Well this problem occurs at a 50/50 rate. GS is an automatic all stock with 120k miles on it. I done all general maintenance oil, oil filter air filter and all the other oil treatments and fuel injector cleaner and changed fuel filter and fuel pump. Also cleaned my throttle body, but never fully take all parts off and cleaned it. Also put in a new vapor canister.

My guesses are probably a bad throttle body or timing belt and water pump.

When starting it takes about 3-6 turns and i hold each one for about 3 secs but when i stop turning i hear a faint idle then it dies but when it doesnt die the faint idle lasts for up to 10 sec (sounds like the engine is starving) before the idle jumps up to 2k rpm then takes forever to come down to where it should be. Other things i noticed was under the hood after the car running for only couple minutes everything is hot like not even able to hold the hood stand rod that's how hot it comes.
When i look at my temp gauge its normal and as i drive it all day it never jumps stays at where it should be.

If anyone can give me some tips on what it could be i really much appreciate it.

 

a fuel pressure gauge would be a good place to start. see what it's reading when the problem occurs.
also, have you checked for any codes? check them. regardless of an illuminated CEL.

one thing you can try is to cycle the key on for 5 seconds. do that a couple times before cranking it. see if it makes a difference. i've got a sneaking suspicion that your residual fuel pressure is bleeding back. either that, or if the car utilizes a FITV, it may be stuck. and if it doesn't utilize a FITV, it could be an ECT sensor issue, since the ECT is the input for fast idle. those are the places i'd look

 

If my residual fuel pressure is bleeding back how can you fix it?

 

That could be in the fuel pump, [bleed back valve] but you said you replaced the pump so I am guessing it is the FPR.

As mentioned, turn the ign. switch on, wait untill fuel pump stops priming, turn ign. off and on again, again wait untill fuel pump stops priming, repeat a few times before actually trying to start the engine, let us know what happens.

Also as mentioned, check for codes. 94

 

this weekend i have a friend that can scan my car. So we;ll find out what code it throws.
The other day i stopped at a mechanics shop and the owner said it sounds like my main relay is going out. He said its very common on honda cars. So im going to fix that also after i scan my car.

And yes i did do the ing. on off etc and it still did the same problem. The weird thing is that it only does this problem after i drive and try to start my car in the next hour...

 

put a fuel pressure gauge on it and observe pressure when the problem is occurring. it could be the main relay. but could also be ignition related. the gauge will point you in the right direction instead of guessing which way to go with it

 

That is common with the PGM-FI Main Relay, works when cold but fails once warmed up...
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html

Also, you do not need a scanner to check for codes...
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...light-cel.html 94

 

Okay guys. I did a CEL scan nothing came up, change main relay problem still there, just put on fuel pressure gauge. Not sure how to do the proccess for checking if it is my FPR, but it was between 36 and 40 PSI.... but it also drop close to 30 PSI when i turned off the car and checked the gauged in about 5 min.

Any info guys?

One other thing is, can fuel injecters cause this kind of trouble?

 

the pressure will drop with the key off. some loss is normal. i believe 20 psi drop within 30 minutes was the threshold. but that's not your problem here.

was the problem occuring when you read that base fuel pressure?

engine running and gauge installed, your pressure should be between 35-40psi. now, pinch the vac line going to the FPR. pressure should increase by about 10psi. if not, regulator or vac line to regulator is bad. if you get the extra 10psi, line still pinched, snap the throttle 3 times. if the pressure decreased by any more than 2-3psi, there is a flow problem. either the pump is weak or the fuel filter is restricting flow.
if so, i would replace the filter first and retest

 

So i took off the vaccum hose and the pressure went to 50 psi and when i reconnected it it went down to 40-41 psi... Is that normal? I heard it supposed to go down to around 35 psi. Is my regulator drowning out my intake with fuel and causing my car to have a hard time starting with too much fuel inside?

 

well, you were actually supposed to pinch the line, not remove it.
but did you see any fuel inside the vac line?

 

Hey guys sorry been long since i posted busy working...
Anyways i got a B&M FPR and adjusted it to the right psi on the b18b1 engine. But still the problem occurs. I also noticed that when i put a lil pressure on the gas peddle car starts bogging.
Anyone know what this is? I was thinking the sensor on the throttle body, fuel rail or fuel injectors.

Also checked codes coz Cel came on and the code P147 came up.

 

Sorry been long since i posted busy working...
Anyways i got a B&M FPR and adjusted it to the right psi on the b18b1 engine. But still the problem occurs. I also noticed that when i put a lil pressure on the gas peddle car starts bogging.
Anyone know what this is? I was thinking the sensor on the throttle body, fuel rail or fuel injectors.

Also checked codes coz Cel came on and the code P147 came up.

 

Spark plugs

 

There is no code P147 did you mean P1457 EVAP system leak, [canister area]? 94

 

Wires are arcing. Ignition problem!

 

Yah p1457. I got a new canister. But even so why would it only give me problems when i try to start my car within the next half hour after turning my car off? But if i wait like an hour to restart my car it starts right up no problems...

Could the sensor on the throttle body or the intake manifold might be no good?

Another assumption could this be anything to do with my timing and water pump or fuel injectors?

 

Check for vacuum leaks, we use a butane torch, turn it on, [don't light it] point tip at/along all vac lines/connections, if RPMs go up, you have a vac leak. 94