Feeler gauger recommended based on your experience?
i was thinking about removing head block (cylinder block) to replace the head gasket then put it back on, using a feeler gauge as my friend told me about adjusting valve on head block. i'm still uncertain. i read on my manual about feeler gauge. hmm is it necessary when i replace the head gasket? this month i bought a new radiator, hose sets, thermostat, water pump and timing belt. if it didn't solve then is it head gasket then? last month i was lucky i arrived at my friend's home in ohio (new home) from montana all way driving it until i arrived in ohio, waiting for my friend to meet me at a resturant (that was back when my car was still good, then we chatted, then my friend haven't drive it then started a engine, ready to go home, that when i saw a little steamed, i told him to turn it off, and i pop up hood. i saw coolant recovery (resouiver) was like..overflowing out from inside. i know i can do fix it since i have read on manual and youtube for DIY. my engine is d16y7 97 Honda civic dx 2dr
feeler gauges are only used really to adjust valve lash on our cars.
that isn't really part of doing a headgasket. if it hasn't been done in 100k miles --id do it personally (adjust vavle lash) and yes...your issue sounds like a HG to me.
as for feeler gauges, I got a set at harbor freight for 8 bucks. work like a charm for me.
that isn't really part of doing a headgasket. if it hasn't been done in 100k miles --id do it personally (adjust vavle lash) and yes...your issue sounds like a HG to me.
as for feeler gauges, I got a set at harbor freight for 8 bucks. work like a charm for me.
feeler gauges are only used really to adjust valve lash on our cars.
that isn't really part of doing a headgasket. if it hasn't been done in 100k miles --id do it personally (adjust vavle lash) and yes...your issue sounds like a HG to me.
as for feeler gauges, I got a set at harbor freight for 8 bucks. work like a charm for me.
that isn't really part of doing a headgasket. if it hasn't been done in 100k miles --id do it personally (adjust vavle lash) and yes...your issue sounds like a HG to me.
as for feeler gauges, I got a set at harbor freight for 8 bucks. work like a charm for me.
Replacing the head gasket, IM gasket and exhaust manifold gasket can be time consuming, especially if you haven't done it before. Just take your time and read ALL instructions in the service manual. Use good gaskets (so you don't have to do it again anytime soon), and don't reuse head bolts (buy new OEM ones. They're like $5 bucks a piece). Have the cylinder head resurfaced at a reputable machine shop too.
After you're all done putting everything back together, THEN run a valve adjustment. After removing and reinstalling your rocker arm assembly and camshaft, your valve lash has a tendency to get out of wack. Just go buy a valve tappet feeler gauge set at any autoparts store. They're cheap (like less than $5 bucks) and effective, and you can use them for other stuff too.
After you're all done putting everything back together, THEN run a valve adjustment. After removing and reinstalling your rocker arm assembly and camshaft, your valve lash has a tendency to get out of wack. Just go buy a valve tappet feeler gauge set at any autoparts store. They're cheap (like less than $5 bucks) and effective, and you can use them for other stuff too.
Replacing the head gasket, IM gasket and exhaust manifold gasket can be time consuming, especially if you haven't done it before. Just take your time and read ALL instructions in the service manual. Use good gaskets (so you don't have to do it again anytime soon), and don't reuse head bolts (buy new OEM ones. They're like $5 bucks a piece). Have the cylinder head resurfaced at a reputable machine shop too.
After you're all done putting everything back together, THEN run a valve adjustment. After removing and reinstalling your rocker arm assembly and camshaft, your valve lash has a tendency to get out of wack. Just go buy a valve tappet feeler gauge set at any autoparts store. They're cheap (like less than $5 bucks) and effective, and you can use them for other stuff too.
After you're all done putting everything back together, THEN run a valve adjustment. After removing and reinstalling your rocker arm assembly and camshaft, your valve lash has a tendency to get out of wack. Just go buy a valve tappet feeler gauge set at any autoparts store. They're cheap (like less than $5 bucks) and effective, and you can use them for other stuff too.
oem headbolts come from any oem source. I got a set not too long ago and paid 90, but I got them directly from a stealership b/c I needed them asap. Try majestic honda or some online discounter.
if you can do a timing belt...you can do a headgasket. If you search theres plenty of write ups to follow. Its basically, remove everything from the head, all sensors/wires/etc. Get it bare, yank it off, clean off old HG, install new HG and reattach everything. It isn't hard, it is time consuming. I can do one in about 4.5 hours myself and thats with taking my time. If its your first plan for 6 hours. Maybe you get it done quicker, maybe it takes longer. The time guides are a pain in the butt. It never goes smoothly. Maybe you break a bolt, that adds an hour on- maybe you need a wrench/bolt whatever...adds time.
