Stock B20 VTEC Compression Results
I ran a compression test on my B20 Vtec Crx about 25 minuites ago. Its a b20b4 bottom and a b16 head (pr3-2).
The results..
Cylinder #1..145
Cylinder #2..145
Cylinder #3..144
Cylinder #4..145
There all even numbers across the top. But is this low for this setup?
Also, the engine is all stock with only bolt on parts. Internally the engine is stock.
The results..
Cylinder #1..145
Cylinder #2..145
Cylinder #3..144
Cylinder #4..145
There all even numbers across the top. But is this low for this setup?
Also, the engine is all stock with only bolt on parts. Internally the engine is stock.
Last edited by B20vCRX; Nov 1, 2012 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Added information
Seems a little low but again cold numbers aren't reflective of anything. The numbers are very close together which is usually a sign of a healthy motor.
If he's not getting spark, he won't be able to check the compression after the motor has warmed up lol.
Check your main relay/fuel pump relay, replace the cap and rotor, and check to see if you are getting spark AT THE CAP. If you are, then it'll be an easy fix.
Check your main relay/fuel pump relay, replace the cap and rotor, and check to see if you are getting spark AT THE CAP. If you are, then it'll be an easy fix.
Its still getting no spark
Me and a few others have come to the conclusion that my distributer is bad.
It will be replaced sometime tomorrow and I can confirm if that was the problem.
I just had a custom harness made since the old one was a hack job. I was hoping that was the problem, Maybe a short? since everything was butted together haha. Its a fun little car I just really hope I can get this figured out soon. Iv tried almost everything.
Fuel pump primes,
Realys are working,
Yel/Grn wire is correctly wired,
Grounds are all grounded, correctly.
So im praying this is the problem!
Me and a few others have come to the conclusion that my distributer is bad.
It will be replaced sometime tomorrow and I can confirm if that was the problem.
I just had a custom harness made since the old one was a hack job. I was hoping that was the problem, Maybe a short? since everything was butted together haha. Its a fun little car I just really hope I can get this figured out soon. Iv tried almost everything.
Fuel pump primes,
Realys are working,
Yel/Grn wire is correctly wired,
Grounds are all grounded, correctly.
So im praying this is the problem!
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And to check spark at the cap? I just pull the cap off, set it done while still wired and turn it over to see if it sparks inside?
* Just went outside to check cap for spark, Kept all wires on and just unscrewed it from Distributer laid it on valve cover and when I had someone turn it over there was no visible spark at all. Its dark out and I even turned off the light on my phone.
* Just went outside to check cap for spark, Kept all wires on and just unscrewed it from Distributer laid it on valve cover and when I had someone turn it over there was no visible spark at all. Its dark out and I even turned off the light on my phone.
Last edited by B20vCRX; Nov 6, 2012 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Added Information
leave wires attatched to the distributor, just un screw one spark plug, plug it into the wire, then hold the tip of the plug on your exhaust manifold
Oh, Iv done that first day I ran into this problem. And it was getting no spark. Tonight I have a friend dropping off an Ignitor chip out of the distributer too check on that, After already trying a new coil and still failing to spark. I will update this here in the next 2 hours on how the ignitor worked.
Currently can't find my voltmeter. So as of now I put a test light on black and yellow and blue wire on my dizzy connector. And nothing lit up. Then I put it on the male connector, yel/blue. And got light on yellow wire. All with key on 2nd turn.
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