B16a2 on carburators?
I have a 1991 CRX fitted with a B16a2 that ran fine on the B16a1 OBD0 engine management until the dizzy went.
I have the B16a2 dizzy too but have tested the two of them and tests have revieled that the a1 dizzy has a bad crank sensor and coil and the a2 has just a bad coil. Whether my findings for the coils are right is hard to know but going by info from the interweb it seems to be.
So, i don't have money for a new dizzy so was wondering if it is possible to run a B16a2 on carbs controlling the V-Tec solenoid from a rev counter with adjustable shift light output so would work the V-Tec instead of the shift light.
My reason for the carb idea is to get rid of the trempermental dizzy etc and just have the bare basics for the pure V-Tec engine.
I'll be doing my homework on this so may find out myself that it's a no go.
Anybody tried this or heard anything about it?
I have the B16a2 dizzy too but have tested the two of them and tests have revieled that the a1 dizzy has a bad crank sensor and coil and the a2 has just a bad coil. Whether my findings for the coils are right is hard to know but going by info from the interweb it seems to be.
So, i don't have money for a new dizzy so was wondering if it is possible to run a B16a2 on carbs controlling the V-Tec solenoid from a rev counter with adjustable shift light output so would work the V-Tec instead of the shift light.
My reason for the carb idea is to get rid of the trempermental dizzy etc and just have the bare basics for the pure V-Tec engine.
I'll be doing my homework on this so may find out myself that it's a no go.
Anybody tried this or heard anything about it?
Good, Bad…I'm the one with the gun
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Trapped in time, Surrounded by evil, Low on gas
the distributor provides signal not only to fuel, but to ignition, what is your plan for that?
if you are THAT adamant about distributors, you are better off getting a hall sensor/crank wheel triggering the ECU.
considering that you do not have the money for even a distributor, i'd say all this is a pipe dream anyway.
if you are THAT adamant about distributors, you are better off getting a hall sensor/crank wheel triggering the ECU.
considering that you do not have the money for even a distributor, i'd say all this is a pipe dream anyway.
Stick with getting a new dizzy. There is so much more in intalling carbs. You just dont slap on carbs and call it a day. You need a carb specific dizzy machined to fit your head, new fuel pump since carbs run on 8lbs of pressure, upgraded ignition....the list goes on trust me. I did the carb thing back in 1994 on a D series. It was great!!! A lot of work though. If California smog laws let up I will intall them again!!!!


Should the statement be that the distributor provides signal not only for ignition but for fuel too? I am aware that the dizzy contains all the sensors that control ingition and fueling thats the reason i was interested in doing away with all the electronic crap in the dizzy housing but as said this is just an idea.
I haven't found anywhere that sells a dizzy specific coil yet, any links?
I have found some info on a similar idea on the d16 using a vtec killer cam and tune the carbs for WOT which makes them abit thirsty and rough to drive at lower speeds but i could live with that as it wouldn't be a daily work driver. I've a good idea of most bits involved in the conversion when dealing with carbs like the low pressure pump etc so it's not a completely new concept lol.
The results i got for both dizzys are 1.1 ohms between positive and negative terminals and between positive and HT output is 11,720 ohms on the B16a1 coil and 15,970 ohms on the B16a2 coil.
As the readings between the two terminals should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms and between the positive and HT should be between 13,200-19,800 ohms i'd say it's not good. That sound about right?
As for this whole idea of why not just buy a new dizzy, they go for over £100 and that to me is alot of money and as i'm in Northern Ireland and not the USA, money and jobs are hard to come by so this was why my interest in going carb and doing away with all the electronics in the dizzy that are a common problem. And before anybody says i'm contradicting myself buy saying i've no money but yet am looking at a conversion that will make the car harder to fuel i have already said that the car isn't a daily work driver so will be used every other day if even that.
Hope that got everything sorted lol
I haven't found anywhere that sells a dizzy specific coil yet, any links?
I have found some info on a similar idea on the d16 using a vtec killer cam and tune the carbs for WOT which makes them abit thirsty and rough to drive at lower speeds but i could live with that as it wouldn't be a daily work driver. I've a good idea of most bits involved in the conversion when dealing with carbs like the low pressure pump etc so it's not a completely new concept lol.
The results i got for both dizzys are 1.1 ohms between positive and negative terminals and between positive and HT output is 11,720 ohms on the B16a1 coil and 15,970 ohms on the B16a2 coil.
As the readings between the two terminals should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms and between the positive and HT should be between 13,200-19,800 ohms i'd say it's not good. That sound about right?
As for this whole idea of why not just buy a new dizzy, they go for over £100 and that to me is alot of money and as i'm in Northern Ireland and not the USA, money and jobs are hard to come by so this was why my interest in going carb and doing away with all the electronics in the dizzy that are a common problem. And before anybody says i'm contradicting myself buy saying i've no money but yet am looking at a conversion that will make the car harder to fuel i have already said that the car isn't a daily work driver so will be used every other day if even that.
Hope that got everything sorted lol
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