Brand new timing belt and Haynes manual for setting tension doesn't seem right at all to me.

After lining up the crank sprocket and cam sprocket and getting the belt on correctly. It says rotate the crank around a few times to make sure all is good which I understand, also seats the belt squarely on the sprockets, water pump etc.
Now from TDC on the #1 cylinder on compression stroke loosen the timing belt adjuster bolt and turn the crank till the cam sprocket goes three teeth past TDC and re-tighten the tensioner bolt down.

That seems shady to me. The only thing putting tension on the belt then is this tiny spring from the tensioner to a stud sticking out the block. When done this way as per the manual I can push lightly on the longer length of belt between the cam and crank sprockets and deflect it a 1/4". Between cam and water pump 1/8".
I thought timing belts were much tighter than that? Is this correct?

Even though it's my daily it's still boosted and I drive it like I stole it so I need to make sure this is done right.

Thanks guys
Malcolm

 

Google turns up the same procedure as the Haynes manual so I guess this must be it. I just thought the belt would be much tighter than this.

http://www.wikiauto.com/Honda-Civic-...djustment.ashx

 

i believe 1/2 inch is acceptable. 1/4 deflection is good.

 

OK thanks man. I was getting worried I was doing something wrong.

 

Sounds like you did it right with exception to using the crapiest "repair" manuals ever.
The important part takes place when you rotate the crank to take out the slack between the crank and cam on the front side of the belt.
The spring in the tensioner keeps the slack on the backside of the belt under control - not a lot of tension needed to do that.

 

Thanks man. LOL on Haynes manual. Definitely not the best but they do make for some handy references that are easy to use. I did find the full Honda Service Manual actually a few months ago on PDF but it's on my desktop computer that's packed away in boxes (just moved house recently) so all I have is my trusty laptop and awesome Haynes manual

 

I give it a little extra push while tightening.

 

X2 on this I like my belts tight.
And the haynes is just fine. If you can't comprehend what's in it, your basicly illiterate..

 

Tight belts are a very bad thing. You can't replace cam journals... Also, it's "you're"....so by definition you are illiterate yourself. Too many hours reading Haynes manuals by chance?

 

I've got a copy of the factory service manual I can send you free if you want it.

The longer side of the belt always has morw deflection due to the length between the cam gears and tensioner. This is a problem on really high hp/rpm motors as the belt can skip teeth. A few companies make billet secondary tensioners that bolt in place of the ps pump to keep extra tension on that side of tje belt right below the cam gears. This improves belt wrap and virtually elimimates any issues. I don't think it's needed on your setup.

We've had similar issues with the accessory drive belt on our c6 z06 due to routing and length of the belt where the belt will actually skip or jump the pullies. The solution was similar to the seconday tensioner where you replace the stock belt idler pulley with a fixed tensioner. (No springs, you put a torque wrench on it and torque it to a pre determined value then tighten the pulley)

I've always wondered if b series motors would benefit from such a tensioner where it doesn't use a spring but a pre determined constant torque value on the timing belt.

 

My belt is pretty damn loose when the engine is cold. Its kinda amazing how much the belt tightens up when the engines are hot. Too tight is bad you will know it by the belt "whining" when u rev up the motor. It can also lead to belts stretching slightly, as I've had this issue with oem belts in the past. Switched over to a gates belt and its alll good

 

I have done hundreds of b series timing belts, Do NOT rotate the engine before tensioning the belt you run the risk of engine damage from the belt jumping!!! Only after the timing is set and belt tensioner is tight should you rotate the engine to check your timing marks again for alignment.

1- align the motor at TDC for number one

2- loosen the tensioner bolt so tensioner is free to move

3- install the timing belt exhaust side first

4- once the belt is on, rotate the motor (counter clock wise only) a total distance of three teeth all in one motion, you don’t want to turn it one tooth at a time or you will not tension the belt correctly. When you do the three teeth rotation watch the exhaust side of the timing belt as you move the three teeth you will see the belt tighten.

5-After the three tooth move you then tighten the tensioner bolt and can safely rotate the engine counter clock wise several rotations stopping on # 1 TDC each time to check that your marks are still aligned.

 

Relax I'm on my phone. Not on my 1988 macintosh with dial up.......

 

I have seen many heads have messed up cams and cam journals from tightening the belt too much. As crazy as it seems you might want to follow what the manual says.

 

Yea I've seen cams and cam journals get scored due to excess tension actually pulling the cam down

 

don't worry about it. bad grammar doesn't equal illiteracy

 

Ahh, but on the contrary... just because you can't read or write doesn't mean you lack the ability to comprehend. Some of the smartest people that helped "build" America didn't even finish "Elementary School". Either way, my phone changes things on me all of the time. Stupid words like "Snap-On Tools" changes to "snipsnapsipperydo gangster" and the likes...

Those aftermarket "helper" pulleys start being needed after around 10k+ RPMs... On domestics it is usually after 7-8k RPMs - but belt drives eliminate the need being that its integrated.

 

Does your phone also inadvertently add the letter "s" at the end of RPM?

 

Either way, my phone changes things on me all of the time. Stupid words like "Snap-On Tools" changes to "snipsnapsipperydo gangster" and the likes...

 

my S3 does that too but unlike my other phones it only suggests words and doesn't actually correct them, which is just as annoying as it changing the word to something random


so you want that factory service manual[s]?

 

Re downloaded from hondahookup.com already but thanks man.

 

No problem, always looking out and trying to help

 

subscribed haha

 

Thats the way to do it

 

I found the process in the manual works just fine if you follow it exactly, once you put the belt on you snug the bolt for the tensioner and then rotate the crank over several times to seat the belt without any risk of the belt jumping. It turns over nicely. Then you can do the tensioning process knowing the belt is sitting squarely and correctly on all the pulleys.

I did the process several times to get a good feel for it all and one time I installed the belt but did not tighten the tensioner bolt and turned the crank over and I saw the cam jerk as it would go past tension on the valves. I think that's what you're talking about. I could see the belt possibly jumping or doing something odd in that case.

Also I have a D and not a B so maybe that's the difference.