I have a fully built D16z6 boosted or not, idling or running with the cap on it gets up to 220+ (hondata tells me the temp), without the cap it slowly creeps back down. Fan does kick on. I have checked the thermostat and it is opening ( tested it in a pot of water) , I have even drilled holes in it for some constant flow, and water pump is new. I have an ebay dual core radiator that i was using on the previous motor and I have switched it as well with a stock dual core, I plan on shaving a stock fan to fit and try it as well. I am using a cometic headgasket, the head has been checked the last time i pulled it off which was a week ago and is straight. I have cleaned the the head, gasket, and block before assembling it each time, and the block was freshly machined when I put it together. I have fully recleaned the head just to make sure oil and coolant passages aren't blocked. I am seriously running out of ideas and any suggestions would be HIGHLY appreciated as I have been working on this for 2 years and would like to try and enjoy it before the year is out.

 

Is your fan kicking on?

 

yes, sorry forgot to add that in there

 

and also checked it with an ir thermo. and it reads 216+ on the inlet.

 

Sounds like your set up is modified to make more power, maybe you need a higher cooling capacity radiator to match. Additional oil cooling could help.
Hondata reads from the ECT sensor right at the cylinder head near the outlet? 220 might not be unreasonable. What does the dash gauge say?

 

it doesn't stop at 220 the highest it has gotten before i shut it off was 232. and it reads from the temp sensor on the bottom of the head near the inlet towards the front. and the gauge doesn't read past half, but i'm not sure if it 100% works. I have also already changed the ect sensor in the head.

 

did you ever burp it there is a bleeder valve on the outlet neck of the water jacket open it up till no more bubbles comes out

 

Yes, and even used the air lift tool to vacuum it down and fill it


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You said you put holes in the thermostat. If you have too much coolant flow the motor can over heat becuase the coolant circulates to fast, and does not spend enough time in the radiator.

 

I did that after it was over heating. And if that was the case, wouldnt it act like there was no thermostat in it?


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um just a though is the sending unit your using to get your temps from good? sending units for gauges and the ones that go to the computer do get out of range every now and again.

also like stated if your making more power generally you need more cooling. i would not trust an ebay radiator.

 

What is your compression in each cylinder? You said the block was machined does this include the deck? Your head sounds straight but this does not mean the block is straight. How much power your motor has and weather you need a larger capacity radiator only applies when you are pushing more than 125hp. An example is say cruising 160mph or pulling a long big grade hill and keeping you foot past the "what the original motor could put out".

 

How is your coolant?
Is it water or coolant?
Is it rusty?

Does it overheat while driving?
Does it over heat parked?
Have you bled the system?

 

Temp sensors have been changed, and the ones that were in it worked fine before on the last block.


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Last I checked it was 160 across +-5 ... It wasn't decked and the guy at the machine shop didn't even check it... I have thought about that but am trying not to have to tear it all apart again.


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Coolant has been flushed multiple times, its 50/50, no, yes, yes, yes


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did you make sure your head gasket wasn't upside down

 

Yes, it is the correct way, please don't ask questions thinking I'm a noob, because I am not. Thanks

 

its not like that man I only ask because things happen

have you pressure tested your cooling system?

and when your fan kicks on when parked it still overheats?

 

Yes and yes and is overheating with no thermostat


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Check the rad cap.

 

Different already

 

You didn't mention that. You only said you took it off.

Obviously NOT listing the mods done to the car is hindering accurate diagnosis. Sounds like you have some soft of obstruction to airflow or inadequate fan. Is it the OEM or a slim fan? Shroud or no shroud? The shroud on a slim fan makes the difference. OEM rad cap?

You need to list what car this is in and what mods are done to it.

 

tried with an OEM and slim fan on 2 different radiators, and oem cap on 1 and the ebay one on another


Del sol
d16z6
fj rods
je pistons
ported and polished head
delta 272-2 cam
supertech valvetrain
cometic headgasket
what else do you want to know?

 

if it overheats still with the cap off id thing there is a blockage somewere.


How is the hose next to the intake manifold? the u shaped hose.

Is it a pre shaped hose or did you use heater hiose and bend it?

Any coolant loss?

Smoke?