My 94 gsr has been having prblems for a while now. When i drive it the fuel just seems to cut out.

Fuel pump clicks and makes kinda a whining noise.

I was throwing codes for iac, tps and injectors, but they are all gone now after i replaced the tps.

Replacing the tps seemed to do nothing, still the same issues,

Right now im either going for the fpr or fuel pump. And i need a gsr version of those both rihgt?

My other theory is maybe a bad ground or the ecu.

Im about to give up on this car me or anyone whos looked at it cannot figure out whats wrong with it, atleast with out throwing parts at it, any input is really appreciated.

 

did you replace that ebay fpr yet?
if so, buy yourself an HEI tester. they're very inexpensive and easy to use. this will actually stress test the ignition system. good tool to have, even if it doesn't turn out to be the problem

 

no i havent, been meaning to but then i did that test you told me to do and it tested fine,

Also i installed new blox tps and calibrated correctly with a steady increase from ct to wot

ill look into that hei tester never heard of it. but i like having tools so il probly pick one up,

Im really done with this car, im trying to trade it for someones ls or something.

This car is fucked in so many ways its driving me crazy.

First the cluster goes crazy when turn signals are on now they go crazy when the headlights are on and when headlights are on the car stalls. Im thinking it may be a bad ground or relay or ecu. since car idles fine but when driving its the problem.

 

When one circuit, [signal lights] has an effect on another circuit, [cluster] it is, as you guess, almost always due to a grounding problem, the one common thing between all the cars circuits is the grounds.

I would be checking all the grounds, starting with the main ones, [batt. post and cable clamp, batt. to chassis ground, chassis to engine ground] also very important are the engine harness grounds, particularly toe ones on the thermostat housing.

I would also check the dash harness grounds.

DO NOT just eyeball the connections, disconnect/clean/reconnect and don't forget to to disconnect the batt. before disconnecting any ground points, although not a problem with most ground points, disconnecting some grounds with batt. still connected can cause damage as loads will "seek" a ground any route possible.

Because of the fuel pump issues/symptoms, "Fuel pump clicks and makes kinda a whining noise" I would definatly have a close look at the PGM-FI Main Relay although that may be a grounding issue also, so start with the grounds, it sure can't hurt to redo the grounds on an 18 year old car.

By far, the most common electrical probem that comes to our shop, [Dave Ward Auto Electric] turn out to be ground related. 94

 

absolutely agree. poor ground(s) could be the cause of all these problems. under load there is a higher demand/supply for current. a poor ground(s) could easily be restricting that demand
as mentioned, go through, and clean thoroughly, all grounds. starting with your mains.
definitely a great place to start. if for nothing else then to at least cancel it as the possibility

 

ok i will go through every ground and check th

Where the ashtray/ac piece is for the wiring, Is there a ground wire stock?

I cant tell if he added a ground in for some reason.

That ground may not be in, I just swapped dashes so alot of stuff isnt plugged in yet.

Also my cluster is an 01 cluster and when u put a 01 later year cluster in a 94 there is a wire left over chllin, i forget what for.

Also the guy had two wires coming off the green/blck vtec wire that would turn on 2 diff lights one for first vtec and one for the second stage,

Also there is a pink wire, havent looked it up, but for some reason it has an extension in the middle.

Also you can see where i think the guy had a fuel cutoff switch but removed it. Its just pigtailed and i think a wire was coming out but now its just doing nonthing, idk if that can cause a bad signal? Its pigtailed under the driver dash area.

I should take a picture of another weird setup hes got on the main incabin fusebox,

Cant tell if its stock or not

 

Pics will help. 94

 

Can you explain what an HEI tester is?

 

 

I give up, I know its not something i wanted to do but i just feel the car has been raped so bad i dont wanna mess with it anymore.

I found a guy to trade me his running 95 gsr so im taking it

Thanks for all your help guys im sure il be back soon enough with more questions and hopefully i can pass on some of the info u guys (elcrapitan, fcm, ron, and many others) have been telling me. Ive noticed in other threads the same thing being repeated its like u guys have quick responses saved for any honda problem lol

 

So just an in-line spark checker...

 

Not an "inline" spark tester, this is an in-line...


The HEI spark tester simulates the load of a spark plug in the combustion chamber.

There are more then a few "types" of spark testers, the HEI tester is an inexpensive and effective one that we use in our shop. 94

 

Got ya. Just learned something new. Thank you fcm.

Alright I'm done thread-jacking; that is all...

 

a bad o2 sensor will cause the issues you are having and the computer will throw a fuel code. why it does this i have no idea but I have been down this road

 

it happens because o2 sensors fail lean. the ecm sees that false lean reading, compares it with other parameters in its RAM and is fooled into believing that the problem is an actual lean condition.

you can start to diagnose this by disconnecting the o2 sensor and running the vehicle in open loop. while it doesn't confirm o2 failure, if the symptoms do not persist, it does confirm an issue with the feedback system