My D16Z6 won't start when hot
After doing my grocery and Gavin the car sit for a few minutes the car won't start, the engine wil turn, but no fire, I have to literally wait until the car is cold again before it starts
^^^ also my guess, do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ign. switch?
When engine will not start, turn ign. switch to the run position, [not all the way to start] and listen for the fuel pump priming, [running for a few sec.] if you do not hear the fuel pump, the problem is most likely the PGM-FI Main Relay. 94
When engine will not start, turn ign. switch to the run position, [not all the way to start] and listen for the fuel pump priming, [running for a few sec.] if you do not hear the fuel pump, the problem is most likely the PGM-FI Main Relay. 94
Main relay was replaced 5 months ago, and the fuel primes, I can hear it when the key is turned to run position. The distributor is also replaced, i have lifetime warranty,I tried starting it this morning and it won't start now, what could it be? Can't think of anything else
You need to check to see what is missing, fuel or spark or compression.
Even though the fuel pump primes you may not have fuel, injectors may not be working, [no power or no ground pulse from ECU/ECM], easy enough to check, try starting the engine a few times then immediately remove a spark plug and inspect the end, is it "wet" with gas, does it smell of gas, if you put a light, [match/lighter] to it will it burn?
To check for spark use an HEI spark tester or at the very least pull a spark plug lead and plug a spark plug into it, ground the plug and have someone crank the engine, or if you are alone, do a bypass jump. 94
Even though the fuel pump primes you may not have fuel, injectors may not be working, [no power or no ground pulse from ECU/ECM], easy enough to check, try starting the engine a few times then immediately remove a spark plug and inspect the end, is it "wet" with gas, does it smell of gas, if you put a light, [match/lighter] to it will it burn?
To check for spark use an HEI spark tester or at the very least pull a spark plug lead and plug a spark plug into it, ground the plug and have someone crank the engine, or if you are alone, do a bypass jump. 94
the spark plug seems wet, but looks oily, I am doing a compression test tomorrow. If the compression is low, would you still be able to start the car?, because when the car first started acting up, I was able to start it if I let it keep cranking for literally one whole minute, then it will start, but it will start really slow, kinda bogging a little and then engine will run fine,
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After compression check:
Cylinder 1- 90,120,140,169
Cylinder 2- 70,100,120,140
Cylinder 3- 70,100,120,149
Cylinder 4- 70,120,150,165
** I also noticed presence of coolant on cylinder 4, as it squirted out while testing cylinder one, no more squirted out after the initial squirt
There was no misfire when the motor was running
Cylinder 1- 90,120,140,169
Cylinder 2- 70,100,120,140
Cylinder 3- 70,100,120,149
Cylinder 4- 70,120,150,165
** I also noticed presence of coolant on cylinder 4, as it squirted out while testing cylinder one, no more squirted out after the initial squirt
There was no misfire when the motor was running
Numbers are way off, did you do the compression test with a warm engine and the throttle wide open?
184 is "spec", 175-180 is good, with no more then 28 psi diff. between cylinders.
169 and 140 = 29 psi diff. not a lot but over the limit, this assumes the test was done properly.
Also the PSI is less important then the diff. between cylinders as diff. compression testers will read differently on the same engine.
However, coolant in a cylinder means a HG problem most likely.
So question is, was the compression test done properly? 94
184 is "spec", 175-180 is good, with no more then 28 psi diff. between cylinders.
169 and 140 = 29 psi diff. not a lot but over the limit, this assumes the test was done properly.
Also the PSI is less important then the diff. between cylinders as diff. compression testers will read differently on the same engine.
However, coolant in a cylinder means a HG problem most likely.
So question is, was the compression test done properly? 94
Numbers are way off, did you do the compression test with a warm engine and the throttle wide open?
184 is "spec", 175-180 is good, with no more then 28 psi diff. between cylinders.
169 and 140 = 29 psi diff. not a lot but over the limit, this assumes the test was done properly.
Also the PSI is less important then the diff. between cylinders as diff. compression testers will read differently on the same engine.
However, coolant in a cylinder means a HG problem most likely.
So question is, was the compression test done properly? 94
184 is "spec", 175-180 is good, with no more then 28 psi diff. between cylinders.
169 and 140 = 29 psi diff. not a lot but over the limit, this assumes the test was done properly.
Also the PSI is less important then the diff. between cylinders as diff. compression testers will read differently on the same engine.
However, coolant in a cylinder means a HG problem most likely.
So question is, was the compression test done properly? 94
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