My motors coming out of the machine shop sometime next week.
I picked up a GsR head for super cheap with R cams. I know that I'd deff
Make alot more switching to pro2's maybe even pro3 but wanted to get some input

85x89
ERL sleeved b18a1
89mm Ls/b20 crankshaft balanced.
85mm Probe 12.1 forged pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Oem type r oil pump
Oem type r water pump
p72 GsR head 3 angle valve job
PLM TODA 4-2-1 style header
Supertech dual titanium valve springs
Supertech flat face valves
Supertech titanium retainers
Supertech valve seals
Supertech valve guides
Supertech Keepers
Skunk2 pro series IM (port matched)
Passwordjdm Kevlar whale dong
70mm omnipower throttle body
440 Precision performance injectors
B&m FPR
BDL fuel rail
98 spec Integra type R camshafts
AEM 5 bolt can gears

I'm pretty sure ITR cams are probably undercanmed but would it affect it in a negative way? My builder also said I should go with an oversized valves anyone running pro2 & running into v2v problems any input will be greatly appreciated. Any similar set ups what was your cam choice? Also would a 2.5 inch exhaust be attequite & should I add a Resonator I have straight piping but I heard that's not the best idea

 

The R cams will give you an awesome powerband, but I do believe you would benefit from some DD Tech, Pro1, or Toda B cams. What engine management are you going to be tuning with? A different intake would be something to consider also. If you're close to being maxed-out on your budget, I would stay with your current cams. They won't disappoint. And leave your valves alone, they are more than adequate at this stage.

 

lol, i have no idea how you would even build a motor to just run itr camshafts being that big.

Like clean rice said, i'm pretty sure the powerband was fine and dandy, but you're being held back alot..
You need a better profiled cam for sure.. anything bigger will just allow the motor to breath more and make more power.

 

True that but I am pretty maxed out on this build $ wise seriously on my grind to get this done, but yeah i was thinking pro2's I found tuner 2's also but didn't know the specs on those I'm also wanting to run 75-100 wet shot would I have to be careful on how much lift & duration I can run?

 

He said that if I oversize my valves it'll lay flatter promoting better flow, I already have the normal size Supertech black valves. But yeah wish cams weren't an arm and a leg. tuning on s200

 

No you should sell them to me

 

Well if you're maxxed out on the build, then me offering my camshafts to you would be no point.

Search around pro2's and pro3's can be had for 400-500 bucks, which is about the only cam i'd look at , to even be suitable for this engine..
If you're running a nitrous setup, i would save up some money and pm me when you're ready, as a nitrous and na profile are two different things..and require two different camshafts..to have a camshaft thats in the middle you'll need to go with a more tailored profiled for both.

 

I picked up a set of RS machines camshafts today from another member her for about 300 bucks, seen some good results of them against pro2 with no stories of cams snapping....yet
interesting about what you said about the custom nitrous grind. Would the camshafts I chose be a bad choice for nitrous what dictates what a nitrous cam grind should be less duration? Less lift? Tryna learn as much as I can at the moment in pretty new to the nitrous idea, I jut know I wanna squeeze a couple times to race some buddies that have low comp turbos lol

 

Due to the amount of exhaust gases created by a S/C or nitrous setup,a larger exhaust camshaft is required to evacuate the cyl quicker..

On paper it would be something like a pro1 intake cam, with a pro3 exhaust cam..something of that nature. Both superchargers and nitrous setups follow the same profile almost, requiring some tweaks because one is actually boost the other is actually a gas/chemical, anyway Being NA and nitrous will require different profiles, to be a happy medium you'll need to get a custom cam or do alot of research and see what's worked for the guys who have ran both NA and nitrous setups.. bigger the spray, the more important it becomes.

Not saying you can't have success with a shelf profile, not saying that at all, but with the amount of money you've tied up into the build and from what it sounds like, why cheap out on probably the most important part of the build..the camshaft overall controls the entire charactist of the motor.

RS machine camshafts aren't around anymore as far as i know, if you got a set , it was probably the guy selling them for 300 in the forsale threads, the lift is subpar and the duration is decent..its a mild/hotter NA cam, comparable to the M22, pro1,s2s2 or Toda B's. Advertised Duration is around 270, @ .050 its more like 260ish or so i believe.

Good luck.

 

Derek does that same principle apply to turbo applications(I'm assuming)?

 

From what i've found, in bigger, high whp / psi cars, you can throw logic out of the window..

Turbo cars, for instance a "street" car @ probably 12-18psi of boost with a well put together setup would like a taller cam, with a mild duration..The reason the cam profile will be different is because with the turbo, it's gonna get forced in..although the same can be had with a SC, the problem is, the exhaust gas created by a supercharger..

Turbos for street car's, need better profiles to help turbo spool, and keep that midrange up,but that can vary ALOT on the setup.. a mild camshaft should prove decent, people have plenty of success with ITR camshafts, and there's a reason for that..

That whole Blow by thing, if the cams aren't dialed in right and the car isn't setup right, ya it can happen, and it probably happens on alot of the cars/setups out there because most people put these big NA camshafts in, and think its better..we all know the shelf turbo profiles out there, aside from a few are crap for honda's.. we've disproven the whole smaller lift and less duration **** is not right.. Peak lift though, is more of a bad thing then a good thing and i've found particularlly with honda's, duration is where majority of the power can be made with.

 

With all that parts, why aren't you running a ported head that's flowtested?
If any, it would show which valve lift flows best, not to mention total CFM, narrowing your cam choices by quite a bit.

Oversized valves reduce quite a bit on how much you can advance or retard a cam. It's kinda a crapshoot IMO if you don't flowtest the head and find out how much air it can flow AFAIK.

Has anyone flowtested a head before and after oversizing valves? I am interested whether it has good gains. My intuition says not much, but better real life test than just assumptions.

 

i pretty much am low on funds with this build and i know if i wait to come up with the money for high quality port work that its just gonna put my car on stand by even longer and my cars already been off the roads for a year im just ready to get it back on the streets ive been stackin on parts for a year and am super close to putting them all to use, i would love a cnc ported head and make MONSTER power but im pretty much broke now
somewhere down the road though i deff want port work

 

makes sense nice thanks for the 411 always nice to learn things from credible members on here