If you have every part you need, and no lost time for missing tools/parts/breaks etc you will probably be done around 4 hours.
if you can do a timing belt...you can do a headgasket. If you search theres plenty of write ups to follow. Its basically, remove everything from the head, all sensors/wires/etc. Get it bare, yank it off, clean off old HG, install new HG and reattach everything. It isn't hard, it is time consuming. I can do one in about 4.5 hours myself and thats with taking my time. If its your first plan for 6 hours. Maybe you get it done quicker, maybe it takes longer. The time guides are a pain in the butt. It never goes smoothly. Maybe you break a bolt, that adds an hour on- maybe you need a wrench/bolt whatever...adds time.
If you have every part you need, and no lost time for missing tools/parts/breaks etc you will probably be done around 4 hours.
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where can i find a new OEM head-bolts? i have looked on ebay they're 80 bucks. you said each 5 buck a piece.
oem headbolts come from any oem source. I got a set not too long ago and paid 90, but I got them directly from a stealership b/c I needed them asap. Try majestic honda or some online discounter.
if you can do a timing belt...you can do a headgasket. If you search theres plenty of write ups to follow. Its basically, remove everything from the head, all sensors/wires/etc. Get it bare, yank it off, clean off old HG, install new HG and reattach everything. It isn't hard, it is time consuming. I can do one in about 4.5 hours myself and thats with taking my time. If its your first plan for 6 hours. Maybe you get it done quicker, maybe it takes longer. The time guides are a pain in the butt. It never goes smoothly. Maybe you break a bolt, that adds an hour on- maybe you need a wrench/bolt whatever...adds time.
If you have every part you need, and no lost time for missing tools/parts/breaks etc you will probably be done around 4 hours.
if you can do a timing belt...you can do a headgasket. If you search theres plenty of write ups to follow. Its basically, remove everything from the head, all sensors/wires/etc. Get it bare, yank it off, clean off old HG, install new HG and reattach everything. It isn't hard, it is time consuming. I can do one in about 4.5 hours myself and thats with taking my time. If its your first plan for 6 hours. Maybe you get it done quicker, maybe it takes longer. The time guides are a pain in the butt. It never goes smoothly. Maybe you break a bolt, that adds an hour on- maybe you need a wrench/bolt whatever...adds time.
If you have every part you need, and no lost time for missing tools/parts/breaks etc you will probably be done around 4 hours.
And count on the machine shop possibly keeping the cylinder head overnight for the resurface, depending on how many other jobs they have lined up before yours.
Well, okay, D15B7 head bolts are roughly $5 bucks. Your engine's bolts might be a little more. Check Majestic Honda.
Also, you might want to opt for really nice aftermarket head gasket (like Fel-Pro's PermaTorque MLS line). Some are reinforced, so you probably won't need to touch the head gasket again for as long as you own the vehicle.
And count on the machine shop possibly keeping the cylinder head overnight for the resurface, depending on how many other jobs they have lined up before yours.
Also, you might want to opt for really nice aftermarket head gasket (like Fel-Pro's PermaTorque MLS line). Some are reinforced, so you probably won't need to touch the head gasket again for as long as you own the vehicle.
And count on the machine shop possibly keeping the cylinder head overnight for the resurface, depending on how many other jobs they have lined up before yours.
is this the right site?? http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EAD+%28SOHC%29
um reinforced head gasket sound good. if it is for daily driving and road trip then i can do that, if it can last longer then i can get that i suppose. i wonder how much it cost to get head block resurfaced from machine shop??
is this the right site?? http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EAD+%28SOHC%29
um reinforced head gasket sound good. if it is for daily driving and road trip then i can do that, if it can last longer then i can get that i suppose. i wonder how much it cost to get head block resurfaced from machine shop??
um reinforced head gasket sound good. if it is for daily driving and road trip then i can do that, if it can last longer then i can get that i suppose. i wonder how much it cost to get head block resurfaced from machine shop??
