!!!! MY 1995 civic ex is eating too much gas!!!!!
Recently got a 95 EG with a b20 swap (97 CRV) in there and it is eating a lot of gas.
I've drove in a CRV and it doesn't eat as much gas as my EG. In the morning when I go to school I have to hold the key for about 3-4 secs so it can start. I guess fuel pressure has to build up?? Maybe I need a fuel pump or fuel filter? Am I running rich or lean? Also the car has a oil pressure gauge and it works. Could that be of any problem? I just wanted to get a fun daily driver that would give me decent gas mileage. This car is eating a little too much gas. If there's any other info I need to tell you guys let me know so I can get some more MPG.
Thanks
I've drove in a CRV and it doesn't eat as much gas as my EG. In the morning when I go to school I have to hold the key for about 3-4 secs so it can start. I guess fuel pressure has to build up?? Maybe I need a fuel pump or fuel filter? Am I running rich or lean? Also the car has a oil pressure gauge and it works. Could that be of any problem? I just wanted to get a fun daily driver that would give me decent gas mileage. This car is eating a little too much gas. If there's any other info I need to tell you guys let me know so I can get some more MPG.
Thanks
Its a 2.0 liter engine, what was in there before was a D16z6 1.6L of course its going to eat more gas.
Fix the little problems you have now. Starting your car shouldnt involve 3-4 second start times.
You might have to put in a bigger fuel pump but, it sounds like you have more than one problem there.
Fix the little problems you have now. Starting your car shouldnt involve 3-4 second start times.
You might have to put in a bigger fuel pump but, it sounds like you have more than one problem there.
not sure what ecu is in there. I will take a look tonight when i get to the house.
but it does have DC headers, mugen twin loop exhaust, and thats all i can think of right now.
but it does have DC headers, mugen twin loop exhaust, and thats all i can think of right now.
fuel pumps have a check valve in em to keep fuel at the rail while the car is off, sounds like urs is going bad. My buddy has a b20vtec and he avg about 24 or 25mpg with a b16 trans. You never really told us what kind of milege ur getting other than its crappy. What trans do u have? is ur check engine light on? Changing ur driving style is the best way to improve milage. the b20s makes ton of torque from the get go and its so easy to use the torque to just cruise through the gears. I remember driving his, id b n like 3rd gear at 20mph and still have just as much go as my d in second. using torque uses gas
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I was told the car has the stock crv tranny. rebuilding a b16 tranny right now. but I only have to hold the key for 3-4 secs to start it when it sits a while. usually in the morning and the days I have class all day. As for MPG that I'm getting, its between 10-20 max. I also don't drive it like a maniac I just cruise to everywhere I go. I only pushed it twice since I got it. I am gonna give the car a good look over and a tune probably thursday.
I dont think u can use the crv trans but i could b wrong. whats the cel? u also need to figure out what ecu u have. U dont have to get on it with the b20 to produce torque, thats what i was saying. Its easy to just switch gears quick and use the 2litres torque to pull u right along and it eats up gas. go slower and stay n the gears longer with less throttle
Check engine light: Check
2.0 L engine: Check
Hard start: Check
Lets cut it to the basics. Engine light on throws the ecu into limp mode. It's designed to do that cause if you're out in bum **** nowhere and something messes up its better to ha e said part working 50% and get you home than work 100% for another 20ft before it fails completely.
2.0 L engine w/ hard starting. You're going to eat gas compared to say the VX, HF, HX. Hell even to the other 1.6l si's obviously. I'd say give it a full tune up: spark plugs and wires, air & fuel filter. I would first (prior to tune up) rent from autozone a compression tester. Get a valve job done too if nothing else fixes it. Check out your main relay for cracks in the solder. "How to" is also in the FAQs
Do tune up AFTER you check why the ecu's throwing a code. It may be something easy or so hard (for yourself seeing how you don't seem too mechanically inclined - sorry) that you may not want to **** with the car anymore and just sell it.
There should be a how to on how and where to grab the engine codes from in the FAQs
2.0 L engine: Check
Hard start: Check
Lets cut it to the basics. Engine light on throws the ecu into limp mode. It's designed to do that cause if you're out in bum **** nowhere and something messes up its better to ha e said part working 50% and get you home than work 100% for another 20ft before it fails completely.
2.0 L engine w/ hard starting. You're going to eat gas compared to say the VX, HF, HX. Hell even to the other 1.6l si's obviously. I'd say give it a full tune up: spark plugs and wires, air & fuel filter. I would first (prior to tune up) rent from autozone a compression tester. Get a valve job done too if nothing else fixes it. Check out your main relay for cracks in the solder. "How to" is also in the FAQs
Do tune up AFTER you check why the ecu's throwing a code. It may be something easy or so hard (for yourself seeing how you don't seem too mechanically inclined - sorry) that you may not want to **** with the car anymore and just sell it.
There should be a how to on how and where to grab the engine codes from in the FAQs
ok. found some time off to find out the CEL codes.
its giving me the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) and ECT ( engine coolant Temp.)
ok well, my speedometer is reading fine so is there any other way to test my VSS?
its giving me the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) and ECT ( engine coolant Temp.)
ok well, my speedometer is reading fine so is there any other way to test my VSS?
my first step would be to check the Coolant temp sensor...you can test resistance and see what temp it correlates to. a back yard way to do it is to take a multimeter when the engine is cold and prob the pins on the cts...then warm the car up (shut it off) pull the pigtail off the cts and prob the pins again. there should be significantly less resistance. If my memory serves me right the cts that inputs to the ecu (the one causing the code) is on the side of the head (below the distributor), right of the 1 pin coolant temp sensor that goes to the ct gauge.
As far as upgrading the fuel pump I wouldn't play with that until the coolant temp sensor issue is fixed.
As far as upgrading the fuel pump I wouldn't play with that until the coolant temp sensor issue is fixed.
also remember that the fuel tank on a 97 crv is 16.4 gallons to your 10.7 in a ej1 if you are taking the total distance you are traveling into consideration dont with your ecu i faced a similar problem the ecu was not throwing the proper code unplug it take the covers off to see if any or the chips have burn marks on them if so you need a new ecu but check on both sides of the ecu.
most likely throwing a o2 sensor cel ... o2 censors go bad and will have your car wasting massive amounts of gas for no reason ... but thats an assumption ... cel should be the first thing you look into before spending time and money replacing **** that doesnt need to be fixed ...
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