coolant.
01-16-2009, 03:32 PM
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01-16-2009, 03:35 PM
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Re: coolant.
01-16-2009, 03:43 PM
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Re: coolant.
i still cant pinpoint the problem.
the needle on the temperature gauge keeps going up, but the car is fine on coolant, and the thermostat was switched out when the new radiator was put it, this was back in november.
the needle on the temperature gauge keeps going up, but the car is fine on coolant, and the thermostat was switched out when the new radiator was put it, this was back in november.
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01-16-2009, 04:00 PM
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Re: coolant.
maybe im reading it wrong but i think he was asking if it was ok to not mix it and go 100% coolant. which would definately make you over heat. im not an expert but im pretty sure this is how it works. water is used for cooling the system down. the use of antifreze is to of course keep it from freezing and to lubricate the system to keep it from rusting. some peope run 60% water 40% antifreze to keep their car running a little cooler esp if you live in a warmer climate. so if you run 100% antifreze your car will over heat. 100% water your system will rust and you run the risk of it freezing. hope i helped
01-16-2009, 04:01 PM
#11
be professional
Re: coolant.
When the car is at operating temperature, both rad hoses should be hot. The lower hose will stay somewhat cool until the thermostat opens.
01-16-2009, 04:54 PM
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Re: coolant.
you probably should run 50/50 with water. Im currently inrolled in automotive school and we were always thought u should use 50/50. And both are going to be hot but the Bottom on is usually the cold one
01-16-2009, 07:28 PM
#17
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Re: coolant.
why pay $1 less for half as much??? ready mix FTL.....its really not that hard for you to pour it into another container and add water, is it?
100% coolant is bad, mix it....also no one has mentioned that coolant also raises the boiling point of water, and reduces the freezing point
...unfortunately people have said that it causes corrosion which is untrue, it contains additives that prevent corrosion
....and lets not forget the pressure in the system, that also raises the boiling point of the water
...if everything is working properly then the car should be able to hit about 260F-270F before the coolant boils over, the rest of the engine will be burned up, but it wont be because of the coolant
100% coolant is bad, mix it....also no one has mentioned that coolant also raises the boiling point of water, and reduces the freezing point
...unfortunately people have said that it causes corrosion which is untrue, it contains additives that prevent corrosion
....and lets not forget the pressure in the system, that also raises the boiling point of the water
...if everything is working properly then the car should be able to hit about 260F-270F before the coolant boils over, the rest of the engine will be burned up, but it wont be because of the coolant
01-17-2009, 12:43 PM
#18
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Re: coolant.
[QUOTE=Adankid;37043257]is it bad to use full antifreeze instead of the 50/50 mix?/QUOTE]
the charts say max protection from freezing and overheating is a 70% coolant to 30% water mix. but a 50-50 mix is the best, if you dont have extreme heat or cold.
srmofo gave you the best answer. btw, you did not mention where you lived. if you live where the temp drops way below zero, then you might be better with a 60-40 or 70-30 mix, and probably a block heater as well. I was talking to some Montana folks and how they are coping with -70 below zero temps this 2009 January, and they use block heaters, 70% coolant. but it is while their driving that they have problems with wind chills that cold [coolant starts to gel], more so than when the car is parked sitting still.
any climate with temps above -25 and id say a 50%-50% mix is best.
use whatever coolant you want, or continue using the one you use now [i assume you are using one kind only, right? but whatever you do, dont mix coolant types [unless you are prepared to first do a thorough clean and flush to be safe]. i assume you know that coolant types are not determined by color, right? as for mixing brands of the same type, eh, who can say for 100% certain. i prefer not to get into the oil brand type of debate (any oil is better than no oil). anyway, since you have a 99 honda, my guess is your cooling system is all aluminum, plastic, and rubber parts.
there is a lot of debate with car enthusiasts as to brands, always was always will be. myself i use Honda ATF and Honda PS fluid. why, it was too time consuming trying to discover what was in the ATF [more zinc? who knows], other than what is in Dexron II, which btw, my owners manual tells me is ok to use [95 accord]. but having tranny or heater core problems is something i dislike the most out of all automotive problems [i think i would buy any car that gave me a lifetime warranty on the heater core (worlds worst job, IMO), or the tranny]. as for the ps fluid, it was cheap enough to just grab a bottle when i was also buying the ATF. but keep in mind that we have standards in place for these substances mandated by the government and you "should" be able to use the non-dealer brands, or the generic stuff. i learned that from an aerospace engineer that was quite the knowledgeable person, far beyond what the average master-tech knows. that being said, there is nothing wrong with the Honda stuff at all, and if your gonna guess, then go with Honda. but as to whether Redline or other racing quality fluids might even be better than Honda, well, that very well may be true also. many guys seem to think so. see its not what the worst fluid has, because it has to have certain ingredients by law. i think the real issue for enthusiasts is more about what getting a product that goes beyond what is required by law. that's all there is too it. you certainly dont think that Honda is refining their own petrol do you? nah, they have it labeled for them. just like any other brand does. snap-on tries that argument all the time. hey, i got snap-on stuff [but only unique tools], but i dont buy tools they have made for them. i buy those tools from the people that make'em. so, then what is the logic of buying honda fluids if enthusiasts across the board swear by Redline as the best of the best. why not be consistent with the logic with parts as well? that twisted logic is hard to understand.
