I've been dealing with starting issues on my '93 Accord EX for some time now, and after reading many threads here and noting that my car had the same symptoms relating to a bad main relay, and doing a little more research, all signs pointed to this being my problem.

Yesterday I finally had enough after the car stalled twice on the way home (which has never happened before). I replaced the relay with a used one and it started just fine. Drove for a couple of miles and it ran smoothly. I pulled back into the garage and put everything back together then tried to start it up again but it would not start.

With the old, bad relay, it would just crank and crank and not fire. Never had a problem with the battery. However this time the power just kept getting weaker and weaker and would not even turn over. I got it hooked up to a charger now, but this really confuses me because this never happened with previous no-starts. Anyone have any theories?

 

Have your battery tested. It may just finally be going out.

 

I charged the battery and now it works just fine. The main relay must have been defective so I just brought it back and swapped it for another one.

I think the problem I'm having with it acting like its going to stall out is the o2 sensor (again). I had this problem late last year and replaced it with a salvage yard pull and it worked just fine until 2 days ago. So I pulled another o2 from a salvage car and its still sputtering out/rpms randomly jumping up to 3000 after about 10 minutes of driving.

Is it possible I'm just having really bad luck with parts and just got a bad sensor or could it be something else?

 

for engine management like o2 sensors and ignition components i always go New and OEM.

You should be able to get a new DENSO part for 50 bucks or so.
check www.densoaftermarket.com for part numbers and get the right one from Amazon

for your MAIN relay all you need to do is resolder the solder joints

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

 

I actually used this quick fix on my old relay and it seemed to work:
http://techautorepairs.com/images/kyi.gif

but I was already at the salvage yard today so I just grabbed one for $3 since I haven't driven on the old "fixed" one long enough to determine if it will continue to work. If anything I'll just re-solder it if the replacement craps out.

 

Well now it is stalling out again. Went for a short drive and within 5 minutes it sputtered out and stalled. Managed to get home ok without it dying on me again, but this is the exactly the same thing it was doing 3 days ago before I worked on it.

I knew the main relay need to be replaced anyway, so I doubt this has anything to do with it. What else might have similar symptoms to a bad o2 sensor, that might cause this? I really just hope it was just an unlucky pull and a new o2 will fix it, but who knows.

 

does it stall with your foot on the gas or off the gas?

 

You should check for an exhaust leak. Try running some seafoam and look over the exhaust for white smoke coming from the exhaust manifold and A pipe.

 

Can anyone provide a picture of which relay is the "main" relay? 3 of 4 links in the FAQ for the relay are broken and the one that works is a generic about.com link.

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

 

it only stalls completely with my foot off the gas, however it does sputter with my foot on the gas.

I got a CEL code 43 (Fuel supply system). Alot a people on here are claiming to get that same code after putting all new parts on their cars.

 

check fuel pressure and injectors

 

Check for exhaust leaks and replace your oxygen sensor with a Denso. You talk about new parts, if you put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, that could cause too much or too little pressure.

 

I'm gonna try this today. Where is the best place to pour it? which vacuum hose?

 

A couple more more questions...

Where exactly is the fuel pressure regulator located?

and, how do I remove the back seat in case I have to replace the fuel pump?

...because now I'm thinking it might be the pump. The new(used) relay is clicking like its supposed to but I'm not getting that few seconds of "whirring" sounds that the fuel pump is supposed to be making.

 

Also, I did this test since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge:

so the fuel injectors are operating, according to this.

 

Welp...ran the seafoam yeasterday and there are not exhaust leaks but after not starting it since yesterday afternoon, the battery is now dead again. Does anybody know if something in my fuel system could be draining the power from it?

 

The best time to check for exhaust leaks is on a cold start. The best place is the brake booster line that runs in the back of the intake manifold. Just take off the hose at the first brake hose clamp where the check valve is and pour the seafoam into that hose. When the exhaust is cold a leak will be slightly bigger than when the exhaust is hot. Also on a cold start the engine won't do a surge when you create a vacuum leak.

If you find you have absolutely no exhaust leaks then I would first replace the oxygen sensor. You can check your spark plugs just to verify that they aren't fuel fouled first if you want.

To check for steady fuel pressure if you have a harbor freight in your area you can use this...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...=fuel+pressure

There's a video on youtube by eric the car guy to help check for a parasitic draw.

 

Thanks, holmesnmanny, I really appreciate the help. I already ran the seafoam a few days ago while the engine was warm (as per the instructions on the bottle) but I have enough left to run it cold next time. I'm assuming I did the right thing by re-attaching the hose at the brake booster line before starting the engine?

The battery is dying a slow death but its still starting and I haven't gotten a CEL for 2 days now. I did however jumper the blue plug and got 4 blinks on the d4.

It's still sputtering out and stalling at times. I'm almost convinced it is the o2 sensor again.

 

code 4 on D4 points to the lock up clutch not engaging:

possible causes: disconnected vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector
short or open in VSS wire
faulty VSS

 

Replaced the o2 sensor again today and it is pretty much doing the same thing as before.

is it possible that I might just have a clogged or bad fuel filter?

 

do you hear the fuel pump whirring in the back of the car and then stopping when you turn it to the on position (the position right before start)?

 

Yes. And I just drove it for 15 minutes or so without it sputtering but as soon as I pulled in the driveway the CEL came on for the first time since thursday (the 11th) and I got a code 43 again.

also, when I said "it is pretty much doing the same thing as before" in my previous post, it only sputtered once for like 2 seconds about a half-mile from my house and ran ok after that.

 

code 43:

o2 sensor or bad fuel pressure. Did you use a NEW DENSO o2 sensor to replace?

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...-problem-3331/

 

it is a possibility

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...de-43-a-35236/