I'd definitely recommend a reinforced head gasket, if you plan on keeping the car for a while anyway. Something like this one http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=446762
Having the head resurfaced really depends on the shop. The one near here did mine for $45 dollars, but shops near you might be higher or lower. You might also want to consider asking the shop to resurface the intake manifold mating surface, if you want to err on the side of caution. Just make sure you remove the rocker arm assembly, camshaft, all studs and dowel pins before you take it to them. Otherwise, they'll send you home or charge you extra.
Yes, that's the site. And your head bolts are dirt cheap. $2 bucks a piece!
I'd definitely recommend a reinforced head gasket, if you plan on keeping the car for a while anyway. Something like this one http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=446762
Having the head resurfaced really depends on the shop. The one near here did mine for $45 dollars, but shops near you might be higher or lower. You might also want to consider asking the shop to resurface the intake manifold mating surface, if you want to err on the side of caution. Just make sure you remove the rocker arm assembly, camshaft, all studs and dowel pins before you take it to them. Otherwise, they'll send you home or charge you extra.
I'd definitely recommend a reinforced head gasket, if you plan on keeping the car for a while anyway. Something like this one http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=446762
Having the head resurfaced really depends on the shop. The one near here did mine for $45 dollars, but shops near you might be higher or lower. You might also want to consider asking the shop to resurface the intake manifold mating surface, if you want to err on the side of caution. Just make sure you remove the rocker arm assembly, camshaft, all studs and dowel pins before you take it to them. Otherwise, they'll send you home or charge you extra.
There probably is a machine shop somewhere near you. They're everywhere. Mechanics have to get stuff machined/pressed somewhere, right?
You don't have to disassemble the entire rocker arm assembly. You just remove the cam holder bolts, work it loose with a flathead and pull the whole rocker assembly out while holding it on both ends as if it were one piece. After that, the camshaft just lifts right out. Make sure you have some cardboard or a folded up towel or something to set it on because it's going to be dripping some oil.
The loosening and tightening sequence for the cam holder bolts and head bolts will be in the service manual. So will the torque specs. You'll definitely want to get a torque wrench and shop manual for this job, if you don't already have those.
You don't have to disassemble the entire rocker arm assembly. You just remove the cam holder bolts, work it loose with a flathead and pull the whole rocker assembly out while holding it on both ends as if it were one piece. After that, the camshaft just lifts right out. Make sure you have some cardboard or a folded up towel or something to set it on because it's going to be dripping some oil.
The loosening and tightening sequence for the cam holder bolts and head bolts will be in the service manual. So will the torque specs. You'll definitely want to get a torque wrench and shop manual for this job, if you don't already have those.
There probably is a machine shop somewhere near you. They're everywhere. Mechanics have to get stuff machined/pressed somewhere, right?
You don't have to disassemble the entire rocker arm assembly. You just remove the cam holder bolts, work it loose with a flathead and pull the whole rocker assembly out while holding it on both ends as if it were one piece. After that, the camshaft just lifts right out. Make sure you have some cardboard or a folded up towel or something to set it on because it's going to be dripping some oil.
The loosening and tightening sequence for the cam holder bolts and head bolts will be in the service manual. So will the torque specs. You'll definitely want to get a torque wrench and shop manual for this job, if you don't already have those.
You don't have to disassemble the entire rocker arm assembly. You just remove the cam holder bolts, work it loose with a flathead and pull the whole rocker assembly out while holding it on both ends as if it were one piece. After that, the camshaft just lifts right out. Make sure you have some cardboard or a folded up towel or something to set it on because it's going to be dripping some oil.
The loosening and tightening sequence for the cam holder bolts and head bolts will be in the service manual. So will the torque specs. You'll definitely want to get a torque wrench and shop manual for this job, if you don't already have those.
the weekend is coming yay cant wait to get my crank pulley tool. rme
call up your local napa ---Ive seen some in the northeast (ohio is close enough) have sister machine shops under the napa name. If they dont have a machine shop...they will for sure know wheres the closest one.
thanks for the suggestion. i was thinking about buy a used cylinder head block from ebay, and i can use it as a back up or just in case?
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Rick1t
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Oct 1, 2013 06:51 PM



