Age old question...which intake manifold?
ok so it's winter time and I'm in the middle of tear down and upgrade. I have a 85x89mm b series with an endyn head and skunk2 pro 1's with the speed factory rocker lock lol. I will be running a forward facing 42r next year. My question is which intake manifold would be be best choice for $1000 and below. I have a victor x but I don't feel like cutting it open and porting and polishing it. Yes I know people have gone sub 10's with it. I just want to put on a mani and go I don't want to do all that work lol so what's my best bet? Gato performance/Magnus/full race/afi/golden eagle???
Last edited by ekcoupeh22; Nov 16, 2012 at 07:35 PM.
I went low low 9's on a JG unported. Went the exact same ET with a BMC race.. I wish that I kept the JG. The BMC has been welded 4 or 5 times.
Ricky Silva went 8.8 went my old JG..
Ricky Silva went 8.8 went my old JG..
forward facing 42R's are the new budget builds? lol, jk.
Ive been looking for a reason to upgrade ours, but i dont see spending that kinda money when there are other parts of our setup that could use it.
Ive been looking for a reason to upgrade ours, but i dont see spending that kinda money when there are other parts of our setup that could use it.
Lol I never said budget build lol someone else said that...I just don't want to spend more than a $1000 cause I don't think a manifold should even cost that much. Some manifold builders are out of their damn minds when they set prices (not going to name names but we all know lol)
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My old sheet metal bmc intake was cracking all to hell and back. I discontinued that hot mess and had moved on to different design.
No intake will ever "give" you more power, they will only free up power assuming the rest of the motor is built to utilize it.
Miller use to run 8.30's on a Wilson, he now runs 8.009 on BMC and might just be cracking 7's **** here in a little while.
Unfortunately for you guys though, that boat has sailed and I'm out of the game
I do have someone who plans on pickup up my intakes from me though so if you want that performance you will have to get with him at the turn of next year. I'll still try and do design work and shoot him over new cads/cfd's and let him take care of getting new projects running.
No intake will ever "give" you more power, they will only free up power assuming the rest of the motor is built to utilize it.
Miller use to run 8.30's on a Wilson, he now runs 8.009 on BMC and might just be cracking 7's **** here in a little while.
Unfortunately for you guys though, that boat has sailed and I'm out of the game

I do have someone who plans on pickup up my intakes from me though so if you want that performance you will have to get with him at the turn of next year. I'll still try and do design work and shoot him over new cads/cfd's and let him take care of getting new projects running.
In my experience
If you want reliable. Keep things stock.
If you want cutting edge performance, expect things to fug up and break ALL the time. Regardless of the brand or who is endorsing/backing/sponsored by it etc.
Top level axles break, sleeved blocks break, top manufacture rods break, $4k turbos break. Why is it such a bad thing that an intake breaks? If you want to have a race car, expect any and EVERYthing to break on it. If you cant handle the idea of a $10k motor going all to bits and pieces then look up http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/
If you want reliable. Keep things stock.
If you want cutting edge performance, expect things to fug up and break ALL the time. Regardless of the brand or who is endorsing/backing/sponsored by it etc.
Top level axles break, sleeved blocks break, top manufacture rods break, $4k turbos break. Why is it such a bad thing that an intake breaks? If you want to have a race car, expect any and EVERYthing to break on it. If you cant handle the idea of a $10k motor going all to bits and pieces then look up http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/
In my experience
If you want reliable. Keep things stock.
If you want cutting edge performance, expect things to fug up and break ALL the time. Regardless of the brand or who is endorsing/backing/sponsored by it etc.
Top level axles break, sleeved blocks break, top manufacture rods break, $4k turbos break. Why is it such a bad thing that an intake breaks? If you want to have a race car, expect any and EVERYthing to break on it. If you cant handle the idea of a $10k motor going all to bits and pieces then look up http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/
If you want reliable. Keep things stock.
If you want cutting edge performance, expect things to fug up and break ALL the time. Regardless of the brand or who is endorsing/backing/sponsored by it etc.
Top level axles break, sleeved blocks break, top manufacture rods break, $4k turbos break. Why is it such a bad thing that an intake breaks? If you want to have a race car, expect any and EVERYthing to break on it. If you cant handle the idea of a $10k motor going all to bits and pieces then look up http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/
Well if that's how you think than so be it.
I'm not trying to justify anything here.
If you can't see the bigger picture than ohh well.
