A little back ground...

1998 DB8 sedan. Purchased as a shell. Swapped out tan interior for full black interior from auto 4 door. Switched cluster harnesses. Swapped steering column from auto to the 5 speed car. Installed Gsr swap from OBD2 car. Distributor harness was hacked so went to the salvage yard and got an OBD1 distributor harness and swapped it in. I am running a chipped P28 ECU due to using a blox manifold.

Here is the problem, no check engine lights and all the motor will do is crank over. I get no spark from the distributor. I have done the advanced trouble shooting outlined on team-integra. The only thing that didnt really check out was when I checked the ignitor It lights up solid rather than flashing.

I feel like I am possibly missing something stupid. We put another swap in the auto car and it had the same issue. Turned out you needed to install a auto ignition harness to power the other wires. I tried swapping over to a 5 speed ignition harness and with no new results. I am at my wits end I just want to drive the damn car and was not wanting to buy a new distributor but if that is what it takes I will. Just didnt want to buy it and have the same results.

Thanks

 

What do you mean, "I have done the advanced trouble shooting outlined on team-integra" what exactly have you done?

How about the basic troubleshooting, have you checked for power to the distributor assembly, [black/yellow] and power on IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM, all must have power when ign. switch is in BOTH the run and start positions.

You say you do not have spark, how about fuel, does the fuel pump prime when you turn the ign. switch on? 94

 

trouble shooting procedure listed in this article....

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html

I did not test for power in the start position. But presented power at the distributor at black w/yellow wire.

Fuel is there, injectors clicking, pulled plugs all wet with fuel. When you test for spark output from distributor there is no spark when held to chassis ground.
Fuel pump primes and main relay functions as it should.

 

I had a similar problem but my solution may not be your solution.

Inspect and clean EVERYTHING under that cap. Make sure the rotor is actually spinning by doing a couple of quick cranks. Make sure all the metal is clean and not corroded, including the 4 points on the inside of the cap.

I cleaned my rotor, my cap, sanded the terminal wires, and took a wire brush to those tiny terminal screws. That fixed my problem.

This seems to match the 'advance troubleshooting' from team-integra, but straight from the manual:

1.) Remvove the cap, rotor, and leak cover.
2.) Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU wires from the ICM.
3.) Turn the ignition switch to ON. Check for voltage between BLK/YEL wire and ground. There should be battery voltage. If no voltage check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.
4.) With the ignition still ON, check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check Ignition Coil, and check the WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM.
5.) Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6.) Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.

If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.

 

What n0thin_2z_here said and did you check for power on IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM?

Also. when trying to start the engine, does the tach move at all, if not, it is a sign of the ICM being bad, assuming continuity of blue tach lead. 94

 

I ran a wire straight from the distributor to the driverside shock tower for RPM signal. The tach doesn not move while cranking. I will have to trouble shoot the rest when I get back out to the car.

 

No power to those two spots in the start position. New distributor installed same results. I still feel there is something at the column that is backwards or is not powering something up.

 

No power to what two spots?

Do you mean IGP1&2?

If so, power for IGP1&2 is supplied by the injector power relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay.

To confirm, test for power at the injectors, [lead that is the same color at all injectors] when cranking to start. 94

 

I have power at the injectors when the key is on but no power when in the crank position. Also, there is no power at ign1 or ign2 when the key is in the crank position. However, the fuel pump primes as it should. Any ideas?

EDIT: Swapped main relay from a known running car and no new results. Does anyone know if the distribution of power is any different between an auto and 5 speed column?

 

Your ign. switch is bad...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Try this, turn ign. switch on and do a bypass jump...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump

ign. output from ign. is not working in the start position, a bypass jump eliminates that position as ign switch does not need to bre turned to start when doing a bypass jump. 94

 

The plot thickens....

Jumped white constant 12 volts to black/yellow. Shows no power at Ign1 or ign2 when jumped. Turn key on, power at both spots but not in crank.

I probed the main relay box just to make sure i had power there. When I did, for whatever reason the small green wire flashes 12 volts like morris code! WTF?!?!

 

Do you mean, [main relay box] the PGM-FI Main Relay, is so there is no "small green wire" however there are two (2) yellow/green leads, one is the injector relays output, will stay hot, [12V+] as long as ign. switch is on, the other is the fuel pump relays out put, it will stay hot for no more the 3sec. each time the ign. switch is turned on to the run position, [not all the way to start position] it will be hot as long as fuel pump is priming.

Did you try what I suggested, turn ign. on and do a bypass jump? 94

 

I think your wrong on this one...I am referring to the top right and wire in the pic.



And yes I double checked what I did and I have 12 volts jumped from solid white wire to black/yellow. The odd part is that now that I jumped the power over when you probe the wire at the ignition it does the same "morris code" beeping(for power) like that green wire does but ONLY does it in the crank position. Its not a solid 12 volts like when you just turn the key to the ignition position.

 

What is the MM&Y of the car?

That does not match any wiring diagrams I have, is it not a 98 Integra?

When I said "bypass jump" I mean supply power directly to the starter motor solenoid as in the link I posted, this will take the start position of the ign. switch out of the circuit, you will bypass it. 94

 

1998 integra 4 door GSR. I have not done the complete bypass yet but will shortly.

 

ok!! check this out! i was doing the starter check and it came out fine. When i was at the column checking for power at the ignition switch i touched the black/white wire to the white/black wire and the ****** started trying to start! I did it a couple of more times and the it started right up!! Do I need switch places with these wires at the fuse block or something??