Drop spring install w/o compressor?
^lol...very true, cross your fingers you dont f*ck yourself up getting the springs off...but how do you think your gonna get the tophat on the drop springs? The hulk might be able to do it.
If i had to do it with out compressor i would prob cut spring in few places with cut off wheel/sawzall and then undo top nut. Then hope like hell i was strong enough to get new on and start nut
Why? There is no load on them... And at napa you have to be 18 for a rentals account.. I'm 17, when if I was just to use a set of heavy duty ratchet straps?
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Not to be a dick but we have given you plenty of suggestions, and you still want to tey other things. So "knock" your self out. There is a good reason why techs get paid the money they do, because most of us have ase's and or schooling. If nothing else take to a shop and pay the hr labor to have new springs installed, that way if a prob you can blame them
Why do i have a feeling your trying to put new springs on old work out shocks
Not true at all. Where did you here that. There is a shiet ton of load on them. Research and be careful before you do something your gonna regret.
^this....
get ready soon after you put lowering springs on old struts that arent designed for a drop to blow them.
get ready soon after you put lowering springs on old struts that arent designed for a drop to blow them.
There's a lot of preload on the coil spring even if your wheels are hanging. The springs are preloaded when you attach them to the strut. Nevertheless, it can be done without a spring compressor. I have a pair of spring compressors but I find it easier and faster to remove and reinstall springs without the compressor.
I have done it many times without a broken teeth but remember there is always the risk and you are on your own. I am not pursuing you to do what I did but I will only share how I did it.
Here goes!
1. As always, engage e-brakes and block the wheels except the one which has the spring waiting for your teeth.
2. Use a crocodile jack and lift the car from the nearest jack-up point.
3. remove the wheels
4. Use another crocodile jack( other jacks can be used but the crocs are better) and
put it in the lower control arm nearest to the wheel, pump-up until the jack on the chassis is free.
5. Now release the jack on the control arm a little bit just to make the other jack firm
and very little load applied to it. You might want to put the wheels under the car just
in-case something goes wrong.
6. Loosen the bolts on the LCA but don't remove yet.
7. Dont remove the 2 nuts on the top hat.
8. Loosen the nut at the top of the strut until the nut is same level as bolt.
9. Verify that the nut is clear from the washer and the nut and bolt does not move
downwards. If it goes down, you may have to put some weight on the car to
compress the spring further.
10. If all is well, you can now remove the nut on the top of the strut.
11. Now the spring loads are on the jack. Release the jack on the LCA very slowly and
spring will elongate slowly while the LCA is moving down.Continue until no force
remains on the spring. The spring sometimes snap loose when its nearing the bottom but dont panic because it has nowhere to go but up and the force is minimal.
Keep the other jack on the chassis.
12. Now remove the bolt holding the fork and anything else that prevents the spring to come out.
Re-installation is just the opposite but you would need a small rod to guide the upper end of the strut to enter the top hat.
I have done it many times without a broken teeth but remember there is always the risk and you are on your own. I am not pursuing you to do what I did but I will only share how I did it.
Here goes!
1. As always, engage e-brakes and block the wheels except the one which has the spring waiting for your teeth.
2. Use a crocodile jack and lift the car from the nearest jack-up point.
3. remove the wheels
4. Use another crocodile jack( other jacks can be used but the crocs are better) and
put it in the lower control arm nearest to the wheel, pump-up until the jack on the chassis is free.
5. Now release the jack on the control arm a little bit just to make the other jack firm
and very little load applied to it. You might want to put the wheels under the car just
in-case something goes wrong.
6. Loosen the bolts on the LCA but don't remove yet.
7. Dont remove the 2 nuts on the top hat.
8. Loosen the nut at the top of the strut until the nut is same level as bolt.
9. Verify that the nut is clear from the washer and the nut and bolt does not move
downwards. If it goes down, you may have to put some weight on the car to
compress the spring further.
10. If all is well, you can now remove the nut on the top of the strut.
11. Now the spring loads are on the jack. Release the jack on the LCA very slowly and
spring will elongate slowly while the LCA is moving down.Continue until no force
remains on the spring. The spring sometimes snap loose when its nearing the bottom but dont panic because it has nowhere to go but up and the force is minimal.
Keep the other jack on the chassis.
12. Now remove the bolt holding the fork and anything else that prevents the spring to come out.
Re-installation is just the opposite but you would need a small rod to guide the upper end of the strut to enter the top hat.
You can easily and safely remove the springs without a spring compressor.
With your car on jackstands, place the hydraulic jack under the suspension of the corner you're working on and begin to compress the shock/spring a few inches. With the jack supporting the lower control arm, remove the nut at the top of the shock and slowly lower the suspension. As the suspension drops, the shock will drop out of the shock tower and then you can easily remove the spring from the shock. You may need to remove the bolt attaching the shock to the lca to make removal easier once the shock drops.
With your car on jackstands, place the hydraulic jack under the suspension of the corner you're working on and begin to compress the shock/spring a few inches. With the jack supporting the lower control arm, remove the nut at the top of the shock and slowly lower the suspension. As the suspension drops, the shock will drop out of the shock tower and then you can easily remove the spring from the shock. You may need to remove the bolt attaching the shock to the lca to make removal easier once the shock drops.
do it in the grass and put a foot on the shock body a few turns before things come apart. a few inches of rapid acceleration isn't enough to launch things into outer space.
they aren't preloaded to the extent of a factory spring, no compression is required to place the top hat back on the shock with a lowering spring.
simple math, if they are stiffer than stock (and i haven't seen a lowering spring yet which isn't), they'll have to be shorter than stock.
YOU CAN REMOVE THEM WITHOUT A SPRING COMPRESSOR!!!
NO, you don't need one. Spring compressors make the job even more of a pain in the ***.
Yes, there is preload on the springs. Yes, the will pop free once the top mount is off. NO, they will go shooting free breaking ****.
Step on the end of the shock, and remove the bolt. THe spring will pop out a few inches. It will be rapid, but no where even close enought to do any damage to anything.
I've done it many times, without issues.
NO, you don't need one. Spring compressors make the job even more of a pain in the ***.
Yes, there is preload on the springs. Yes, the will pop free once the top mount is off. NO, they will go shooting free breaking ****.
Step on the end of the shock, and remove the bolt. THe spring will pop out a few inches. It will be rapid, but no where even close enought to do any damage to anything.
I've done it many times, without issues.
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looks good thanks for all the "helpful" advise
