Guys, What are your secret to hit 1.5xx @60ft?

- Good balancing: 70/30?
- Traction Bar :
- D2 Drag Coilover?
- Bushes and arms?
- M&H or M/T tires 24,5'' or 26''

No need Front strut Tower bar or Sways bars

Thank you for your help and set up

 

Cornel scale, traction control etc......

 

Some clutch stuff also helps!

 

Traction bars
At least energy suspension quality bushings
Corner balance
Alignment
24.5x9.5x13 on a 13x10 wheel

That has yielded many 1.5 60's for us

 

Good quality spherical bearings are a good idea. Nearly all of my customers have run 1.5 60' times with one at 1.48 and another at 1.51 first time out with no traction bars. But as with anything, bolting on parts alone won't get you there obviously. I would stay stock before I ran ES or Chinese crap. But to each his own.

 

chrisb, are you saying yall just run the bearing conversion and no traction bars???

 

I'm sure there is some correlation of 1/4 mile time and 60' time. I can't imagine any 14 second cars are hitting 1.5 60's. What kind of times do you have to be running to have 1.5 seconds as a goal?

I have always been a street racer and just recently had my first trip to the track on slicks. I built an EF hatch with a turbo vitara D. Very first run was 12.5 @ 107 with a 1.7 60' on 23" M&H slicks. This was a low boost test since the car hadn't been driven at all other than a quick and dirty street tune. My traction bar broke so I didn't get to work on technique or start cranking boost. So, I guess my question is, at that power level, is there anything to improve in the 60'? If there is, then ill work on that before adding more power.

 

This is a pretty vague statement... Would you mind explaining what "Some clutch stuff" is?

 

Driven rear wheels help the most.

 

You dont need traction bars to get 1.5's, its a proven thing. Yes they apparently help a bit but are not completely necessary.

Ive pulled 1.58 60's on my 92 SE-R, no traction bars, ES bushings on the control arms, good alignment, 24.5X9X13 mt's set to 6.5 psi cold, dialed in 2 step launch control, preload like hell, and ksport street spec coilovers preloaded in the rear, full stiff on the dampening.

Thats about it, its a mater of dialing in the car and what works best.

And yeah it would be hard for a 14 second car to pull 1.5 60's. lol. 1.7-1.8's are typical in that power range. It still takes a good chunk of hp to get 1.5 60's. Id say anything with 450whp turbocharged and 250whp n/a has the ability to pull 1.5 60's

 

I'm damn happy then at 270-ish whp to hit 1.7's. it felt like a really solid pull, but didn't have anything to compare it to since I have always street races on street tires. Planning to go back soon in the 370-400whp range and see how close I can get to 10's.

 

My car is 96 EK hatch 63/37 balance and weighs 2460.

Stock bushings
Avid traction bars
Skunk 2 pro s 2 front 8k rear 18k
M&H 25/8.7/13 rim 13X10

I was stuck doing high 1.6's for years. Things I changed to get 1.5's

Old way of launching the car.
Rpm 7000
Boost 6/7psi.
Tire psi. 5 3/4 (before burn out)
Best 60ft doing this was 1.648

New way.
Rpm 7900
Boost 0/1psi
Tire psi 6 5/8 (before burn out)
Beat 60ft 1.544 worst 1.574 Out of the 9 passes I made this way before the end of our year!

 

Sorry for late reply. Yes customer Chris Michaud aka tepid1 does not run traction bars on his DC Teg and has run back to back 1.51 60' times first time out testing. No suspension tuning done on that car yet. A well known customer of mine in AZ is going to be doing some testing soon without traction bars. In the end if you can cut better times with traction bars then you should go that route. But the axial load rating for the bearings I use are easily up to the task. The NHBB bearings used in my Outlaw Series compliance bearings have an axial load rating of 14,025 lbs each. The LCA inner pivot bearings are rated at 7,080 lbs of ultimate static axial load each. That is over 42,000 lbs of axial load rating for all four front LCA bearings.

P.S. Just talking about the DC/EG chassis here. On front radius rod cars like EF/DA/BB4/BB6 etc I think replacing the OEM radius rod setup with a traction bar using high quality rod ends is a no brainer.

 

I have a clutchmasters flow control valve which slows down the engagement. Differant valves control the disengagement slower or faster depends how well track is prepped.....i.e. if MIR track, you want your clutch slipping as much as possible to hook, (in first gear only) but not before you kill it (metalic).....If you had a tilton carbon/carbon then it can slip alot more and stay together....... I been doing 1.46-1.49's consistantly....yes on 26" tire but I'm going to 24.5s so ill dial in my 60ft again. Good luck i hope you heard what you wanted....


Anybody can rebuttel or contradict my statements.

 

1.53 at WCF. Stock trans, stock axles, open diff. Full race traction bar, all new bushings in the front suspension, 24.5x9 on a 9in wheel rim screwed, aligned by eye, no corner balance. NLR AMS 1000 for boost control. Suspension is koni yellows with 1000lb springs rear and 800lb springs front

 

Nice!

 

Good information guys. Thanks for sharing I'm up in Canada and our local track does 0 track prep for the import events. So every bit helps. Thanks...

 

i pulled 1.56's all day not the best but decent. 24.5's

full race traction bar and a mix of progressive spherical bearings. on the new setup it I wont be running a traction bar and Im using the Kingpin bushings. They work. Its sorta expensive, but i can use the room where that traction bar is for something else.

 

AWESOME!!!! Love the simplicity of the suspension and drivetrain and it works!!!

 

Upppp

 

It really comes down to how well the car is set up.... you can have all the power in the world but if you can put it to the ground then its a wasted effort. I havent really done any 60ft testing but from my runs that i have made the avg on new slicks is like a 1.55

70/30
traction bars
energy sus in front
M/T 13x9x24.5 10" wide rim
lauch at around 6500
boost is like 15psi at launch
preload clutch
sus - damper is stiff in rear , med in the front . the preload on springs is the same as the damping.
At the time the car weighed 2400lbs with driver.

 

I have had success with slipping the clutch. And its really not about power. I've cut 1.5s with 147whp. New slicks helps a lot. Not to mention the chassis being dialed.

 

With a properly slipped clutch, you will get your best 60' while putting no more stress on your trans and axles than if you were roll racing.

 

Good read.

 

This is a small tire ef chassis we have a flow control valve but that's it as far as clutch slipping. I wouldnt want to buy clutches all the time.