93 Civic Coupe - How do I get the rear trim panel off?
I need clear access to the trunk latch to do some wiring and also perform some maintenance on the latch cable. I'm looking at the rear trim panel (the metal piece covering up the trunk latch) and wondering what all needs to come off before I can get this thing out. Just from a glance, it looks like I need to remove the rear bumper and every other trim panel around the side of the trunk. Does anybody have any advice or a link to a write-up on this?
Also, there's some kind of adhesive/sealant around the edges of this panel (see pic). Is this stuff stock?
Also, there's some kind of adhesive/sealant around the edges of this panel (see pic). Is this stuff stock?
if that is on the inside of the trink then yes it called seam seal and it means the panale is spot welded to the body. if it's on the out side it's some crap some one befor you put on.
Yea, I inspected it further and the seam seal doesn't appear to be on the rear trim panel itself, but it DOES look like it's spot welded on. I got the electrical test done I needed to do with some trickery using a flashlight and a telescoping mirror (I needed to test continuity at the latch because I'm going to wire up a trunk light).
So in order to run a new trunk latch cable, i need to remove the bumper, disassemble the entire rear trim assembly and pry apart the spot weld joints? :O That's nuts!
So in order to run a new trunk latch cable, i need to remove the bumper, disassemble the entire rear trim assembly and pry apart the spot weld joints? :O That's nuts!
Okay, so I'm guessing I'll need a set of Honda pry bars (or equivalent) to pop these spot weld joints? Will a nylon pry set do, or will I need steel? Is there anything special about the Honda set?
Okay, it looks like (according to the diagram on Majestic) that the #10 part in this pic needs to be removed.

It's like a long metal crossbar and when I look at it on my car, there don't appear to be any clips holding it on. Instead, there are what looks like small flat spots about the size of a pea where I'm assuming it's spot welded or something. I don't just want to go prying and yanking on this piece like a barbarian for fear of bending it up and having to go get a new one. I need to get it off, though, because I need to access the trunk latch. Any ideas?

It's like a long metal crossbar and when I look at it on my car, there don't appear to be any clips holding it on. Instead, there are what looks like small flat spots about the size of a pea where I'm assuming it's spot welded or something. I don't just want to go prying and yanking on this piece like a barbarian for fear of bending it up and having to go get a new one. I need to get it off, though, because I need to access the trunk latch. Any ideas?
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#10 should be a plastic trim panel and when removed there should be ether screws or bolts that hold the latch to the car.
all i'm going to say is if you remove any spot welds from the rear of the car to work on the trunk latch. you will be the first person to turn a 45 Min job into an all day job requiring body work.
all i'm going to say is if you remove any spot welds from the rear of the car to work on the trunk latch. you will be the first person to turn a 45 Min job into an all day job requiring body work.
Haha yea, i hear ya... I was hoping not to have to unscrew the trunk latch and just leave it in place, but it seems to slide out of the side of the holes in the body metal just fine with a little wrangling. The lock mechanism rod didn't want to stay in place, though, after I removed it once. I was worried about breaking the little plastic piece it fits into by popping it out (it's 20 year old plastic and somewhat brittle). I just put a thin coat of J-B Weld inside the hole of the tiny plastic swivel joint where the lock-rod goes and it's tight again now.
i agree that theres no need to pry apart any spot welds, very bad idea. if you decided to take apart spot welds get a drill and seperate it that way.
BUT again you shouldnt need to mess with the spot welds to gain access
BUT again you shouldnt need to mess with the spot welds to gain access
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