air filter housing.
Have a drip pan or something ready for the coolant you will spill. You might as well let it drain out what it can because of the next step.
6. Separate the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Since the coolant should be a little bit drained, it shouldn't be a big deal.
To get to the upper radiator hose, remove the plastic clips and the battery hold-down bolt to remove the plastic cover running over the top of the radiator.
7. Remove battery, tray, and all.
8. Going back to the fuel rail, disconnect the injector plugs. Remove the ground, it's held in with a small bolt. Remove the bolt holding down the IMRC mount to the block.
And you can now push the 2 plastic tabs forward on the fuel rail wiring cover to remove the whole piece.
This will allow you to move the intake manifold over to the side later on.
The IMRC is the thing on the left side of the intake manifold. You do not have to unplug the black plug on top, however, there is another sensor under the the IMRC that needs to be unplugged.
9. Spray some PB Blaster on the intake manifold mounting bolts and nuts, and give it about 15 minutes.
After that, you can remove the mounting hardware.
10. Now you can attempt to move the intake manifold to the side. There is a wire attached on the bottom of the manifold. I just cut the zip tie holding the wire to it, I was starting to get tired of all the bs.
There are two air hoses that need to be disconnected, they are on the right side of the manifold, near the bottom.
If all goes well, you can move the whole thing off to the side.
You now have easy access to the starter.
I believe everyone can figure out the rest. Remove wiring from starter, unbolt starter, put new one in and wire it up.
Don't forget to plug everything back in so you don't get a check engine light.
And add coolant until it full again.
That's about it, don't know if I forgot something, took me more than half the day since I spent a few hours trying to get it from the bottom. Spent around $225 for new starter with core charge.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Last edited by Wasted Dragon; Nov 29, 2012 at 09:19 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post