Need help Identifying/solving problem
I bought a 1990 civic DX Hatchback a month or so ago. It has a D16Y7. I don't know too much about cars so I apologize for the lack of knowledge. The previous owner did a wire tuck and spliced into so many wires. A few weeks ago the car wouldn't start. I need to replace the whole harness because there is a short somewhere. I have a rats nest of wire so i figured it would be safer to change harness instead of sort through it.
There is only one reason I don't have the harness out and that is why I'm posting right now.... I don't know what it's called, but in the picture there is no plug. The wires are hard wired in to whatever they are going into, again, sorry I don't know what its called. So what am I supposed to do? Just cut the wires and solder them to new harness? Thats the only solution I can think of so if you could tell me what you would do and what the hell that is I would appreciate it. Thanks.
There is only one reason I don't have the harness out and that is why I'm posting right now.... I don't know what it's called, but in the picture there is no plug. The wires are hard wired in to whatever they are going into, again, sorry I don't know what its called. So what am I supposed to do? Just cut the wires and solder them to new harness? Thats the only solution I can think of so if you could tell me what you would do and what the hell that is I would appreciate it. Thanks.
That bunch of wires that is bolted to the engine is where the harness is grounded. Its supposed to be bolted down. Does the engine turn over? Does the fuel pump run? Is there spark? It might be easier, and cheaper to diagnose specifically what the problem is instead of replacing random parts.
There's a short. That's the problem. The car runs great. But sometimes it just won't start. Rolls over but won't start. I grab the rats nest of wires shake them for a little and it will start. Well the last time it wouldn't start shaking it didn't help. So time to replace the cluster f*ck and I thought lt it easier to get new harness instead of sort through a giant mess.
In your first picture, directly next to the hoseclamp for the radiator hose on the thermostat housing, what you are referring to as having no clip is your thermostat switch.
It's a thermistor, once it reaches temp it will send ground to trigger your radiator fan. In the same picture, dangling down right on top of your starter is a 2-Position connector, one wire should be green, the other black...this is the corresponding connector to where the factory sensor would be. From the looks of it, someone replaced the OEM sensor with an aftermarket temperature probe...is there an aftermarket temp gauge in the car?
Hope that clarifies for you, however this is not what is causing the no-start issue.
Any CEL's? ECU F/I Fuse good? Is your fuel pump priming? Start by removing the ground on the thermostat housing, clean the surface well, check for fuel/spark. If not, replace your main relay.
It's a thermistor, once it reaches temp it will send ground to trigger your radiator fan. In the same picture, dangling down right on top of your starter is a 2-Position connector, one wire should be green, the other black...this is the corresponding connector to where the factory sensor would be. From the looks of it, someone replaced the OEM sensor with an aftermarket temperature probe...is there an aftermarket temp gauge in the car?
Hope that clarifies for you, however this is not what is causing the no-start issue.
Any CEL's? ECU F/I Fuse good? Is your fuel pump priming? Start by removing the ground on the thermostat housing, clean the surface well, check for fuel/spark. If not, replace your main relay.
I know that's not the issue. It's just attached to the harness that is causing issue. I already replaced main relay. Its good. all fuses are good. Pumps good. I have solid cel. I wiggle harness and cel code goes away and car runs great. Then won't start, solid cel, wiggle and starts. It's just the last time it wouldn't start wiggling didn't help. I can jump the 12v constant on relay to fuel pump and it will prime. Pumps good
I know that's not the issue. It's just attached to the harness that is causing issue. I already replaced main relay. Its good. all fuses are good. Pumps good. I have solid cel. I wiggle harness and cel code goes away and car runs great. Then won't start, solid cel, wiggle and starts. It's just the last time it wouldn't start wiggling didn't help. I can jump the 12v constant on relay to fuel pump and it will prime. Pumps good
Next step would be to either scrap that harness and put something new on, or find the short, which from the pictures you're posting might by a needle in a haystack.
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If it was me, I would hit up my local bone yards and find a new harness and replace that wire-tucked cluster f*@%.
If it is a problem now it will most likely be a problem later on, even if it is not the same problem, there will be other problems.
I understand the whole wire tuck thing, we do them at our shop, what I do not understand is why they are not done properly, jerry rigged wiring of any kind is always a problem, but when you jerry rig a whole engine harness, you are bound to run into problems, continuous problems. 94
If it is a problem now it will most likely be a problem later on, even if it is not the same problem, there will be other problems.
I understand the whole wire tuck thing, we do them at our shop, what I do not understand is why they are not done properly, jerry rigged wiring of any kind is always a problem, but when you jerry rig a whole engine harness, you are bound to run into problems, continuous problems. 94
If you buy a new engine harness you will have to re-do the dpfi to mpfi conversion and if your not good with reading wiring diagrams find someone that can
Cause a regular harness will only have 2 fuel injector connectors. There are some great write-ups on doing that on this site and d-series.org
Google is your friend "dpfi to mpfi conversion Honda" then press search
Cause a regular harness will only have 2 fuel injector connectors. There are some great write-ups on doing that on this site and d-series.org
Google is your friend "dpfi to mpfi conversion Honda" then press search
in all honesty engine looms are rather simple. pull the loom right out. then take a look at it inspect every conetion and every earth. it will be breaking its ground some where . this might sounds silly but check the batery clamps as they can wear and stretch and make it seem like a short but its just the car loosing power ahha
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