Need help I have it installed but noticed there is a gap between the dampner and the timeing belt gear. Dosent seem like the balancer pully fits its a small space, do i need to add a spacer? Any help or pics would be nice.

 

did you trim the timing cover?

 

I'm not even running the cover

 

Do you have either the balancer shaft gear or a spacer to elminate it on there?

 

Nope that pretty much what I need to know do I need a spacer cause from what I see the balancer pully will not fit. Do u know what size spacer?

 

If you no longer have balancer shafts and did not install the pulley on the crank snout for them then you will need a spacer.

KaizenSpeed makes a spacer they will sell seperate of their balancer shafter elimination kit it is normally sold as a part of.

 

Thank u sir that's what I need

 

if fluidampr is still using an aluminum hub i would send it back and get an ati before you regret it later

 

How can u tell if I have the one with the aluminum hub?

 

Since I am not familar with their product or with what fluidamper is making them out of currently. Weight, finish of the metal, etc should give you a good indication what the hub is made from.

If you cannot tell the difference still, a magnet will tell you quickly which is aluminum and which is steel... or for that matter you could just call fluidamper.

I do not claim to know if their product has issues with the hub or anything since I have no first hand experience, just answering the how to identify aluminum vs steel.

 

How big is the gap?

 

Haven't had a chance to check the material yet. Its roughly a inch without mesuring it.

 

The New Fluidanpr is not Aluminum, I run the Race damper very tight fit and that **** is Heavy.

 

Why don't ppl like the fluid dampner?? Just wondering

 

I had fluidamper for like 3 year never had any problem reving at 10.5rpm yes u will need a spacer for ur set up call KAIZENSPEED the spacer it's only $20

 

Bandwagon.

 

Most of my research led me to the thought that Fluidampr works well on lower rpm applications, up to maybe 8-9K rpm, as it is mainly designed for big domestic engines, where the ATI is better suited for the high rpm applications our engines see.

This is just what others said, and I personally know one person who damaged a few engines before tracking it down to the Fluidampr, but they determined that particular unit had a fault.

 

I was just wondering bc I've seen more than one person against it but never anything to back it up

 

ati uses steel for a reason

i had a fluidampr and found out the hard way why an aluminum hub is no good

fluidampr is well aware of the problem. many other racers and engine builders have had the same problem. they should have switched to steel by now i would hope.

 

And for anyone thinking of using the Fluidapr with an H2B, know you'll have to cut and box the framerail due to their interia ring being located outpast the alternator channel.

IMO as well the ATI is a better choice all around, and there are mutiple versions you can get to work.

 

A couple reasons why we sell the ATI over the fluidamper is because the ATI units are rebuildable and the fluid units are not. Also over time like all fluids they start to go bad. The gel inside starts to get hard and do not work anymore. Since you can not open them up, you do not know when they have gone bad. And yes, any time if the snout is made of aluminum they will spin. Here is a chart we posted to show the difference as well.
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/harmonics.htm

 

I have one thread jacking Question, I currently run the Fluidampr Race damper, what can I do to my alternator pulley to get it to charge normal again, its underdriven now, charges low at idle.

 

underdriven is bandwagon

 

Ok your right, how can I stay on this wagon and get my normal charging back? You seems like a person that knows everything.