LS b18 turbo build 1991 civic hatch
So i bought a 1991 honda civic dx hatchback and decided i wanted to build it. Was debating on the best swap for a while and decided to go with an ls motor. I post this for your opinions and knowledge from experience, so feel free to give me advice or ask questions. I had a buddy helping me out with this build but took off and im stuck building myself.
BLOCK:
B18b1 -1995
bored to 81.5mm stock sleeves
CP forged pistons no coating 9.0:1 .02 over
Brian Crower H-beam rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolts
Cometic MLS Headgasket
ACL race rod/main/thrust bearings
ARP headstuds
Supertech block guard- may not help but cant hurt right?
stock crank, polished and balanced
stock flywheel
upgraded clutch- haven't decided yet
HEAD:
1994 PR4-1 head(b1) stock no port or polish ill be building another head
skunk2 dual valvesprings, titanium retainers
Valves? coating no coating, forged?
supertech valve guides
stock cams
FUEL SYSTEM
stock manifold not port match
aem fuel rail
stock injectors
cold air intake
ECU
stock p75?
Hasport mounts, new shift linkage and axles
This is what i'm starting with, i will be upgrading alot after I just get it in and running. NOT cutting corners, i wont be boosting until i upgrade head more and fuel system.
my questions:
-i THINK this is a 1995 block. i say this because the code below the "b18b1" starts with a 2 (94-01) thats a 95 right? my d15b2 starts with a 4 and my hatch is a 1991.
-What ecu should i use and where could i get custom made D to B series harness? i dont want have to worry about wiring myself, just make it easier and plug and play
-Best Axles?
-My transmission has a code on the front and starts with s1, i have no idea what year this is and wheather its a hydro or cable, i pulled the engine out of a older integra ls not a 94-01 model, so it was swapped. didn't want to hope that it was a 95 because he had a a1 head so the motor was tampered with, he said it was rebuilt, so i took apart the whole trans and looked for myself and it has a lot of life left, i just cant figure out the year.
I'll post all pics of what I'm doing start to finish, this is a thread on my whole entire build so hopefully alot of these common questions can be answered in one post and people can also see the process and what needs to be done when building these motors. thanks for all the help
BLOCK:
B18b1 -1995
bored to 81.5mm stock sleeves
CP forged pistons no coating 9.0:1 .02 over
Brian Crower H-beam rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolts
Cometic MLS Headgasket
ACL race rod/main/thrust bearings
ARP headstuds
Supertech block guard- may not help but cant hurt right?
stock crank, polished and balanced
stock flywheel
upgraded clutch- haven't decided yet
HEAD:
1994 PR4-1 head(b1) stock no port or polish ill be building another head
skunk2 dual valvesprings, titanium retainers
Valves? coating no coating, forged?
supertech valve guides
stock cams
FUEL SYSTEM
stock manifold not port match
aem fuel rail
stock injectors
cold air intake
ECU
stock p75?
Hasport mounts, new shift linkage and axles
This is what i'm starting with, i will be upgrading alot after I just get it in and running. NOT cutting corners, i wont be boosting until i upgrade head more and fuel system.
my questions:
-i THINK this is a 1995 block. i say this because the code below the "b18b1" starts with a 2 (94-01) thats a 95 right? my d15b2 starts with a 4 and my hatch is a 1991.
-What ecu should i use and where could i get custom made D to B series harness? i dont want have to worry about wiring myself, just make it easier and plug and play
-Best Axles?
-My transmission has a code on the front and starts with s1, i have no idea what year this is and wheather its a hydro or cable, i pulled the engine out of a older integra ls not a 94-01 model, so it was swapped. didn't want to hope that it was a 95 because he had a a1 head so the motor was tampered with, he said it was rebuilt, so i took apart the whole trans and looked for myself and it has a lot of life left, i just cant figure out the year.
I'll post all pics of what I'm doing start to finish, this is a thread on my whole entire build so hopefully alot of these common questions can be answered in one post and people can also see the process and what needs to be done when building these motors. thanks for all the help
As far as the blockguard goes, I would recommend that you don't. Personally, I have one in my b16 and it gave me all kinds of over heating issues due to the holes in it being so small.
As for the wiring goes, your car had a DPFI (which is only 2 injectors), you will need to convert the car to MPFI, which there are a ton of write-ups. Here is an example of a good write up on it.