**** breaks, only thing you can do is fix it. Move onto someone else's part by all means, it won't hurt my feelings at all
I and the majority of my following strive for first place and that comes with alot of bumps and bruises along the way to get there.
Hell I remember a big beautiful cast by a million dollar company intake just a while back on a big name car breaking all to hell and back? That stuff got swept under the rug really quick though....
before I discontinued my old plenum we did a pressure test and I even videoed it.
I believe the test was to 50psi, I don't remember and don't feel like finding the video and watching it. At the full pressure we put a straight edge on the largest part of the plenum sidewall, it was ballooned close to an 1/8"
This was on 6061 T6 aluminum that was .1875wall thick (3/16") The manifold was fully welded inside and out. Do you know the sort of pressure it takes to bend that aluminum? How do you not call that trq being applied?
I'm not trying to justify anything here.
If you can't see the bigger picture than ohh well.
**** breaks, only thing you can do is fix it. Move onto someone else's part by all means, it won't hurt my feelings at all
I and the majority of my following strive for first place and that comes with alot of bumps and bruises along the way to get there. Hell I remember a big beautiful cast by a million dollar company intake just a while back on a big name car breaking all to hell and back? That stuff got swept under the rug really quick though....
before I discontinued my old plenum we did a pressure test and I even videoed it.
I believe the test was to 50psi, I don't remember and don't feel like finding the video and watching it. At the full pressure we put a straight edge on the largest part of the plenum sidewall, it was ballooned close to an 1/8"
This was on 6061 T6 aluminum that was .1875wall thick (3/16") The manifold was fully welded inside and out. Do you know the sort of pressure it takes to bend that aluminum? How do you not call that trq being applied?
Ok I don't really care about this reliability I know when your trying to throw 1000hp into a 2.1L 4 cyl ***** going to break .. I want to know what is going to be the best manifold for my setup for under $1000
well you can't even get one of mine unless its used cause I'm out of the game for a while (joined the army)
I'd say anything that is around 5liters in volume and has around a 6" long primary an 90mm tb would work perfect for your goals.
No label or brand will make any difference, its all a numbers game. Your setup will call for those numbers above, now go out and find who can match them.
Gato, modified Golden Eagle (see if they can do custom?), Magnus, etc will all fit the bill I'm sure.
I'd say anything that is around 5liters in volume and has around a 6" long primary an 90mm tb would work perfect for your goals.
No label or brand will make any difference, its all a numbers game. Your setup will call for those numbers above, now go out and find who can match them.
Gato, modified Golden Eagle (see if they can do custom?), Magnus, etc will all fit the bill I'm sure.
golden eagle 6" plenum????
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater
a lot of people make big power on jg intake manifolds too though
Here is a good thread about intake manifolds
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...old+discussion
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater
a lot of people make big power on jg intake manifolds too though
Here is a good thread about intake manifolds
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...old+discussion
that would work, I didn't know they made that. Must be upping the ante 
The only thing I don't like about the majority of the intakes out there is that 90% of them fail to match the port entrance angle of the head.
The port in the head is not tangent to the head flange mounting surface, it is roughly 15*
Almost everyone uses a straight cut head flange and that mounts to the head so this is a forced angle entrance, air doesn't really like to bend any more than about 7* at a time, any more than this causes excess added turbulence and therefore a large reduction in both velocity and cfm in the place you need it least (right by the port!)
Try to find someone who uses a proper cut head flange with the port entrance angle that matches the port itself. You can have some variance because your not going to get perfect without spending a arm and a leg, but a straight cut flange will hinder performance on a noticeable level....
You can make power on a jg no problem, it takes alot of work to make it do as much as another manifold though.
For instance, a simple bolt on swap from a edelbrock to my older design 3L street sheet metal plenum yielded a big power improvement over the entire powerband. This is due to the simple fact that the cfm flow of mine is greater than the latter. Now if you were to really port the hell out of the jg (not just match to flange, but port the entire runner up to the v stack) then you will get this cfm back and it would make identical powerband because the primary length and plenum volume were the same... With a bit of fab work you can even increase the plenum volume to whatever you need for your engine (I suggest 3x engine size for 1000+hp applications or applications running in excess of 12k rpm all motor) and then it would perform just as well as a custom built manifold (at this point its a custom mani itself though and hardly resembles a jg anymore lol)

The only thing I don't like about the majority of the intakes out there is that 90% of them fail to match the port entrance angle of the head.
