so i had a post earlier on here and its been dead for about a week now so il start from the beginning.

i have a 90 si and i swapped the motor out with a 94 civic. i changed over the throttle body to work with the 90 wiring harness and ecu. i also switched the 90 distributor with the 94 that way i didn't have to cut my factory wiring harness.

my issue is the 94 motor will not stay running without the help of me adding gas into the cylinder or using starting fluid into the throttle body itself.

i am getting fuel i can hear the fuel pump priming and i believe the pressure is good. i have already checked the spark in all cylinders. cyc # 3,4 have a blue spark and # 1,2 have a yellowish spark.

i have replaced the main relay as it was bad. No cel is on. The car will not crank over when the key is turned i have to use a jumper wire to the starter from the battery and i am not sure as to why, but when the car did run it wasn't a problem and when i turned the key off it would shut off.

im wondering if the 90 fuel pump isn't strong enough to power over the 94 motor. but that doesn't make since seeing how i have the original 4 injectors on the new motor now instead of the throttle body injection that was on there previously.

anyone have any ideas please let me know thanks

 

You can hear the pump, but that doesn't mean your injectors are firing.
check for +12 volts at the resistor box with the key on as well as +12 at each injector.

The distributor controls the injectors to fire.
Then the ECU sends a ground signal off the the injector.
You would need a noid light to check this.

 

Wait a minute... you wrote Si and I thought your chassis was an Si.
Is this right?

the confusion is here
" i have the original 4 injectors on the new motor now instead of the throttle body injection that was on there previously"

The DPFI is sometimes referred to as the throttle body injection.
but it only had two injectors.

So what did you have before you did the swap?

 

its a 90 honda civic si 4 injectors new motor is a 94 civic motor with dpfi

 

does not compute????? are you sure it's a 94 and not a 96? what???? take a pic. this makes no sense.

 

yes i am 100% positive. Its the same motor 1.5L 24 valve

1990 motor had 4 injectors 1 per cylinder

94 motor had only two which mix inside the throttle body itself


took 94 throttle body off and bolted the 90 throttle body on. I did this so i didnt have to change my wiring harness. they are interchangeable.

 

so your running dpfi intake manifold with a mpfi throttle body, so your car has no injectors now?? I didn't know that was possible but i've never tried. best way to do this swap is take your whole intake manifold off the 90 motor and dizzy. put them on to your new motor. Btw unless your out of the usa no 94 motor came stock dpfi.

 

Yea no 94 single is dpfi n im sure no 1990 civic has 4 injectors the wood have the dpfi so u are actually putting in ur stock motor n the new motor must have been swapped for watever reason also the new motor runs obd1 n ur car runs obd0 but if ur running 4 injrctors on the old motor den someone in the past made it obd1.......plz correct me if im erong anyone


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Edited my post.
Reread your post again and you do have it set up correctly.
You have the 90 intake manifold, ECU and distributor installed.
It fires if you use starting fluid in the intake.

Verify that your injectors are firing.

The starter thing is weird.
Possibly a bad ground?
Try using a set of jumper cables and clamp from the NEG post on the battery to the transmission housing.
Don't connect the other jumper cable.

 

Jus use 4 injector manifold, n ur obd1 dizzy, n throttle body n get a obd1 ecu. If ur motor is vtec then u will need a vtec ecu if u dont have vtec then use a non vtec ecu


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ok well i will see if i can restate this again

i put a 1994 with dpfi motor into a 1990 car without dpfi.

i took my Factory intake manifold with everything on it IE: fuel rail, injectors, everything, off of the 1990 motor

i purchesed a 1994 motor and took all the parts from my FACTORY motor i took off and bolted them to the new 94 motor i purchesed.

My car did Not come with dpfi insted it had mpfi (i believe this is the correct term for having 1 fuel injector per cylinder correct me if i am wrong)

for the new motor to work i had to switch the wiring harness from the factory with the wiring harness that came with the new motor.

i also had to take my factory distributor and put it onto the new motor as well.


So, what i have is a 1994 honda civic 1.5L 24valve (non vtec) motor, that has a 1990 honda intake manifold, distributor, wiring harness, and injectors on it.


i kept saying throttle body (idk y) but what i ment is the the Entire Intake Manifold i swapped over

Sorry for that.

 

I'm sorry man....... This makes no sense to me.. I would like to further help you but I'm just curious how its not a 94..

 

ok, think i understand.


lets see, where to start.....

did you make sure you put in the distributor in right? as in it need to turn in 180*?

your fuel pump will work fine, people put in b swaps without swapping out fuel pumps so you're okay in that part.

take your starter out, alternator out, and battery out, and get them tested. now, to get your alternator and battery system tested really good, you need to find a shop that has a VAT-40 charging system. this will put a major load on your system and they can tell you after all the readings what you'll need.

you might have all the wiring, but do you have all the vacuum lines hooked back up right? check with a manual to make sure you didn't cross some hose's up. as in, is your MAP hooked up right?

check some of those, also double check your grounds.

 

checked off on everything in your post new alt new starter new battery
all lines are correct
all grounds are correct (and new for the most part)

as for the distributor, what do you mean by turning is 180? is this from TDC of #1 cylinder? If so the arrow that is on the rotor (inside the cap) it's self should be pointing in which direction?

 

this is confusing you did a mpfi to dpfi?
post pics i wanna see whats your setup

 

I think one or more connectors in the engine bay is not fully seated.

Check whether all 4 injector clips get voltage with the key in ON(II).

When the key is held in ON(III), does the starter solenoid clip get battery voltage?

 

i did dpfi to mpfi

 

i will check that tomorrow afternoon i do know though the starter wire running to the solenoid doesn't get any power from turning the key to start position have test that many times no fuses are blown all fuses in car are working and intact also i could't find any burnt or broken wire's leading from ignition to starter it's self so i believe the ignition has **** the bed

i will test injectors tomorrow and post results

 

Check whether the rubber stopper that presses on the safety switch at the top of the clutch pedal has fallen out.

 

i will do that tomorrow as well and post results.

 

its still there

 

all engine clips are connected properly

injectors are all getting power

start solenoid does not get voltage when key is turned

 

i was tinkering around with it today and i decided to take the fuel pressure regulator off and see how much fuel pressure comes out of it and it just comes out not fast but not slow when the key is turn on. also i can place my finger over the hole and hold back the fuel.

i feel like i shouldn't be able to do this. rather it should come out of their with more force. i need to go buy a fuel pressure tester and see what the pressure actually is.

my thoughts is the fuel pump is working but can't sustain pressure for the motor to run.
when i put gas in the cylinder it runs fine until the gas burns off.

 

what ever you do, DO NOT DO THAT! look at this link before doing anything that serious again. http://www.hydraulicsupermarket.com/injury.html

saying that... might be fuel pump, or the regulator........

 

No crank - test the ignition switch.