Just recently purchased 97 V, driven from Philly to Boston, no problems. She was strong all the way through. She has been parked since...

1st update replaced cabin air filter (STP), nasty!

As I did the change the car was running w/heat on, I was cold.
Removed old filter w/heat off/car turn off. Vacuumed turned heat on w/ACC on, shut it off and continued to vacuum.
I try'd to turn the car over and she didn't want to turn. She finally turned over, but she seemed to be choking. When she starts she idles semi smooth, but when I try to accelerate, she shuts down. What gives
Did something get caught when the filter was removed and blower on?

Checked spark plugs they fine...

 

Any issues you're having with the engine are entirely unrelated to the blower or cabin filter, that's for sure.

 

it must be the ignition coil located inside the oem cabin air filter........yeah....idk. i couldnt think of anything more ridiculous.

 

Giving the fact that im not a mechanic, i appreciate your insight.

 

Giving the fact that im not a mechanic, i appreciate your insight.

Does the IACV have any correlation?

 

any codes? engine check light on?

 

You were right by the ecu and wireing, so hopefully you didnt catch anything.

 

I haven't checked the codes because the car is currently not insured--can not drive--no tools to check codes. Wish I had an OBDI, unless there is another way....
NO check engine light. Best

 

I will double back my install, but I'm pretty sure I was real careful. Best

 

My radiator has been cracked since the drive and leaking--9/29, she was topped off before the drive and has not been topped off since 9/29.
Could it be the ecu is reading low coolant and trying to fluctuate by engaging automatic shut down between 400-700rpm(when accelerated)--from the ICAV?
On automatic vehicles--radiator coolant feeds transmission correct?
Were assumming radiator is low...
Any thoughts

 

TTT

 

After radiator change, new hoses, thermostat change and bleeding the system. She turns over but once warmed up enough and put into drive or reverse she shuts down. Then I try to start her again and I hear the exhaust backfiring and but no start - wanting to start but nothing.
Can anyone throw some suggestions...

 

I replaced the old battery, it failed diagnostic test.
She turned over fast with the new battery. I'm able to move her when she is cold.
When the car is warm and turned off, she doesn't turn on right away (struggles). If she turns over, she stays on at idle, but when acceleration/put in drive or reverse, she chokes and shuts off.
HELP

 

As much as we would like to help, your lack of automotive vehicle diagnostics will make this a shot in the dark, and may cost you more useless spending by not being able to diagnose it properly. Sometimes its better to pay the piper until your basic automotive knowledge is increased. May save you alot of money and especially time.

Sorry.

 

Well said. Let me add to the purity of knowledge; unless you have another suggestion about the vehicle mentioned, then its best you keep your car advice at a minimum, rather than speaking for a community of "lacking", knowledgeable guru's that may have an answer. Thanks for your input.
I will be checking codes next. Keep you all posted. Best

 

Check to see if you have a vacuum leak, around your intake manifold, also could be a clogged catalytic converter check for code P420...remove the iacv and give it a cleaning with some carb cleaner. Do a search on how to check engine codes it's really...here you go it's for integra/civic's but it's the same concept. https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/ Check all your ground wires, the one that is bolted on to the thermostat housing seems to cause problems often, also the one that goes from tranny to frame, check for rust around the contact area, use a wire brush to get rid of any rust.