I'm setting up the brakes on my drag car now.
Going with a Wilwood booster less master and a staging brake.
My question is how are guys plumbing it? Fronts only on the pedal and rears on the staging brake or all 4 on the pedal with the prop valve and run the staging brake inline?
Or any other configuration I haven't thought of?

Car is a 2000lb nitrous b series Ef hatch. I'm guessing low 10 sec et at best, oem calipers and rotors. It's got stock brake system now I just wanna clean it up some.

 

I would run the fronts off the pedal by running a line off the master to a "T" and then run a line off the "T" to each front caliper.

I would use the back brakes for staging only. You will be fine with stock calipers and rotors, but I would invest in some nice pads (Hawk HPS/HP+)

 

Man, from your previous thread, aren't you running 14's? Looking for 13's? Stock brakes should be fine.

 

Miller was running stock on his hatch...

 

Possibly a really old thread? My car this season was 13.0 on motor before I got it dialed in, then I sprayed it and went 11.2 for a handful of passes.

 

I have been thinking about this too. Trying to talk myself into making the leap to no rear brakes on the pedal. Unless there is a way to have both. My e-brake holds solid now, but holding the button and pushing the handle down seems like a waste of time. It would be nice to just let go of a handle.

 

I have had the oem brake set up on my ek with a "drift button" type on the e brake handle. Done that so I don't have to worry about pushing the button. You can do that by removing the spring in your e brake handle, but have to have something that can pull the button up when you want the e brake to engage.

On my eg I went with willwood single piston calipers from FastBrakes with a willwood master routed to front brakes only. The rear are drum brakes routed hydraulically to the stage brake via a "T".

Both have worked good for me, now its just a matter or personal preference.

Stefan

 

I'm going this route because the car got stripped down for paint bodywork and roll cage, and factory configuration is a pain when making new lines.
I like how clean and simple it is with separate front/rears no proportion valve. And all my old components were rusted up and could use replacement.

 

When I raced my EF...i just put a dime in the hole for the button on the e-brake. So when it was time to launch all I did was release the handle. Pop out the dime and button was back to normal.

 

Lol. I thought about pushing the button all the way down, drill a hole through the handle and button and then putting a pin in it for racing, pull it out for parking.

 

Sorry, I had the wrong user, haha.

 

Haha no worries.

Anyway I plan to switch up to the Wilwood calipers and light weight rotors all around some day. This car is essentially a track only car and goes from a trailer to the garage and back so I don't worry about ebrake much.

 

You can remove the botton from the e-brake handle that way you can just let it go. Now you will need to make a prop to hold up the e-brake when in the pits or when the e-brake need to stay on.

 

Fronts on Pedal. Rears on Staging Brake. No E-brake.

 

Whats the benefit of no rear brakes anyway? Why not just leave them alone, and do a button trick?

 

How much weight savings is it even if any?

 

It's for safety if your going down the track at 140mph+ and you tap the brakes with skinnys on the back that tire will lock up and put you into the wall no questions asked

 

Duely noted! Very good point. Didn't even think of that!

 

i didnt think of that either... Now I am re-thinking my setup...

 

I've only gone 140 but I've never had that issue. Never even felt squirrelly.

 

Fronts only

 

With skinnys? You are lucky my friend lol

 

My car gets pretty wild at only 125. With street tires on the rear even. This is partly why I'm redoing the suspension as well as brakes. It weighs less than 2000lbs and has the blox drag coilovers 18k spring rate in rear, it's way too stiff for the car.
I'm gonna replace all the bushings, front upper control arms, so I can get it aligned better, and swap out the rear springs with something just a bit softer.

 

I also run skinnies and use the stock Crx hf brakes with nothing done to them other than the e brake button mod so it can't lock in the up position unless I pull the button out. So I still have a functional parking brake for when the car is on the trailer. It never sees the streets and doesn't trap higher than 130. Its worked great for years.

 

I have a Tilton Master no booster of course, gsr spindles with civic DX front brakes. The rear is just stock drums on a staging brake. I stop at 173mph no issues with no chute, however at tracks with a shorter braking distance I do pull my chute. Hope that helps.