found parasitic draw but don't know which fuse it is (90 GS)
so on my 90 gs i found the parasitic draw coming from a 10 amp fuse on my engine bay fuse box. there is no sticker on it and i have looked online where the pics can be either ecu, hazard, or back-up. it's the one in the top right corner closest to the pass. side fender.
when i take out the fuse the door chime doesn't come on, but i can still start the car and the reverse lights still work, so i'm thinking that it's not the ecu or back-up light fuse. is there something i'm missing? ill check later for the hazards but maybe something is keeping that door chime on. that's what i'm trying to figure out. and also my seatbelts are in the closed position they don't move
when i take out the fuse the door chime doesn't come on, but i can still start the car and the reverse lights still work, so i'm thinking that it's not the ecu or back-up light fuse. is there something i'm missing? ill check later for the hazards but maybe something is keeping that door chime on. that's what i'm trying to figure out. and also my seatbelts are in the closed position they don't move
also the previous owner had an alarm on the car not sure if the brain is still connected under the dash and hooked into the hazard circuit. i can't find much info on this online. i also read somewhere that the automatic seatbelts are on the same hazard circuit. the door chime has me wondering too.
There are two (2) 10A fuses in the engine bay fuse box
One is in a cornerat the "end" of a row of fuses, [10, 20. 30, 30, 7.5] right next to the 50A light fuse, that 10A is the ECU fuse.
The other 10A fuse is on the other side of the two 50A fuses, kind of by itself, it is the hazard fuse.
The "back-up" fuse is at the other end of the row of fuses, it is the 7.5A fuse, also back-up does not mean back up, [reverse] lights, it is for back-up power, [memory] for the ECU/ECM and mayby the clock.
If you have other then the fuses listed, [replaced with bigger ones], replace them with the proper size, [amp] fuse.
What fuse are you pulling...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-93-INTEGR...-/150865073101 94
One is in a cornerat the "end" of a row of fuses, [10, 20. 30, 30, 7.5] right next to the 50A light fuse, that 10A is the ECU fuse.
The other 10A fuse is on the other side of the two 50A fuses, kind of by itself, it is the hazard fuse.
The "back-up" fuse is at the other end of the row of fuses, it is the 7.5A fuse, also back-up does not mean back up, [reverse] lights, it is for back-up power, [memory] for the ECU/ECM and mayby the clock.
If you have other then the fuses listed, [replaced with bigger ones], replace them with the proper size, [amp] fuse.
What fuse are you pulling...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-93-INTEGR...-/150865073101 94
yeah where the one 7.5 amp fuse is a 10. so i guess the "back-up" circuit is the culprit of the power draw. where do i go from there besides putting a 7.5 fuse back in that spot, and also does the door chime, turning off when taking out the fuse, indicate where my problem would be?
i looked up wiring diagrams on bbbind.com and found this: http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...comfusebox.png ...my fuse that is drawing the circuit is the #34 10amp fuse.
i also found this if it will lead me closer to my problem: http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...ingdiagram.png
Do not change the fuse, it would not help anyway, that fuse location on your car, [90GS] may well be a 10A, the one in the link I posted is from a 93 Integra and although the fuse boxes are the same, fuse sizes may well be diff.
Without testing, there is no way to know exactly where the problem is but if your chimes stop working when the fuse is pulled, the first thing I would check is the ICU, it controls the chimes and the ICU is a common problem on older Honda/Acura.
Do your intermittent wipers work properly, how about the rear window defog or the front side markers, all also controlled by the ICU.
Unplug the ICU and see if you still have the parasitic draw...
http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid...ansmission+car
It is mounted, [plugged into] to the back of the under dash fuse box, you must remove it off the back of the fuse box to compleatly disconnect it.
Without testing, there is no way to know exactly where the problem is but if your chimes stop working when the fuse is pulled, the first thing I would check is the ICU, it controls the chimes and the ICU is a common problem on older Honda/Acura.
Do your intermittent wipers work properly, how about the rear window defog or the front side markers, all also controlled by the ICU.
Unplug the ICU and see if you still have the parasitic draw...
http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid...ansmission+car
It is mounted, [plugged into] to the back of the under dash fuse box, you must remove it off the back of the fuse box to compleatly disconnect it.
Trending Topics
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 3
From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
You say the seat beats are stuck, Look into the passanger kick panel and see if the seat belts control box is plugged in or unplugged. If its plugged in. Unplug it and see if the draw stops.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 3
From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
We get alot of this now since the car is older. I had two models of my own that had this issues. And many cars come to us with this. On the ef models (91 civic) the issues is in each door. Now for the real kicker. The dealer should warranty this as its suppose to be cover for the life of the car. Dot. Some dealers duck it. Some don't.
thanks for the input. i'll get to it in the daytime. i was thinking it had something to do with the seatbelts since i heard they on the same circuit. i'll check into the icu as well. i hate trouble shooting electrical problems.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 3
From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Its hard to find that unit working. I mostly move the seat belt in the driving position and unplug it so it does not move.
thanks for the help guys. so i found the draw. when i unplugged the seatbelt warning module, the draw went to 0.02, from about 16 amps. my seatbelts don't work anyways so i just unplugged it like you said. thanks again.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 3
From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Glad to be of help. But are you sure you were pulling 16 amps! Re check the setting on your dvm, that is very high!
yeah i had my multimeter at 10amps. when i connected it it shot up to 16.7 something and after i unplugged the seatbelt unit it went down to 0.02. could also be my meter, sometimes it would register the draw from 2.00 - 3.00 not sure maybe it wasn't connected good or i have a fried multimeter. also probably explains why it killed a new battery in a matter of days.
Last edited by deeboi; Nov 29, 2012 at 01:23 AM.
that seatbelt unit must have been drawing a lot of current. i don't know why my meter would measure 16 and then go all the way down to .02
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
40+MPG
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
3
May 7, 2008 07:52 PM
Frost7177
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
4
Jul 6, 2007 03:44 PM



