i have a 89 civic 4 door b18 obd1 swap.
This car is not running no fuel filter 0.o its going straight to the fuel rail.
Car used to start/run good.
Right now the car has some integra wirings ghetto setup.

drove it one day and died out. Kept cranking but no start.
checked for spark its good. fuel pump wasn't priming
Changed fuel pump and it primes now.
But it starts but it dies a few seconds.

Used starting fluid start it but it idles like its gonna die out or it idles like shiiit.
keep trying starting fluid but still dies out a few seconds and can't idle for sh*t.


Could it be my fuel injectors since its has no fuel filter?
so lost right now.
Any help appreciated.

 

anyone?

 

You may want to try a known good working Main Relay.

You may also want to check out http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html as they have tests you can run to verify everything is working properly.

Also is the Check Engine Light on? If so which codes are being thrown?

Have you verified you are getting fuel at the rail even though there isn't a fuel filter?

 

im having a similar problem with my 90 civic si

just dropped a new 94 civic motor into the car only part that had to be changed was the distributor and the throttle body

i was able to use the factory wiring harness by switching these parts

old 90 motor ran fine untill one day it just died lost compression in all cylinders

94 motor has excellent compression

problem is now with the new motor hooked up the car will not start only cranks over when i jump the starter. turning the key to start doesn't do anything.might me the ignition idk but i ran with a jumper switch to the starter for almost a year ignition will shut car off. i lifted up the back seat looking for the fuel pump relay and i believe it is inside the silver bracket that was under there.when i removed it i found a connector that i guess goes straight to the fuel pump 2 wires and a third wire that runs under the car (idk what that one is) and when i hooked a test light to those wire i wasn't getting the test light to light up. so i dont believe my fuel pump is turning on....the motor will run on starting fluid but i dont like doing that its terrible for these little 1.5 motors.


anyone have any idea as to what the problem may be i would much appreciate any and all suggestions. also i am not sure where the main relay is on this car i was told it was tested and it was fine..not sure cant find it for myself to do.

 

The red arrow points to a rubber stopper. Did it fall out?

 

Problem Fixed!

1.tried checking a good working main relay no go
2. check for spark, it was sparking blue so i got good spark
3. pulled out my fuel rail/ injectors cleaned it
4. pulled the fuel filter hoses to check for fuel(didnt have fuel pressure guage) no fuel spitting out.
5. went to my sending unit. followed the fuel pump wire and it was ghetto rigged to the fuse box. -_-
plus it was disconnected i guess when i was driving my foot pulled it out.
plugged it on my fuse box.
and it started right up..............

 

i will check for that when i get off work and am home will be around like 6 pm est
thanks a bunch for replying


edit: i checked the rubber stopper its still there still need to figure out when my fuel pump isn't getting power

 

RonJ@HT - i clicked on the help links at the bottom of your mesage and found a ton of useful information thanks a bunch for having that there (makes me feel less stupid asking questions haha) as you can tell i am not a honda guru more of a rotary nut still basic princable an engine is an engine but anyway i am going to try out a lot of these steps tomorrow and friday afternoons and i will report back my findings thanks a bunch

 

So the starter does not crank the engine and the fuel pump does not prime? In this case, check the G3 transmission ground.

 

starter will only crank when i run a jumper wire from the battery to the starter itself not by the ignition

the rubber boot on the clutch is still there and feels intact

ground from the transmission is tight and intact for extra measure i ran a second ground wire from the battery to the body of the car as the only ground wire comming from this battery was to the top of the clutch (where the cable meets the tranny)

still no luck so i am going to check tomorrow with a multi meter to see what amount of power is comming from the ignition

i went to the fuse box and with a test light checked all fuses and they all light up on both points of the fuse so those are all eliminated as a possible issue

when i turn the key to on i do not hear the fuel pump prime up
at first i thought it was because i had pressure still in my fuel rail so i disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter and drained the fuel in the rail....turn the key to on and still didnt hear the fuel pump prime up

you wouldnt happen to know what the two wires the run under my passenger seat in the rear and go into that silver cap go to? (almost 100% positive its going straight into the fuel tank to the fuel pump.) eathier way when i had someone turn ignition on and off while i was in the back checking the wires with a test light i didnt get any light at all from those wires.


will report back with results from more test i do tomorrow

 

What's the resistance (Ohms) between the body of the starter motor and the battery ground post?

 

i will go buy a multi meter tomorrow and test it

 

Here's how to Bypass the Main Relay if you can't afford $40 or need to test the main relay. By no means you should run without a relay it since it is really a safety device.

Take out your main relay and
Hook up a wire on the pin connectors from BLK/YEL (IGN1) to YEL/BLK (Injectors) and YEL/BLK (Fuel Pump) and GRN/BLK( ECU).

If all goes well when you turn the Key to ON position your fuel pump will prime and your ECU will be ready to run. Leave the other wires disconnected.

 

i bought a new main fuse fuel pump works now ignition still is being weird but car is trying to start im getting a blue spark from # 4 and 3 but # 2 and 1 are a dim yellow not sure why new plugs and wires so idk any ideas ?

 

Have you measured the resistance on the coil? Call up autozone or search for the resistance between the two coil pins and see what you are getting and compare with the specs of a good coil

 

i don't believe my honda has coils its a distributor heres a good question my 90 ecu is it able to run a 94 motor? i have the 90 factory wiring harness in it uncut plugged into everything swapped the 94 distributor with the 90

 

Every gasoline has a coil, its probably inside your distributor cap, unless your have an external in which a wire from the middle of the cap will run directly into the external coil on the side.

As far as the ECU goes it should run it since I am using a PM6 ECU for my ZC DOHC, provided your not using the Vtec motors which needs that extra wire to run the solenoid for vtec.

 

ok i figured my ecu wouldnt have a problem with it the motor is a non vtech so im good there whats a good way to test the coil then or should i go buy a new distributor for the motor?

 

Just measure the resistance of the coil where the wires hook up inside. ( I think.. its been a while....) That or the 12V+ wire on the coil and then the output side of the coil where it attaches to the dizzy cap. make sure its powered off first. Autozone has a chart of what the readings are supposed to be or you can probably google it. New Dizzy's run $100+ thats pretty expensive...

 

my distributor doesn't have a 5th wire going into it from an offset coil just the four for the spark plugs that souldn't make a difference right.

 

so i have good spark from my distrubtor i dont think it is firing 100% correctly how so i reset it? hand crank untill #1 cyc is at tdc and set the rotor so the arrow is at the top?