Ok so I finally got my car BAR'ed about a month ago, however I have had a longrunning idle issue for as long as I can remember. Now that I think of it I believe it started doing it before I even did the swap, but I'm not certain.

So anyway, I fixed my car. It runs absolutely magnificently. The only issue I've had is this. When I was reset the ecu and set my base idle correctly, it would idle real low, even lower than the base idle, when I would plug the iacv back in, I set which was around 600 or so. It would also dip when I let off the throttle to like 500 or so then retreat up to 1000 and then back down to like 600. Then when I put a load on it, for example headlights it would not bump up to make up for the load, it would actually go down lower than with no load. This would normally happen after I started the car. Then after driving it for a little bit it would seem like it wanted to idle up at 750 but it's like it would bleed off. Then with the headlights on it would actually loop from 600 to 800. It would go up to 800 then bleed off to 600 then loop back to 800 over and over again. This was driving me bananas. So I decided to check voltage it always is at full charge, even with absolutely no load so I got to thinking that something must be up with the control circuit.

Now the way its supposed to work is the ELD tells the ecu that there is a load so the ecu tells the alternator to turn on and the alternator, in turn, tells the ecu that it is turned on like it's supposed to. The ecu during this time, bumps up the idle, depending on load. My car never did this. My car never charges less than 14.30 except with a complete full load. Previously I have rebled my coolant, checked, rechecked all vacuum lines and pullled throttle body numerous times and I know the throttle plate set crew is still at its factor level since the yellow factory paint is still there so I knew it had to be good there. My iacv is new, my fitv is new. All gaskets are new.

So anyway, I took off the connector at the alternator and looked it. It was all caked up with dialectic grease. This is the same stuff that was preventing a connection with my Toyota's neutral safety switch so I bought some brake cleaner and used a paperclip and Q-tip and after disconnecting the negative battery terminal I sprayed the **** out of it and cleaned it out best I could, the alternator connector and the alternator connection on the alternator, there are four prongs. Then I put it back together and drove it from a cold start. After coming to stop off the freeway I noticed that the idle was around 1200 or so steady even though the car was warmed up. It was weird that it wasn't looping like it was supposed since the injectors should be cutting off So I shut it off and pulled the iacv and set base idle. This was strange because I had to turn it in about one and a half turns but I set it to 550 and turned it off and pulled the 7.5 backup and plugged the iacv back in and started it and this time idle is perfect. Best of all, it even bumps up with load. For as long as I have this car I can not even remember the ecu actually doing this correctly.

This was a longwinded post but I would suggest anyone that reads this to pull the alternator connector and do the same procedure. It could really help. That dialectic grease, actually isn't conductive, however it should allow conductivity since the grease is so thin, however over time this grease gets old and somewhat harder in nature, and actually prevents a good connection.

 

Makes perfect sense.
As our cars age, the electrical connections deteriorate and create all sorts of problems.
It would not be a bad idea to do that to as many plugs as possible. Clean them well.