steering wheel shakes
My Steering wheel shakes when i hit/tap the breaks when i'm going over about 40mph... do you know what is causing this? Could it be my rotors?? nothing else shakes just the steering wheel?
also my car is at 66000 miles and the maintence required light just came on, why?
also my car is at 66000 miles and the maintence required light just came on, why?
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My Steering wheel shakes when i hit/tap the breaks when i'm going over about 40mph... do you know what is causing this? Could it be my rotors?? nothing else shakes just the steering wheel?
also my car is at 66000 miles and the maintence required light just came on, why?
also my car is at 66000 miles and the maintence required light just came on, why?
[Modified by garados, 5:08 PM 10/17/2002]
The rotors are probably warped. The maintainance light doesn't mean anything. It can be reset, but you might want to do your regular stuff if you haven't yet: change oil, filter, and maybe the timing belt if you drive the car hard. HTH
[Modified by garados, 5:08 PM 10/17/2002]
[Modified by garados, 5:08 PM 10/17/2002]
Rotors Warped
mine did the same thing, everytime i brake, my steering wheel shakes like crazy. I thought it maybe my rotors but i added a little brake fluid ( dot 3 ) just to see first and right now i brake alot better without shaking. try doing that first, if doesnt work then get some new rotors. just touch your rotor at the edge and see if its sharp, if it is then you need some new ones. If you dont wanna buy new ones just go get it resurfaced to straight out the rotors, you'll be good to go but eventually in the long run you'll need some rotors.
how much do new rotors run?... and how can i till which one it is? or is it both of them?
I run them on the track.
since you're on the verge of buying new rotors go get some brembo crossed drilled and slotted. a pair of front ones go for like $90-120. if you're so cal hit me up. i'll help you get a set.
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just touch your rotor at the edge and see if its sharp, if it is then you need some new ones.
I had the same problem so I changed all four rotors, pads and passenger side axle. When the mechanic test drove the car, the shaking got worse. We smelt and saw smoke coming from one of the brakes. This problem ended up being a bad caliper. Get your entire brake system checked out ASAP. Your life is more important than a piece of metal!
Hopefully this can help you out.
Hopefully this can help you out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow99gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sometimes your wheel will shake if your tires are not properly balanced</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats correct
after rotating my back tires to front my car shaked after 55ish then i got them balanced and it went away, brakes are warped only if you stop and it shakes, if car shakes when your going about 55ish and above you need to balance your tires
thats correct
after rotating my back tires to front my car shaked after 55ish then i got them balanced and it went away, brakes are warped only if you stop and it shakes, if car shakes when your going about 55ish and above you need to balance your tires
i have to mention once again, i work at a brake/muffler shop...the shaking is most likely (as mentioned before) the rotors being warped. overtightening studs does not cause the rotors to get warped, that is a silly misconception. if you have a loose lug while the others are snug, that will cause the rotating assembly to become unbalanced and eventually might warp the rotor. You would have to drive a long time like this for it to become a factor. If the pulse is pretty bad, you are better off getting new rotors as apposed to getting them resurfaced. Slotted rotors are your best bet if you plan on road racing some, but for general all purpose a good blank will be adequate. What ever you do..STAY AWAY FROM DRILLED ROTORS!! I emphasize this because i cant tell you how many kids come in with cracked rotors. the drilling process weakens the integrity of the rotor. hope this helped
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