Hey guys, I did some searching around and learned a bit but couldn't find an issue where the problem is exactly the same.

I suspect its my computer, but just in case I wanted some other people advice and opinions.

Alright.

So, after introducing some 5w-30, royal purple I've noticed my engine hasn't been working quite the same, now Royal Purple is good oil... or at least, It's supposed to be, but I figure it has something to do with it, might be a coincidence.

I've got a chipped ecu, vtec is supposed to kick in at 4k, Rev Limits at 10k and it did for the longest time, until I put Royal Purple in, and the more oil I added (as it burned oil) the worse it gets. Now it kicks in randomly, anywhere from 4-7k. Sometimes, it doesn't kick in at all. When it does kick in, often times it'll go in and out.

What makes me suspect it's my ecu is when I hit the rev limiter, SOMETIMES it likes to limit it to 7k, for a couple hits, and then jump up to 10k. So I figure it might be the issue, I have a stock computer in my trunk... dunno if it works, I'm going to test it out tomorrow....

Any other thoughts? Oil pan doesn't seem to be damaged, but I could be mistaken. I'll have a good look when I have it up on the hoist tomorrow.

 

Might be your vtec solenoid. Just for giggles try changing your oil to non synthetic and see what happens.

 

When was the last time you changed your oil filter. You could check the solenoid for clogging too.

Revving to 10k on a stock valvetrain sounds pretty dangerous.

 

You're probably right, I didn't choose to put it that way, I bought the car with it set like that.

Never thought of the oil filter for some stupid reason, the cars oil was changed not that long ago by the previous owner, I'm not sure if he changed the filter or not too.

EDIT: Got in touch with my father, he told me there IS in fact a dent in my oil pan, I suspect that's the problem. I'll bash it out tomorrow.

 

A dent can reduce oil pressure for sure. Does your check engine light come on at any time? or has it been disabled.......

Just an FYI, when your rev limit is set to 10k, that doesn't mean you have to hit it!

 

Be very careful bashing the dent out. If there is any chance of there being a ltear and the oil leaks out your engine could be destroyed in a matter of seconds. It would be better safe than sorry to replace the pan unless you are sure u can bash it out. The ball on the side of a hammer wrapped in electrical tape could do the trick 'though.

 

Check the vtec solenoid filter. If the engine had a hard life of few oil changes in japan then it may have picked up some gunge causing it to not flow enough oil. Also check for continuity in the vtec switch wire from solenoid to ECU, May have a dodgy connection so where...

 

Odds are that it's the dent in the oil pan causing oil pressure to drop below what is needed for vtec to kick in.

I'm very curious as to if the OP has a vtec pressure switch ? Can you check to see ?

 

I'm almost positive I can get the dent bashed out, it's kind of like a dent you'd pull out of your fender with a plunger. We have rubber hammers out the wazoo too.

 

I had a B16 that vtec never worked until I seen the dented oil pan, pounded it out and it cracked first time out after that with no problem.

 

Got my oil pan fixed, drove it for a day and proceeded to blow up my engine.

I have 4000 dollars for an engine job, I really like my cars body. Some of that money is to go to a turbo. What engine can I suck the most power out of that will haul my accords heavy *** around? Engine, Transmission, and Boost.

 

H22 I would assume

 

You could boost an F23 and build it for less than it would cost for a reliable H22 under boost. My 2¢ worth!

However with all of the F20B swap parts in there an H might be more worthwhile. That is as long as you can find one for a decent price. An H22 w/trans both in good condition could chew up half of your budget very easily. That's without doing any regular maintenance to it before you drop it in.