The port in the head is not tangent to the head flange mounting surface, it is roughly 15*
Almost everyone uses a straight cut head flange and that mounts to the head so this is a forced angle entrance, air doesn't really like to bend any more than about 7* at a time, any more than this causes excess added turbulence and therefore a large reduction in both velocity and cfm in the place you need it least (right by the port!)
Try to find someone who uses a proper cut head flange with the port entrance angle that matches the port itself. You can have some variance because your not going to get perfect without spending a arm and a leg, but a straight cut flange will hinder performance on a noticeable level....
You can make power on a jg no problem, it takes alot of work to make it do as much as another manifold though.
For instance, a simple bolt on swap from a edelbrock to my older design 3L street sheet metal plenum yielded a big power improvement over the entire powerband. This is due to the simple fact that the cfm flow of mine is greater than the latter. Now if you were to really port the hell out of the jg (not just match to flange, but port the entire runner up to the v stack) then you will get this cfm back and it would make identical powerband because the primary length and plenum volume were the same... With a bit of fab work you can even increase the plenum volume to whatever you need for your engine (I suggest 3x engine size for 1000+hp applications or applications running in excess of 12k rpm all motor) and then it would perform just as well as a custom built manifold (at this point its a custom mani itself though and hardly resembles a jg anymore lol)
Ill have to check into that golden eagle one that looks like it's good James thanks for the advice it's nice to talk with someone who knows about what I'm asking...I really don't feel like doing all that work to the victor x that's why I want to bolt on and pretty much go! I'm going to so more research and talk to miller and see what would be the best option fir me
Yes. We went 8.87@173 with stock unported JG. Then we went 8.87@176 on a JG manifold ported by Headway performance.
I'm in the process of looking for intake manifold myself. I've been doing some testing for general knowledge on my modded ITBS and they seem to be working well, still too small for my motor, but i believe that they would be better suited for a worked 1.8 or mild, mild 2.0. In anycase what are some companies out there that do good, affordable intake manifolds?
I have tested 2 BMC's one vs a stock JG and another vs a Golden Eagle. Guess what? ZERO HP gained. ZERO ET gained.
Mine I bought used.. The other one was made for the car... These are real world results not some smoke and mirror BS.....
Two cars that are VERY consistent.
Next year I'll build my own intake plenum not to try to make power but to be more reliable then what I have now.
Mine I bought used.. The other one was made for the car... These are real world results not some smoke and mirror BS.....
Two cars that are VERY consistent.
Next year I'll build my own intake plenum not to try to make power but to be more reliable then what I have now.
Goes to show your head work isn't as good as you think it is.
Doesn't matter if you have a 300+ cfm flowing intake, if your head only flows 225 cfm you will only ever flow 225cfm. In fact higher cfm in the intake track and lower cfm of the head can and will result in power loss due to unnecessary velocity drop through the intake track. Also note that if your exhaust track has too much back pressure, all the cfm in the world on the intake track will never make a difference.
Feel free to build your own though, maybe with some hands on experience you will come to understand how it all works.
Doesn't matter if you have a 300+ cfm flowing intake, if your head only flows 225 cfm you will only ever flow 225cfm. In fact higher cfm in the intake track and lower cfm of the head can and will result in power loss due to unnecessary velocity drop through the intake track. Also note that if your exhaust track has too much back pressure, all the cfm in the world on the intake track will never make a difference.
Feel free to build your own though, maybe with some hands on experience you will come to understand how it all works.
Goes to show your head work isn't as good as you think it is.
Doesn't matter if you have a 300+ cfm flowing intake, if your head only flows 225 cfm you will only ever flow 225cfm. In fact higher cfm in the intake track and lower cfm of the head can and will result in power loss due to unnecessary velocity drop through the intake track. Also note that if your exhaust track has too much back pressure, all the cfm in the world on the intake track will never make a difference.
Feel free to build your own though, maybe with some hands on experience you will come to understand how it all works.
Doesn't matter if you have a 300+ cfm flowing intake, if your head only flows 225 cfm you will only ever flow 225cfm. In fact higher cfm in the intake track and lower cfm of the head can and will result in power loss due to unnecessary velocity drop through the intake track. Also note that if your exhaust track has too much back pressure, all the cfm in the world on the intake track will never make a difference.
Feel free to build your own though, maybe with some hands on experience you will come to understand how it all works.
Now what you got?
This isnt rocket science...



