First question, i have some aftermarket fpr. I believe its set too low. Its at around 32-38. I dont know how to turn it up. If someone could point me to a link that would be awesome. AND im having hard starts/long cranking which i read the fpr is a major reason for. Can i just get a stock fpr?

Second: I have a code 16 bad fuel injector. My injectors all have same resistance, they are high at about 13.8 each. I did break the clips a little when i was discovering about those little metal clips. Could this be causing a bad contact? Is there a way to test the clips for resistance or something.

Its causing a high idle and i turned it down and it went back up. Also i think my car is in limp mode. Is there a way to test to see if your in limp mode? I am also throwing code 7 tps sensor.

Thanks in advance for any help

 

i take it that since you were able to read pressure, there is a gauge installed.
there is usually a jam nut on the reg that locks the adjust screw. back the nut off. vehicle running, turn the adjust screw whichever direction increases pressure. set it to about 38psi idle. now hold the adjust screw while you tighten the jam nut. done.
to test the reg, at idle, pinch off the vacuum line to the reg. pressure should increase by 10psi. if not, reg is bad. now, line pinched, snap the throttle with your hand 3 times. pressure should drop no more than 2-3 psi at snap throttle. if it does, there is a flow problem.

also, you have set the idle incorrectly. whenever setting idle, the iacv must first be disconnected or it will just counter your adjustment. that's why it went back up.
disconnect the iacv. with iacv disconnected, turn idle screw until idle sits at roughly 500rpm. reconnect iacv and clear code. idle should now be at roughly 750rpm.
i would probably do the idle adjust first before messing with the fuel pressure.

to test the tps, you want to do a sweep. with your voltmeter leads on referance ground and signal, throttle closed, should read roughly .5v. now sweep the throttle plate slowly. voltage should rise steadily to 4.5v WOT. what you want to see here is that voltage reads .5v throttle closed, and 4.5v WOT, and that there are no dead spots in between.

your injector code could be caused by a connection issue, as i believe the ecm samples voltage from them to determine if they are operable. i'd probably voltage drop test the connections, as this tests while running and the circuit has a load on it

 

thanks alot. lots of good ideas and info. im gonna try all that and report back

 

Ok i messed with it a little more earlier,

I found out the wires going to the tps sensor did not have good conectivity.
If you moved them the idle would drop significantly.
I soldered them for good connection but i still have code 7,

I figured out how to raise fuel pressure. Im looking for a stock fpr to replace this crappy ebay piece, but it did increase 10 psi with vaccum line pinched and dropped about 3 psi at snap throttles,

So now fuel pressure is about right, around 38-42 at idle id say.

Im also getting code 14, for iacv or bad ecm now. Idk why that could be, im gonna check to see if its getting 12v and what the resistance is.

After driving it today i am thinking it is in limp mode and am thinking it may be a bad fuel pump.

At idle it sounds good and you can rev it up but while driving the fuel cuts out.

I can hear the fuel pump priming and making a psss sound like something pressurized is leaving idk if this is normal.

Im going to try a used stock fpr and fuel pump and hopefully my blox tps will be here tmm.

And to be clear i am throwing. 7, 14 and 16 still.

 

did you go back and set the idle, as PER PROCEDURE?

 

When i unplug the iacv with the car running and the idle drops i just turn it up to 500 right?

 

Im almost positive its bad wiring somewhere because the car ran fine before i removed the wires that were spliced into the tps and secondary O2 sensor. They were going to an unconnected auto meter though and i didnt like wires being spliced into important sensor liek that so i removed them.

 

Also what impact does having a fitv block off plate have? should i install an fitv?

 

fitv is utilized for cold starts. you can run without it. just have to hold the idle up manually on cold starts.
yes. disconnect iacv. adjust to 500rpm. reconnect. CLEAR CODE.
are you certain it's the secondary o2 and not the primary?

 

That is how i did the second time but now my idle screw doesnt turn. I can see its a little stripped but i dont remember it being so hard to turn,

And yes i was talking about the primary, didnt realized obd1 had only

I think i might need to go get another clip for the tps because mine doesnt make a good click noise when connected.

Like before i can play with the tps and get the car the just about stall.

And yesterday the fuel pressure would be at around 40 for a couple seconds then dip to 30. almost like it was on a cylinder. It isnt doing it now though. cjould that just he a crappy ebay fpr?

A guy told me since im throwing all these codes the car might be in open loop

 

try disconnecting the o2 sensor. see if the driveabilty issue persists.
and yes, i would suspect the fpr of irregular pressures. which could also cause the driveability issues

so what is the idle set at now?

 

ok il try disconnecting the o2 and driving it.

And ya especially since its an ebay fpr.

It generally idles at about 800 +-50.

Cold itl idle around 1400, u can hear it surging but the tach doesnt move much. just enough to barely see it moving

At op temp it surges even less and after you drive it it almost never surges.

I really appreciate you helping me, it really sucks not being able to drive your new gsr lol.

 

so the idle is pretty much fine?

 

ya im not really concerned with it,

Its not going crazy up and down or idling really low or high,

Car is pretty much fine at idle even with throttle.

When the car is driving i have problems.

I am really thinking its the tps since i am clearly not getting the right amount of fuel.

And like i said if i play with the connector to the tps the car will just about die.

My new blox tps better me here tmm or someones getting neg feedback lol.

 

Also i dont know if this is really likely to happen but could the engines vibrations be causing the wires to move around causing a bad signal to the tps? I doubt it and as i type this it seems highly unlikely.

Anyway hopefully this new tps will help. if not then i gotta get a new tps connector from the junkyard.