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/techni...-diagrams.html
Once you convert the car to MPFI, you will want to get OBD0-OBD1 distributor and ECU conversion harness. This will allow you to run a chipped OBD1 ECU, which will benefit when you boost it, so you can get your motor tuned, or if you are going to run Hondata.
Also any reason you are doing Titanium springs and retainers on stock cams? Seems to defeat the purpose of having them honestly.
What are your power goals for the motor? Some things will not be necessary depending on your goals. I mean if you want to throw cash at something that you possibly won't even have a use for, such as AEM fuel rail, which stock fuel rail is good for (I believe) 400+hp.
As for the wiring goes, your car had a DPFI (which is only 2 injectors), you will need to convert the car to MPFI, which there are a ton of write-ups. Here is an example of a good write up on it.
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/techni...-diagrams.html
Once you convert the car to MPFI, you will want to get OBD0-OBD1 distributor and ECU conversion harness. This will allow you to run a chipped OBD1 ECU, which will benefit when you boost it, so you can get your motor tuned, or if you are going to run Hondata.
Also any reason you are doing Titanium springs and retainers on stock cams? Seems to defeat the purpose of having them honestly.
What are your power goals for the motor? Some things will not be necessary depending on your goals. I mean if you want to throw cash at something that you possibly won't even have a use for, such as AEM fuel rail, which stock fuel rail is good for (I believe) 400+hp.
Anyone else have some preferences?
best clutchs for honda's?
S1 vin code on transmission, year, make(a1,b1)
best valves, coating no coating and BRAND?
Am i correct about my block being a 1995?
hondata or shop tuning- preferences?
just trying to get everything solved before I start building. thanks for the help
best clutchs for honda's?
S1 vin code on transmission, year, make(a1,b1)
best valves, coating no coating and BRAND?
Am i correct about my block being a 1995?
hondata or shop tuning- preferences?
just trying to get everything solved before I start building. thanks for the help
ok, so ill stay away from the block guard for sure. as for the harness, I cant get one thats already converted, then use the OBD-0 to OBD-1 dizzy and ecu conversion harness without having to mess with my current dpfi? i just dont want to spend money on an engine im taking out of the car, but if i must then i will.
And yea, the springs and everything are pointless without cams, especially with what i'm doing. Because my head is used the cam journals inside the head obviously have some wear, and putting new cams can create pressure holding problems and sometimes cause your head to blow. So i was going to use this head for a short period of time as i'm building a brand new head in my garage. this way the cams are perfectly within spec of the journals, and the journals themself have no wear.
And yes, i have huge plans for the car. This is a boost build, so i have no budget. I'm putting over $5000 into the motor alone and somewhere around $3500-$4000 on the boost and tuning. Trying to reach 450hp to possible 500hp. Will be a street car most of the time so I wont be running that much power everyday, i only plan 225-250 daily driving.
And yea, the springs and everything are pointless without cams, especially with what i'm doing. Because my head is used the cam journals inside the head obviously have some wear, and putting new cams can create pressure holding problems and sometimes cause your head to blow. So i was going to use this head for a short period of time as i'm building a brand new head in my garage. this way the cams are perfectly within spec of the journals, and the journals themself have no wear.
And yes, i have huge plans for the car. This is a boost build, so i have no budget. I'm putting over $5000 into the motor alone and somewhere around $3500-$4000 on the boost and tuning. Trying to reach 450hp to possible 500hp. Will be a street car most of the time so I wont be running that much power everyday, i only plan 225-250 daily driving.
As far as the wiring goes, since the car is DPFI, you will need to convert it to MPFI and then use the ECU and distributor jumper harness to convert the car to OBD1 to run a chipped P28, or whichever ECU. P28 is the most popular.
Doing the DPFI to MPFI is easier than replacing the cabin and engine harness in my opinion.
Sounds like an awesome build nonetheless. Good luck with it!
Ok thanks ill just do the conversion myself for the mpfi, if that's less trouble that's exactly what I want. Thanks for the help keep updated I will have a separate thread on the whole build here pretty soon so you can see everything start to finish.
thanks for the help guys, sorry the thread has not been updated in a while i have been going through some troubles. i just moved into an apartment complex and can no longer build the civic so my money spent on the hatch is all going toward my new 1995 honda integra ls-vtec. check my threads to catch up and see how the build is doing i have plenty of new questions for the new car. i will start the thread here soon keep updated
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