last week me and my neighbor replaced my egr valve. in the process we took off one of the lines to make getting it out easier. of course it had coolant in it and it flew all over the place.

but ever since then when i turn the car off the fan wants to keep running for a couple three minutes. do i need to add some more coolant back to it? and if so what does the 90 model take, 50/50?

 

you may just need to burp the air from the system. Just raise the front of the car a little and run the car while warm. Add coolant to the radiator if cold, overflow if hot. Keep an eye on it for a week for changes.

 

would putting it on ramps be high enough?

is 50/50 fine to use?

 

I use 50/50 premixed stuff. Prestone, usually. If you want bleed without raising the car, just loosen the bleeder valve on top of the thermostat (photo) before you start topping off the coolant. When a clear stream of coolant (no bubbles) runs out of the valve, the air is out. Be sure to twist the heater control on dash to maximum hot (red zone) to make sure coolant flows into every crevice of the system. You don't have to run the heater.

Once full, turn engine off and let it cool down, visible coolant at fill neck will have dropped; top it back off with engine off. Give the upper radiator hose a good squeeze to expel any remaining air and top off again. The goal is no more bubbles. No need to loosen bleeder valve a second time, though. The last step is to cap off the radiator and run the engine to operating temperature to confirm no leaks.

sorry this is an enormous image. I keep forgetting to resize it:

 

OP- be sure the fans cycle when the engine is running as well. Want to be sure coolant didn't get into the fan switch (thermo a).

Brake....looks like you have a small coolant leak, there isn't a clamp on the hose.....

 

Pop the radiator cap open when engine's cold then start the engine and have it running for 5-10 mins so it can burp the air out. Top it off as needed.

 

ok i'll try that today. do i put the coolant in the radiator or overflow as someone stated above?

 

Thanks.. Yeah, that leaks about a drop every other day. I don't think there was a ever a clamp there. It's almost like molded joint. My heater hose busted this summer on a 98º afternoon. I got it off the road before the dash needle even started to rise, got a ride to Advance Auto for new hose, clamps and coolant. It was a hot, miserable job. The old clamps were stubborn and hard to reach. Lesson for me was do things when they need doing --because I had looked at and felt that hose the prior summer and knew it was going to go soon, but still put off replacing it. The moral of the story is I haven't felt like getting back under the hood and looking at that other little leak, but I need to do it.

 

I faced with same problem ,since air bouble does not let the heater core gettng filled with coolant therefore heater blows cold air, I tried to bleed the air via T/S bleed nipple but could not resolved the issue. my question is that if squeezing upper hose with R-Cap off can lead trapped air in heater core being burped?
is there other bleed procedure for such matter without detaching the heater return hose as it is very tight & stubborn?
Thanks

 

What year is this car......either way, turn the heat to max (some years you will need to turn the key to on so the motor moves the cable). Be sure the cable is moving.

Pull the bleeder all the way out and be sure it is not clogged. Re-bleed the system.

If this still does not get heat going, be sure the valve is opening - they can and do fail internally....meaning the cable might move but the inside of the valve is not. You can feel the hoses and see what is going on. Before the valve the hose should get warm, when the valve is open the other side of valve, the hose should get warm. Then feel the outlet hose.

Again, if bleeding one more time doesn't work.....you've got a bad valve, a clogged heater core - can be back flushed - or a t-stat stuck open.

Good luck and let us know what you find.