as title says, looking for the best cam setup for a low kms b16a with jdm pct ctr pistons

i'm back and forth on my opinion of using the skunk2 stage 1 tuner cams (already bought cuz was planning to keep bottom end stock originally)
or go get a set of skunk2 stage 2 pro series cams

i wanna keep the stage 1's to keep it simple, that was the plan from start, build the head a bit and throw it on the stock bottom end. now...... getting carried away here, wanted to bump the compression up while i have the motor all apart.
now, like i said, while im at it, i wanna do this once and get the best out of it. but at the same time, reliability is a key. so do i wanna do the stage 2's now that i have sufficient compression to do so, but would it be the right move????


i have a jdm ef9, stock motor in the car, but the motor im building is on the side so i can take my time collecting all my bad *** parts and do it proper. while the car is mobile
i dyno'd the car stock on a basemap and ran 145whp (cheated and cut the ac/ps) and as is the cars a blast to drive. now i wanna get the most out of a b16 reliably
i put 22,000 kms on the car this past summer, im planning on toning it down to non daily/more weekend-ish car. but still drive it as a dd from time to time
i autocross few times a year
aswell do quarter mile rips time to time



here is my mod list
(from my build on a local forum)

jdm 1989 honda civic si-R
polar white

j's racing spoiler
j's replica front lip
skunk2 pro series adjustable upper control arms
skunk2 rear lca's
skunk2 rear camber kit
ktuned front traction bar with solid engine brace
tenabe medallion exhaust
15x7 +35 work cr kai wheels
cooper zeon zpt 195/50r15 tires
project mu front brake pads
bwr purple lugnuts
oem honda window visors
oem jdm itr shift boot
kenwood rear speaker pods
pioneer cd player
spoon sports front strut bar
spoon sports rear strut bar
spoon sports oil cap
spoon sports rad cap
spoon sport brake resevoir socks
spoon sports duricon shift ****
jdm honda primo front windsheild banner





first gen b16a
lsd 4.4 final drive cable clutch transmission
converted obd1
chipped/tuned Po6 on chrome by danny/overboost


skunk2 tuner valve springs
new oem intake valve seals
new oem exhaust valve seals
new oem intake timingbelt side cam seal
new oem exhaust timingbelt side cam seal
skunk2 billet cam seal plug
skunk2 stage 1 tuner cams
port+polish, milled .005 and reseated by d-swift

skunk2 pro series intake manifold ported+polished (both ends) by d-swift
skunk2 pro series 68mm throtlebody
hondata intake gasket
arp head studs
arp flywheel bolts
arp pressureplate bolts
arp connecting rod bolts
blox tps sensor
blox intake manifold studs
blox exhaust manifold studs
mr gasket's exhaust gasket
kevlar header wrap
b&m fuel pressure regulator
b&m fuel pressure guage
walbro fuel pump and sock
spoon sports thermostat and gasket
spoon sports thermo fan switch
spoon sports magnetic oil drain plug
spoon sports magnetic transmission plug
spoon sports spark plug wires
spoon sports carbon kevlar sparkplug cover
toda racing 8lb flywheel
toda racing adjustable cam gears
toda racing timing belt
toda racing headgasket
hamp synergy oil filter
new oem jdm ctr crank pulley and belt
new oem ctr pistons
new oem ctr wristpins
new oem ctr piston ring set
innovative rhd ef9 motor mounts

may have missed some stuff lol

need:
clutch
water pump
tensioner
valve cover gasket
oilpan gasket
crankseal
axle seals
injector seals
fuel rail
fuel filter
pcv valve
header (sold mine cuz i didnt like the ground clearance)
hondata s300
considering doing a jdm integra type-r 4.75 final drive and mainshaft

based on the information i've given you
general use of the car and mods

whats going to be the best cam for this motor
weighing reliability and power gains into the factor?

any input negative or positive, would like to hear it
im buying a house soon, so the plan is to do this build right once so i can enjoy the car while i pay off butt loads of debt lol

thanks
sincerly,

devon d
aka just-ef-it

 

Your 2 cam choices are s2s1 or s2p2? ?? Thats like there smallest cam and there biggest lol. Why not tuner series stage 2???? Or blox type b or buddy club 2 or 3's? I think all would do fine in your motor. But tuner stage 1 is slightly better than 01 itr cams and pro2s are a little too big for your 1.6

 

try toda B or JUN type 2, much better powerband

s2s2, jun3 works well in the higher rpms though

 

i bought the tuner stage 1's due to the fact they were a bit more aggressive than the itr, thats was going to be on a stock block. but now that im going the higher compression route ive seen lots of mixed opinions of people sayin the stage 2 pro series was the cam of choice, thats why im asking if anyone would agree to jump on those cams

 

another thing, i hear some people say that the stage 2 pro is tioo big like you said
but with and expected 11.5:1 compression?????

i basically just wanna run a popular set up that has proven to do well

has anyone run the toda or jun cams with this kind of set up?

 

i would use skunk 2 stage 2 tuner series or skunk 2 pro stage 1
an dont forget the matchin valvetrain
im having very nice results with the pro 1 currently at 190 whp also a b16 with ctr pistons.
its hard to beat the torque of the pro1 series below vtec.
pro 2 are too big for the small b16.
heres my b16 build
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/aarons-190whp-b16a-build-3074210/

 

Whats your budget.

 

aaronej - thats the kinda info i was looking for, thank you!

budget is what ever it has to be, when i pull the car out in the spring, still has a motor in it, so i got all winter plus some time lol

aslong as i can get more reliable performance out of it. dont think i would spend anymore than i have to on cams tho. like i wont go out of my way and buy new toda or jun cams when i could be happy with skunk2's. unless they were a good deal. and i say new cuz i have a hard time trusting used cams unless i knew the history behind them.

 

just found out that the pro stage 1 cams need
an OEM Honda lost motion assembly with this part numer 14820-PCB-305

whats the scoop with that?

how do i install them? lol

....oh dear lol

 

Well, now there are a couple/few routes you can go with that. That particular part number, people don't like to get them because of the cost. Personally, for piece of mind, I went with them for my build. But, some people go with the H series LMA with a .040" shim I believe. It's been known to work, but to each his own I guess.

 

i would rather go with the one without the shim i think, the one that uses the shim is 14820-PCB-303 i think
and oem all the way for me cuz im a painter for a honda dealership so i imagine i can get them just over cost lol

 

just get the new ones without the shim work perferkt and they are cheap.
i would also talk to derek ALLM0T0R he can provide u with some very good custom cams.

 

he had already messaged me, sent me a few links, but honestly, i havent done enough motors/trial and error to even know where to start or tweak cam profiles so i'll go with a cam that works.

 

I profile the cam - Not you. You can search around a bit, you'll find I have a LOT of customers who run my camshafts with great success and also alot of power..
Someone who's particularly around your setup would be a guy on here , username "SoloDC" you can search threads by user under search and see some of his results.

 

wow, bs, my cost at work for those lma's are 54$ each, lists at 72, where as i can get them out of the states (im in canada) for like 27$ each

 

DD Tech, Toda A, BC3+, S2S1

 

forgot to mention, bought the skunk2 stage 1 pro series today

cam search over, the lma's are apparently easy to install, figured that out easy, but getting them for a decent price is the new battle lol

 

thanks for the input guys!!!! .... i'll probably be back tho lol