Hello,

As of late I've noticed that a loud squeal noise is coming from the brakes. I had a repair shop check the brakes and they said the rear caliper is sticking and recommeded that both rear be replaced. They also recommended that the rotors (all 4) and pads be replaced. Before I get a 2nd opinion I wanted to know what's the best place to buy these parts if it's true that they need to be rpelaced?

Thanks,
Troy

 

Replacing the rotors is very costly...I would strongly suggest just getting them cut. Most likely they are trying to tell you the rotors need to be replaced because they are "below safety" - meaning, they are worn to a point where they are too thin to be machined again.

It's been my experience that when shops tell you this, they usually aren't being very honest.

I would borrow a dial gauge and measure the thickness just to make sure they are being honest. If you do need rotors, I would attempt to find used rotors at a junkyard - they are going to cut anyway, so if you find a thick enough set, you will be fine.

Hope that helps, keep us posted.

 

Are you sure the squeal is coming from the rear and not the front? It might just be brake dust and cheap pads installed. Also the lubing is going over time and the vibration cause the squeal. You need the jack the car up yourself and check the pads thickness. Go to the auto part store and borrow their new pads and compare the thickness against yours. Also, if you got an auto, put in it neutral and jack either the front or the rear one at a time and turn the wheel to see if it's really is locking as they said. How many miles do you have on the car. When check the spin in the rear, make sure the hand brake is released down.
You could also take it to another shop to have it check. But I would not drive it too long or far. Sticking caliper is bad for long drives.

 

I had the pin stick on the rear caliper and wear the inside pad very quickly. The wear indicator then rubbed the caliper making a scraping noise. The fix was as simple as putting a new sliding pin in the caliper bracket. I have never had a seal to go bad, and there is nothing else in the caliper to replace. If the rotors are bad, you can pick up Centric rotors for about $25-$30 each off Ebay.

 

I wouldn't exactly say costly - granted it depends on what parts and who you have do it. I've done all four rotors and pads on my Pilot and S2000 for ~$300 each. That was with doing the work myself with quality parts (OEM pads with Centric Cyro rotors).

The squeal is probably just the warning tab on the pads themselves - if you don't have any shaking during braking the rotors are probably in ok shape but you should have them checked for their thickness (you may not have the shaking if they are too worn, just warped)

Definitely go for a second opinion somewhere else unless you trust this mechanic.

What actual year/make/model/trim car do you have?

 

OEM pads last a while if you don't abuse them. My front pads are at 60,000 miles and still have over 70% left. I adjust my rear drums real tight but just slight drag so it helps.

 

I think the 1st issue to resolve is that you were told the caliper was bad.
Sometimes minor maintenance is needed rather than replacing. The caliper is supposed to float on the screws so that it grips both sides of the rotor evenly. If the caliper is stuck to the screw, the corrosion is not too bad and the boots are in good shape you can clean and re-lube.

Be sure the caliper pistons are not stuck.
The front calipers can be compressed using a 6" C clamp without disconnecting the brake line or loosening the bleeder screw.
The rear calipers screw in using a big screw driver or flat bar.
Note: do not attempt braking while caliper is off of the rotor or you may push the piston out too far.

If the seals are torn or the caliper is leaking fluid it will need to be replaced or you can rebuild.
Reference: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-rebuild-brake-calipers-1818964/

The rotors should be smooth. If not they will need to be turned.
Take to your local NAPA store that has a shop and they will resurface.
If they are too worn then I'd take the advice of getting a good looking set
from a junk yard and having them resurfaced. That can save you about a hundred bucks.

Hope this helps.

 

Had the car checked by another shop and they said I just need the rotors turned and new pads. Question: Do the rotors on this car have to be turned while on the car?

 

the rotors need to be put on a lathe and cut smooth.

 

Unless you take it to the dealer, most shop don't have a machine to turn rotors while on the car. I don't think your rear rotors are captured are they?

 

That's great news! I had a feeling you were getting some malarkey. I believe (as other have said) rotors can be cut on the car, depends on the shop.

You could save yourself a bundle in labor if you removed the rotors yourself, and had a shop cut them.

I am not a huge pep boys fan, but if you purchase pads with them, they will cut your rotors for 10bucks (already off the car). At least this was the deal I got a few months ago at my local pep boys.

 

No, but it would help to know what year car you have. 90-97 have a captured front rotor which is a PITA to remove. If this is your car and the rotors have runout, scoring or heavy corrosion jut purchase new rotors and replace them.

Normally you do not need to turn rotors when replacing pads. Turning removes mass from the rotor, and mass is what helps absorb and dissipate heat. A thinner rotor will not have the ability to absorb/dissipate heat.