ok so i have bought a 95 accord wagon with h22a motor swap and a f22 auto trans and i have just about all maintence done(more than i expected) now im interested in makin it fast.

first question. i have a po6 ecu sittin on side would it be better to chip this ecu so i always have a stock one if my tune is off this is what ive been told or will it still not run right stock settings with aftermarket parts of which you will understand in next question.

second questions. ok so i have all new spark system pretty much only performance i have done. i have a hp fuel pump givin to me and i would like to cam this thing. from what i understand all has to do with angles on camshafts. so how far can i push this having no head work. also trying to stay economical im 19 work at walmart nothin to big going on atleast not at once. so i would like to do cams springs valves fuel rail injectors and cam gears. anyone have experiance they have 60$ cam gear knock off brand are they suffeciend or do i have to spend big bucks on gears? sounds dumb to me but idk

also was planning on doing moates programmer route learning software on my own

give me your opinions thanks for help

ide like to do setup all at one time can this be done around a grand to 1500
and what increases do you think i will see

 

i would like to do all motor thing here what i was thinking after a do that slowly aquire bolt on pieces and maybe by then a had blown head ect and decide to build lower half engine

 

maybe i put to many questions in one post cuts off at 115mph is this in my ecu

 

please help

 

First the easy one, the speed limiter is probably your ecu, as they limit at around that speed in JDM ecus. If you want to use the P06 ecu, it will need VTEC components added, but is not a bad choice. My Hondata is in a P06 ecu.


For the head work, if you want to do cams, you probably needs springs and retainers, which will probably put you close to $1000 for those 3 items. If you want to do valves, it requires taking the head off, and should have the valves cut to seat in the head, so 300+ for machine shop work, and a new head gasket, and head studs right there.

Honestly, if you are on a tight budget, I would leave the engine fairly stock, tune it with external bolt-ons, but leave the internals alone, as the factory setup is well designed and reliable. Down the road, if you have extra time and money, then maybe build the engine internally.

Also keep in mind the cost of downtime to work on the car and fix anything that may break as you push it more, and having another car to rely on is always a good idea.

 

Ditch the slush box for a manual would be my first move...

 

so are valves neccassary in this mod just askin

 

here how i see it and someone please correct me if the way i look at this is wrong. i could go cams & springs ,retainers fuel injectors all in one jump. then i could slowly add bolt ons since well one or 2 of these a year could be more easily financed. then if i ever decided to do head work could do valves at same time?
what size fuel injectors and cams would you go with

 

Since you won't really have the supporting mods anyway, my suggestions would be to go for a mild cam that won't necessitate springs & retainers; but do grab some adjustable cam gears. For injectors, the injector dynamics seem to be pretty popular; don't be alarmed by the sizes, they are reported to still idle well (a 750 I think is the smallest they make). Spend some money on a good tuning platform and get it tuned. You should still have enough to get a decent exhaust done minus the header. If you want you could get a new (better) collector welded on your stock header and then get a high-flowing cat and mandrel bent exhaust with muffler of your choice. That will pretty well use up your funds, but should net a decent setup.