I use non-Honda engine oil, coolant, and brake fluid. because i know more about those subjects and the standards. oil info abounds. DOT 4 brake fluid is DOT 4 brake fluid, the government made sure of that one. as for coolant, if you have a cast iron block, with a copper/brass heater core and rad, use the traditional Prestone, Zerex, or Peak ethylene glycol/silicate formula. alot of what is going on is just new type of corrosion inhibitors extending the life of the coolant. 99% of "all" coolants are e.glycol based, except for the propylene glycol, which is supposedly free of poisons that kill animals who slurp it up. i would give it to my dog to drink, though. and if you have an all aluminum cooling system, use anyone you want just dont mix them. BUT and here is what you wont hear often, the main problem with the newer coolants is when you have a mixed system of metals, part aluminum and part brass/copper. the engine, rads, and heater core, can all be different metals. AND the best coolant to use then is the time tested ethylene glycol silicate based stuff - plain ol standard green type.
whatever you do avoid the GM dexcool stuff [eats gaskets]
the charts say max protection from freezing and overheating is a 70% coolant to 30% water mix. but a 50-50 mix is the best, if you dont have extreme heat or cold.
srmofo gave you the best answer. btw, you did not mention where you lived. if you live where the temp drops way below zero, then you might be better with a 60-40 or 70-30 mix, and probably a block heater as well. I was talking to some Montana folks and how they are coping with -70 below zero temps this 2009 January, and they use block heaters, 70% coolant. but it is while their driving that they have problems with wind chills that cold [coolant starts to gel], more so than when the car is parked sitting still.
any climate with temps above -25 and id say a 50%-50% mix is best.
use whatever coolant you want, or continue using the one you use now [i assume you are using one kind only, right? but whatever you do, dont mix coolant types [unless you are prepared to first do a thorough clean and flush to be safe]. i assume you know that coolant types are not determined by color, right? as for mixing brands of the same type, eh, who can say for 100% certain. i prefer not to get into the oil brand type of debate (any oil is better than no oil). anyway, since you have a 99 honda, my guess is your cooling system is all aluminum, plastic, and rubber parts.
there is a lot of debate with car enthusiasts as to brands, always was always will be. myself i use Honda ATF and Honda PS fluid. why, it was too time consuming trying to discover what was in the ATF [more zinc? who knows], other than what is in Dexron II, which btw, my owners manual tells me is ok to use [95 accord]. but having tranny or heater core problems is something i dislike the most out of all automotive problems [i think i would buy any car that gave me a lifetime warranty on the heater core (worlds worst job, IMO), or the tranny]. as for the ps fluid, it was cheap enough to just grab a bottle when i was also buying the ATF. but keep in mind that we have standards in place for these substances mandated by the government and you "should" be able to use the non-dealer brands, or the generic stuff. i learned that from an aerospace engineer that was quite the knowledgeable person, far beyond what the average master-tech knows. that being said, there is nothing wrong with the Honda stuff at all, and if your gonna guess, then go with Honda. but as to whether Redline or other racing quality fluids might even be better than Honda, well, that very well may be true also. many guys seem to think so. see its not what the worst fluid has, because it has to have certain ingredients by law. i think the real issue for enthusiasts is more about what getting a product that goes beyond what is required by law. that's all there is too it. you certainly dont think that Honda is refining their own petrol do you? nah, they have it labeled for them. just like any other brand does. snap-on tries that argument all the time. hey, i got snap-on stuff [but only unique tools], but i dont buy tools they have made for them. i buy those tools from the people that make'em. so, then what is the logic of buying honda fluids if enthusiasts across the board swear by Redline as the best of the best. why not be consistent with the logic with parts as well? that twisted logic is hard to understand.
I use non-Honda engine oil, coolant, and brake fluid. because i know more about those subjects and the standards. oil info abounds. DOT 4 brake fluid is DOT 4 brake fluid, the government made sure of that one. as for coolant, if you have a cast iron block, with a copper/brass heater core and rad, use the traditional Prestone, Zerex, or Peak ethylene glycol/silicate formula. alot of what is going on is just new type of corrosion inhibitors extending the life of the coolant. 99% of "all" coolants are e.glycol based, except for the propylene glycol, which is supposedly free of poisons that kill animals who slurp it up. i would give it to my dog to drink, though. and if you have an all aluminum cooling system, use anyone you want just dont mix them. BUT and here is what you wont hear often, the main problem with the newer coolants is when you have a mixed system of metals, part aluminum and part brass/copper. the engine, rads, and heater core, can all be different metals. AND the best coolant to use then is the time tested ethylene glycol silicate based stuff - plain ol standard green type.
whatever you do avoid the GM dexcool stuff [eats gaskets]
Last edited by AtoZ; 01-24-2009 at 06:43 AM.
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