well, tried to do cam seal while doing timing belt job and fed it up, it rolled on the camshaft and is now leaking, i tried to save it by pushing it in with screwdriver, no dice, as i figured

so i'm gonna keep an eye on the oil level

in the meantime, i was reading you can get a metal one on ebay that is better than oem?


anyone got that link?

and how the fack do you keep it from rolling on the cam so i don't f this up again?

i read there is special silicone lube for camshaft seals? but can't find any

 

Never seen a metal one. OEM cam seal comes pre-greased so that it slides onto the shaft easily.

 

no kidding?

you think an oem one wont roll out ?

it went in real easy, used a piece of pvc, and i said huh, that was easy, then i looked under the cam to see the seal rolled out, f me i thought lol

sucks i used some permatex on the back of it, now i'm gonna have to clean that out and try again

corkscrew worked great for removing tho, but after this, i decided to leave the crank seal alone

 

The metal cam seal you're thinking of is the cam seal for DOHC engines, where one camshaft turns the dizzy and the other just has a plug at the end.

 

ah ok, i'll get an oem and see how that goes

 

OEM seal or not, you'll still want to coat the lip of the seal that rides along the cam with oil to prevent it from being torn at 1st start up. Another tip, pack the inside of the seal where the spring is with grease. This keeps the spring in place. Yes, oem comes with some grease, but it's not packed. You should never have to use any rtv on cam or crank seals. The tips I'm sharing should also be applied to the crank seals when you dive into that.

Above all, changing any of those seals requires patience until you get them down. They can be tricky, which is why so many people jack them up. Good luck.

 

i'll try that, gonna buy 2, eventually i'll get it ,lol

 

Yea, you will. Just keep an eye on the lip as you're installing it to make sure it's not rolling out. Sometimes, a tiny scribe or pocket screwdriver can be used to help walk the lip around the cam/crank snout as you're getting the seal started. Be careful using this method not to puncture or tear the lip of course.

 

they only had one in stock, just as well, cuz i got that mf, .i think

left plywood under car let it run for 10 minutes, only one drop, i'm thinking it may have been residual

much better seal tho, and i packed it with grease like ya said

lesson learned, only oe for seals

 

Good deal.

Meh, I've had great luck with Felpro seals too.

 

how does the seal not wear out with the cam spinning inside of it?

 

Idk, amazingly the lip of the seal will actually wear a groove into the metal of the cam. I also see all the time that transmission front seals etch grooves into torque converters too.