This has turned into a build thread at this point I'll give a run down of where I'm at wth this car and the build updates will continue on the proceeding pages toward the end. Goal at this point with the car is to get into the 9's and enjoy it for a change. This motor should be good to go and be somewhat trouble free for a while with proper maintenance and care for it. By the end of the year or begining of next year the plan is to be in the 9's and shaving off tenths with suspension setup and balancing of the car etc..

Engine: Built by Howard Anderson @ ARFab
B18C1 - LS 89mm crankshaft
ARFAB Spec Arias Outlaw 84mm Pistons
Darton MID Sleeves, O-ring, Step deck
GRP Aluminum Rods
King Race bearings calico coated
ATI Race Damper
Ferrea Roller Cams
Ferrea Valve springs, retainers, locks, Comp+ Valves
Golden Eagle Cam Gears
Skunk2 5.5L Ultra Race Intake Manifold
Hasport Mounts Billet inserts

Drivetrain, Suspension, brakes:
Gforce Dog Box
Clutch Masters FX725 triple disc clutch system
Insane Shafts 1000hp axles
Blox Drag Full coilovers front and rear
Skunk2 Front cambers
SPC rear cambers
Hardrace Rear control arm bushings
Kingpin sphericals in upper lower and compliance
24.5" M&H slicks on Weld wheels up front
M&H Skinnies in the rear on Weld 1 piece wheels
Front and rear Hawk HP+ pads, brembo rotors
Whitfield 8.50 Roll cage

Turbo & Fueling system:
Forced Performance HTA7287 turbocharger
Tempest topmount manifold
Twin 44mm Tial wastegates
Turbosmart Race port BOV
3" Custom Charge pipes w/ Vanjen Clamps done by Turbo-Elements
Custom FMIC made with a 24.5x12x4.5 Garrett core by Turbo-Elements
4" Send It Racing uppipe
AEM Infinity Felixtuned
AEM 5 bar map sensor
Magnafuel MP4303 fuel pump
Magnafuel Regulator
Turbo Elements 5 gal fuel cell
-8 feed, -6 return
Fuel Lab Post filter, Allstar pre filter
8 - ID2000 injectors
M&W Pro14 ignition w/cbr coils
AEM integrated wideband







Well as some of you might noI've been running into some issues with my integra lately since I've been beating it up at the track. Car has always had transmission issues. I tune and build my own cars and I have had this one for quite some time on this same engine too.

Started hitting up the San Antonio Raceway lately with it as I no longer daily drive the car. Best time out of the old turbo combination was 11.61@125mph. She's a big heavy bitch gsr LOL. the setup was a piston/rod gsr with LS crank. CTR cams , supertech valves, jun springs/retainers, bronze guides, stock port. This was with a SPA top mount and Garrett turbo which worked out to be a 58 trim so same power output as a 57 trim basically. Maxed the turbo out at 19 pounds. from there it made no more power at the track. This isnt a dyno queen.

So the upsets list ! Decided to drop a couple grand and up the game a little with a Precision 6266sp. Revamped the cooling system with a larger radiator. Also was stepping up to E85 with ID2000's and walbro 450 pump. Well got the new turbo installed and did some quick tuning on it and headed to SAR. 4 passes and the trans let got. Wouldnt shift and was making all sorts of noises.

Sourced a transmission from Ahobbs with mfactory lsd and 4.4 final got that installed and made a dyno appointment at Noribuilt to tune the Ethanol as im not experienced with this fuel and wanted it done right. Well i decided i was finally going to install my GSC turbo cams two days before the dyno appointment. So we got the cams in, timingbelt adjusted and valve lash set. Buddy pulls the plug for the oil to drain it so we could put in conventional for cam break in procedure. Well we found a Sprioclip stuck to magnetic drain plug !!! Cancel dyno appointment and took a few days off from working on the car.

