I searched quite a few places on this common issue and I just want to make sure what I can do to prevent this so my tires keep traction and not silent spinning, or hopping.

The issue I have is the I have no front motor mount as the stock crossmember doesn't line up with the jdm b16a mounting spot.

So I have the rear and side motor mounts. I seen a thread of Tyson's saying he eliminated his by inserting rubber hoses in his front mount or the liquid rubber stuff from other people but would that work with only side and rears?

I also heard of buying a traction bar, but I feel the issue here is that I have no front mount so the engine is lifting the front end of the car up some. Not sure how a traction bar can prevent that.

Any suggestions? Any advice or prove me wrongs are appreicated

 

Get a solid rear mount insert from prothane or energy suspension, make sure all your suspension bushings are good, make sure you have good struts and springs, and practice launching.


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so stiffen your rear then.

 

i would suggest against filling the mounts with hard durameter rubber. get a front crossmember that facilitates the front engine mount. they don't call it the "torque mount" for nothing.

 

Well, right now I got h&r sport springs (1.5-1.9 inch drop) with tokico blues. I replaced the rta bushings recently with oem bushings and also clocked them. All other bushings are not shattered and look good but are of course old as the car most likely. Front suspension is the same with upper control arm camber kits, lca bushings and lower balljoints were replaced with oem and moog. Front and rear strut bars.

Upper control arm bushings may need replacement on front and rear, but no play on the tires. Everything is zero'd out besides rear camber. Steering wheel stiff and no play.

The only thing I can think is to cut the front crossmember engine mount bracket and reweld to exact spot needed, but not only that may not work but I wouldn't trust it either unless approved by someone who has done it.

Are there crossmembers sold for b16 swaps? I know engine alignments vary car to car so not sure if they would make one.

I can try the solid rear mount. The car doesn't do bad launching but you can't follow 2nd gear slamming it. you have to wait till it revs down to rev match the next gear as if you were reving higher to drop a gear or it'll spin the tires silently. Don't know about you all, but it takes forever for it to rev down with my b16, dunno if it's a vaccuum issue. It costs me a second and half between shifts.

Once I get the damn money, I'mma convert to hyrdo and obd1 and upgrade haha.

My fauly, totally went off topic. But yeah if i were to stiffen the rear that would make sense, but how much money we talking about and what kind of parts? I know you all gonna rape on the tokico blues haha

 

Not so much the blues by themselves, but the problems blues face when installed on a lowered car.

Highly suggest you get the front mount rather than only stiffening the other mounts. The other mounts will be taking more stress without it and can lead to fatiguing and broken parts.

Traction bar can help and some companies do offer a front mount.

 

dont know if this helps, but here is a picture of the traction bar mounted in my car...might give you a better idea how it works/helps with wheel hop.

 

Thanks for the info everyone. Probaboy will get the innovative traction bar eventually but the issue is how will I get the front mount installed with thee traction bar or oem crossmember? Also in getting a front motor mount would I be looking for a ef b series modified front motor mount or an integra?

Hoping I can be pointed to the right direction otherwise I can find out through research.

Thanks for the help!

 

We have HCP Engineering mounts. This kit came with 4 mounts for B16 swap. I got this kit back in 2000-2001. I am unsure if this kit is still available. It is worth looking for because it works pretty damn good. I had to open the bolt hole up a little on the front crossmember but it's all good. The way I install it is I put the mount on the trans with bolts in loose so I can move the mount a little while it bolted up. Then brimg up the crossmember line it up and stick the front mount bolt in. Then bolt up the crossmember. Damn good mount kit from HCP. I have not had replace one bushing in any of my mounts in 12 yrs.

 

well if you say you're going to get an innovative, then you should know that they make a front mount for their traction bar
http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=59140
http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=19140

 

i have run 3 mounts only on far more powerful engines than a b16, the side mounts are what support the engine, the front and rear mounts control engine movement (they are BOTH torque mounts). In eg/ek civics they ONLY use 3 mounts for h22's, i destroyed an HCP mount in mine (tore the metal) and replaced it with hasport mounts and never had an issue. In several accords we removed the front mount for space when running h22's and put an insert into the rear mount and ran for well over 100k miles without issues.
if you feel you NEED the front mount then by all means re-weld the bracket...

 

the tblues are the problem! ur going to need some more stiffer shocks i had same problem i used tblues and kybs and nothing so i went with koni yellows for affordability im not sure how stiff the springs u have are either but im sure they will do fine! i have skunk2 coil sleeves and my take off is 4g no wheel hop just go! good luck

 

i have a innovation trac bar for sale to if u want at it let me no ill let the thing go for 30 bucks its collecting dust im running stock front cross-member now for floor clearance! innovation mounts are good its what i have also!

 

ETD traction bar ftw, here!

You will not eliminate any wheel hop by replacing any motor mounts or adding additional motor mounts.

Wheel hop comes from lower control arm movement. Notice your LCAs are joined to your front crossmember by radius rods? Those radius rods have a bushing on each side of the crossmember. The bushings, whether stock or poly, will give and flex under hard launching which allows movement in the LCAs and causes wheel hop. Thats why traction bars use adjustable length radius rods with heim joints at each end to eliminate all back and forth movement.

Lastly, don't cheap out on your traction bar purchase! Your life, your car, and others around you on the road depend on it holding strong!