I have a 2000 acura integra and i just got a check engine light po132 and po505. my car bucks and will feel laggy at 2500 to 3000rpms. could it be a bad o2 sensor? i need help

 

Front o2 sensor low voltage and idle control system malfunction codes. Will look up testing procedures later after work. Low voltage is the o2 reading lean condition I believe.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/

 

ok thanks

 

BUMP

 

while an oscilloscope is always best for viewing o2 readings, a voltmeter will suffice for this situation. you need to back probe the o2. the high voltage code means it's reading above it's specified range. the o2 typically ranges from .1v to 1v. KOER, at operating temp, back probe the primary o2 pin at the ecm connector, using a voltmeter. see what your voltage is there. i would get the o2 code sorted out first, then move onto the idle control code. since one may be causing the other. after you back probe atthe ecm, if the voltage reads above 1v, back probe at the sensor. if it still reads above 1v, replace the sensor.

 

Engine lights are no good.

 

Clear the codes and see if both return.

 

A oscilloscope is a better option, then a dvom, it shows you the voltage in a visual graph and good ones will have a example of what the waveform should look like of the component being tested to compare it to. Dvom are not a direct sample it's a slower refresh rate. We use a SUN LS2000

 

for a high voltage code, it doesn't matter. you're not checking peformance. only checking to see that it's out of range.
the o2 signal is sensitive. low voltage. milivolts. that's why it's shielded to block out interferance. my guess, if the signal were in fact reading high voltage at the ecm, but not at the sensor, would be that the signal shorted to the shielding. possibly chafed.
however, if it were reading highvoltage at the ecm and the sensor, the sensor would be confirmed bad.
that's why i'd suggested testing in that manner

 

Any good technician would use a o scope for most testing of electrical circuits. Refresh rates are faster and more accurate and trigger can be set to .5 and lower volt levels and time can be down to mill seconds and lower

 

i don't think the op's a technician.

 

no **** but you are I thought you would know that an o scope is better than any dvom, and shouldn't be giving out your misinformation. That post was to you in the first place, I know most HT members are not technicians just a bunch of wannabes imo.

 

instead of focussing your energy on attempting to prove people wrong, why don't you try helping? although, you're clearly not very good at either

 

I'm helping him and proving you wrong at the same time it's called multi tasking DB! Op use an o scope if you can its way more accurate or follow El crap out the mouth idgaf

 

85% of the members here don't own a dvom, let alone an oscilloscope.

 

Well then what's the point of you telling them to use a dvom or me telling them to use a o scope. Do you think before you post comments with a percentage that you pull out your ***? I own a 400 dollar matco dvom and intend to hopefully get a simular priced o scope since both are needed for corret diag of the many systems used in vehicles these days.

 

my point was that they can buy a dvom for 40$. they can't buy an o scope (which, once again, is not necessary for this situation) for the same price.

 

Explain to me why it's not for o2 voltage testing. The BAR will state otherwise but guess you Canadians don't have a governing body that sets correct procedures for testing certain systems. Thats the difference between Americans and Canadians, we have better programs to teach the right way of doing things. It's no wonder the world hates us your all jealous haters imo.

 

why is it that you keep referring to my being canadian? where is the relevence in that? your insecurity with yourself is so painfully apparent. you seem to think that you should be ashamed of your own complete lack of knowledge. you shouldn't. there's no shame in that. you should, however, be ashamed of your comments on this site. you're showcasing your belligerence like a complete imbecile.

and to answer your question, a dvom will suffice because he's only checking the o2 signal for out of range. remember? he has a high voltage code? he doesn't need to check performance or cross counts. just the range.

 

its a low voltage code you dipshit read post #2 got the info from the ecu and obd code thread from this site. Oh and your post to me on the thread with ****** mayne vein honda doesnt speak anything about your character ehh......in america you people are the highlight of our jokes. Just sayin anything about your knowledge of car repair in my shop is easily set straight by sayin what do you expect hes a french canadian faggit lol

 

P0132 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Circuit High Voltage

taken directly from the codes list that our late friend DeCePtEgRa here has so graciously posted. i'll try and remember the good times, old friend

moving along..

 

changed the o2 sensor and it fixed the po132 code but i still have the po505

 

i suppose the first thing i'd try is to clean the iacv.
a good method is to clean with it on the vehicle. you'll need a can of carb/intake cleaner. remove the air cleaner boot. there will be either 1 or 2 passages inside the throttle body bore, depending on whether or not the vehicle is equipped with a fitv. if there are 2, the top one is the iacv passage. if 1, this will be it. boot off, start the vehicle and allow it to reach operating temp. take your can of intake cleaner, with the nozzle straw attached, and spray liberally directly into the passage. the car will want to stall, so you need to throttle with your hand. you want to throttle somewhat heavy on and off while spraying generously. by throttling on and off, you're working the cleaner into the valve as the valve is being exercised. this method is much better than removing the valve because it cleans the passage as well, which is prone carbon to build up.

after that's done and the boot is reinstalled, allow the vehicle to idle for 10 minutes for any possible recalibration of the valve.

if the problem persists, try adjusting the idle. to do this, vehicle at operating temp, disconnect the iacv. idle should drop to roughly 500rpm. if idle is above/below 500, adjust the idle screw until you hit the mark. reconnect iacv. clear code. idle for 10 minutes