Took the motor out today and tore her down. Cylinder 2 wrist pin was half way out of the piston and digging its way through the cylinder wall. not what I wanted to see at all. So at this point it's a rebuild. Some parts will be reused, others will be upgraded and replaced. I'm just on the fence right now as to still sticking with stock sleeves or going with a sleeved block. The block is able to be sleeved no problem. I have sourced a couple blocks already just on the fence.

Oh yes and my comp stage 5 clutch is completely done for after maybe 4000 miles and 20 hits at the track, kinda dissapointed with that. So i have to through in the mix a new clutch too.

 

Also looking to do some major weight reduction in this car. I've decided its going to be mainly a 1320 car and some minor street driving. I've already lost the a/c. I want to remove the power steering and install a manual rack out of an EG. Will save weight and still have positive steering response. Also looking for other ideas for weight reduction. Looking to get it down to the weight of the eg hatchbacks so I can run with the locals. 2908lbs with me in the car before I started removing things.

Took out about 65lbs worht of power wire and speaker wires etc from my young SYSTEM days lol.

 

Well, not sure about the weight reduction part, as even stripped versions are easily only losing about 100lbs-150lbs. That really won't make much of a difference, at least from what I've experienced from others anyway.

My friend, its time to sleeve, especially with the way that the cylinder looks, there's no reason to chance it with the camshafts, clutch, LSD, axles, and turbocharger that you've chosen. Whether this is blessing in disguise I can't say for sure, but it is a good thing that you stopped when you found that spiral lock, or things could have been much, much worse. Give Golden Eagle a shout, and time to go 84mm, with a nice copper o-ring.

I'd use either that block,or even a GS-R block sleeved to 84mm with the same LS crank, some new pistons (like a CP, JE, or my favorite, Wiseco) check to see if the rods are ok, (though I'd get new ones) and rid the SPA topmount stuff (my sheer opinion).

Time to upgrade that intercooler too for these new parts. There's no way what you have now will support that 6266 and GSC camshafts. Guaranteed.

 

I appreciate everything you said Mac. You've always got great advise. The budget is running thin currently and the wife is starting to get angry lol. I know the intercooler won't allow me to take full advantage of the cams and turbocharger but that's the last thing I can change right now. Though I do want to upgrade in the near future. As for the spa manifold for now it has to work but getting my self a tig welder and will be building my self something custom in the next few months to take full advantage of the cams and turbocharger.

Looking at CP's with upgraded wrist pins for pistons. Probably going somewhere in 11's for compression being on ethanol would like a little more response out of the motor. Looking to increase efficiency and performance overall even though it's mainly just a drag car now.

 

Really hard launches/lots of slipping will nuke a clutch lol.

The custom comp I had on my sr looked perfect after 20 something full day drift events

 

I wonder if you bent the wrist pin and that's what caused the clip to come out. Roll that pin on a flat surface and check for a wobble or light under the middle.

 

When I pull them completely apart to reuse the rods and to have them checked I will see if it's bent. I'm surprised it held together as long as it did. Thankful that it only got this far and didn't destroy everything

 

I'd try cp since my Wisecos did the same thing. But then again I put used Eagle rods in my engine without checking them for straightness. So maybe thats why it happened.

 

damn son!! sorry to see this..i would just sleeve it, or if u on a budget find another block and get the css installed. Dont kno how quick you trying to get it back running..Ive always had bad luck with competition clutch, seems like hit or miss..switched to a act extreme been happy ever since.

 

I'm not going to rush this rebuild. I really was trying to go to IFO this upcoming weekend but this put the brakes on that. I may take my time with this and just go sleeved but I know that will lead to an expensive clutch and rods etc. so still on the fence. Defiantly not in a rush this time though. Countless late nights got nowhere so less late eights and a solid build is what I want.

 

Turbo-LS
sorry to hear what has happen but glad that you found it early before it got worst. im wanting to resleeve my gsr as well, but im unsure of who to go with, but im leaning towards benson. ill keep an eye out on your build to get some ideas. hopefully when you get it running again i can meet you at the race track in san antonio

 

The wife will always be angry when it comes this.. (ask me how I know!). But she'll be even MORE angry if you don't use the correct parts this time around. Thank goodness this isn't your only mode of transportation.

