so i have a p28 with neptune rtp in it, and i went to install it on my car and tried to turn it over. nothing happened. do i have to unlock the system and downoad anything in order to make this setup work properly? this is my first time doing this and i just want to do it the right way without having to pay some one to do something i could do with advice from someone on here.

thanks again

 

http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/videos take a look at the help videos this will get you started

 

/\ That's exactly what I was going to post.

 

Thanks, ill take a gander after I get off work.

 

Ok so I looked into this before I had to go to work aaaannnndd, when you create a basemap on the software, do you have to have the ecu connected to the car and a laptop in order to upload the settings to the ecu in order for it to save to the ecu? Or can you upload the settings to the ecu via lap top then pop it in the car and start it and run? Little lost on that part.

 

The ecu has to be powered up

 

Got it. Another question, the small battery that's included with the setup, if this has been sitting in my closet for over 6 months give or take, is it a good idea to replace that as well? What is that used for?

Edit:

Also, this just came to mind, if I'm choosing an n/a map what do I use for lsv? I chose the p72 ecu as a base to run, how would I go back and readjust to proper specs?

 

The battery is good for 10 years or so.

It doesn't need to be in the car and it doesn't need to be in the ECU. It's powered by USB.

P72 is a good starting point. The parameters have everything you need, so take a look.

 

Oh ok, right on. So if I understanding correctly, you can connect the ecu via USB to a laptop w/o being in the car plugged up and still transfer basemaps?

And if I wanted to disable the secondary butterflies, is that located in another features folder? I'm running a victor x manifold.

 

Correct.

You don't need to disable butterflies as it's not a code inducing feature. It's in the parameters if you really want to, though. You should get acquainted with all of the options in the parameters window. The help gives basic explanations.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsjjJ...ature=youtu.be


what do you think about this?

 

Anyone? Kind of in a hurry to figure this out. Really didn't match anything up in the FAQ section that could potentially help my given situation.

 

1776mBar at idle didn't stick out as odd? Your map sensor clearly isn't working or you set it up incorrectly. If you expanded the table size you'd see you're off the current map way to the right. (Column 10 is 1045, so you're passed that.)

 

What would be the cause of that. The map was the original one that came off the original ls that was in the car. It ran with no probs at all. This is still all new stuff to me

 

Any number of things including the sensor itself or wiring.

 

Wiring is done correctly. There is a small leak because only 3 of the 4 screws are being used atm. Unless I have the wiring backwards on the map

 

Check and see. You don't need to start the car to verify everything is working. With the key on and the engine off MAP should read close to the same as the atmospheric pressure sensor (Your says 1009mBar).

 

Is that something that can be manually recalibrated? Assuming no because its a fixed piece. If it is not the same as the a.p. then would a new seal and sensor be the suggested route to go? Also, would the fact that the spacer plate I have installed is filled with jb weld on the iacv port? At first I filled it, then redrilled a small hole to vent some of the pressure due to assuming the squealing noise was from that.

Oh and one other thing, what do you suggest for the wiring that was done for the ckf trick? Should I leave it stock or put it back? I was receiving a code 9 because it was not wired to stock while wired for ckf elimination.

 

Check the wiring first. You won't be showing boost (Or maxing out the sensor) at idle because of a vacuum leak. If everything is perfect with the wiring and it still isn't working, try a new sensor. If you get the same results go back to wiring.

The CKF elimination trick doesn't apply to OBD1 ECUs, so really I have no idea why you're even playing with that wiring.

 

The only reason why I brought that up is because the car was running an obd2 computer...and I was not aware if it was tied into the cyp error code once the car was jumped via jumper harness back down to an obd1 computer. But ya, ill definitely check the sensor.


But that still makes me wonder, if the iacv port is completely blocked with no chance of air getting to it, would that cause the car to pull more of a vacuum thus triggering the map to read 177whatever of a reading because its not vented elsewhere?

 

no, if anything without an iacv the car would pull less vacuum as the throttle has to be opened more.

 

Well then, looks like ill be needing that bolt and map sensor either way lol.

 

Anything above your atmospheric pressure reading (1009) is positive pressure, not vacuum. Your sensor or wiring has an issue.

 

so i opened up the hole to the iacv sensor a little more and i got the car to idle for a little longer than normal. but the funny thing is when i pull the plug off of the map sensor the cars idle does not change, still that 300 rpmish range. i did also recalibrate the tps to 3% by adjusting it manually so i think that may have helped a little. since it was fluctuating around 9 to 13%. you guys still think its the map sensor?