You can even plan for the intercooler core now (which is ALWAYS cheaper), and use either cast or custom endtanks later. That way you don't completely kill the budget at once, and have the future plans later. That way, whether or not you use the SPA manifold (I have a feeling over time you won't ) you can still plan the endtanks to work either for that, or another type of manifold (Nothing wrong with quality used parts for the rebuild.

I typically plan 1-1.5 years in advance for a rebuild based upon budget and parts, because I know life is rather feast or famine, but its even worse when you plan with the older stuff and find it doesn't do the job nearly as well.

So don't go with the mindset of "it'll have to do"... Just know that a change is on the list for later (since this will be a full drag car) and plan around it accordingly.

Rome wasn't built in a day..... But it was built.

 

lmao

 

Mac is the bomb!

Sorry to see this but am pretty sure it's gonna be a blast the next time around.

 

Justin, I have my built bottom end I just took out yesterday. Lmk if I can help. Glad the trans went to a good home

 

interesting update....I went through the same thing when i got a call during my current build from the shop saying i had a crack between the 3rd and 4th cylinder head pockets

But at-least you addressed the situation and kept moving along, i watch so many people part out their builds just because of little ****.

Keep the build going man!

 

Still exploring options at this point. Might set a spending limit per month and get one or two things a month and rebuild this thing right over a longer period of time and In the mean time find a way to rebuild with exsisting parts in another block to get the car back up and running to enjoy it a little bit still not sure.

In the mean time will probably start building my buddy's car. We got rid of his EG shell and picked up a 99 SI shell to build for him. Will keep me occupied while mine sits for now untill i make up my mind. Im sure IFO this coming weekend will push me to get started ordering parts

 

Ok so lets talk connecting rods. Whats your thoughts on what brand and what style

 

For what purpose/power level? You never really stated a new goal. If you want to spend some money, just go to the bottom of the book! Also, your car isn't that heavy... try weighing 3,330 without a driver.

 

Well goal in mind is 700 whp. I've got the turbo for it not sure if enough fuel pump but enough injector for sure. I'm just going to take the time needed and save and go sleeved block. I'm thinking CP pistons with upgraded pins prob 11:1 -12:1 compression on e-85. But im also open to suggestions on pistons as well. Comes down to rods. I know I can just grab any high end rod and be safe just want experiences and what people like dislike. Also maybe thoughts on aluminum rods. This is going to be turned into mainly just a drag car. Nothing is purchased yet so I'm open to thoughts and experiences.

Muckman thanks for the PM

 

Well, before any foolish banter gets started, I am going to post some links for EVERYONE to read. That I am aware of, there isn't that much talk about connecting rods in general in the Import world. In the Domestic world, it is an every day subject...

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...y_choices.aspx

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...yths-with-grp/

 

I went with Manley Turbo Tuff rods Justin.. Buy them once and be done with it, If you ever decide on big power the rods are good for over 1000.. That's what I did, for now I'll be good with 550-650 with the 40r but glad I know my block will be built proof to make more power if I decided too..

 

Looks like who ever filed your rings forgot to deburr the edges after filing, what was your PTW on the motor?

 

Good articles. Good referencing.

 

other than the spirolock coming out the motor was very healthy and didn't have any other issues. PTW was .030 which is plenty for a high silicon piston and the HP i was looking for at the time. I filed the rings and there weren't any bad edges when installed. This motor has been healthy and ran strong for 6 years of abuse was daily driven in north east for 5 years.

Great links thank you sir. I knew about the aluminum rods not stretching etc but they do grow as they warm up and contract when they cool so i would imagine tighter oil clearences are needed on the bearings for cold motor to allow for proper clearence on a warm motor. I like that they allow for less abuse on the bearings. Im aware you have to notch the block and the girdle for these and you should radius the nothing not have straight edging to stop stress cracking at those points.

What im not sure of is and someone correct me on this needing more Piston to deck clearence would mean lower compression correct ? So what do you do to battle this and come up with yoru desired compression given the rods will be a little short ?