H22A1 block to H23 block (internals)
Hi guys, I've got a JDM 1994 Honda Prelude with a H22A1 motor
My problem is this, my H22 block is damaged and from where I'm from I can't get one easily... only the H23 block. So my question is, can I use a bare H23 block instead of my H22 block (which is damaged) ??
I got everything already, cranks, pistons, bearings, oil pump etc etc.
I didn't know my block was also damaged when I bought the rebuild parts for my H22 motor. That's why comes my question of if I can just use the bare H23 block with the H22 internals ??
If not, what should I do ??
My problem is this, my H22 block is damaged and from where I'm from I can't get one easily... only the H23 block. So my question is, can I use a bare H23 block instead of my H22 block (which is damaged) ??
I got everything already, cranks, pistons, bearings, oil pump etc etc.
I didn't know my block was also damaged when I bought the rebuild parts for my H22 motor. That's why comes my question of if I can just use the bare H23 block with the H22 internals ??
If not, what should I do ??
In short, yes you can use an H23 block in place of an H22A1 block.
If possible, use the main caps from the same block, or you should get the mains line honed.
Other than that, all parts will just swap over from one to the other.
If possible, use the main caps from the same block, or you should get the mains line honed.
Other than that, all parts will just swap over from one to the other.
But I was wrong then, that's a relief
Make sure to swap over the oil squirters if you are keeping it H22.
There are ways to make more power with that combination of parts you have ... ask snobordboi ...
There are ways to make more power with that combination of parts you have ... ask snobordboi ...
As long as the H23 is not the H23A vtec model, which uses the 55mm mains, you are good to go.
As Typemismatch said, if you are starting with an H22A1, and H23A1 bottom end, you can make more power pretty easily, by using the H23 block, crank, and rods, with the pistons and rest of the parts from the H22. Using oil squirters may be interesting, as they have to be modified to clear the H23 crank and rods. I deleted the squirters using the plug from the H23, and I also deleted the balance shafts, and plugged the oil passages to them, giving more oil pressure to the crank, which is the most vulnerable area of the H23 setup.
Some other bits to be aware of.... make sure and remove the plug on the top of the block that feeds the head, otherwise you won't have enough oil pressure for VTEC. Also make sure to use a water pump for an H22, as the H23 pump has a different toothed gear to run on the timing belt.
Any more questions, ask away.
As Typemismatch said, if you are starting with an H22A1, and H23A1 bottom end, you can make more power pretty easily, by using the H23 block, crank, and rods, with the pistons and rest of the parts from the H22. Using oil squirters may be interesting, as they have to be modified to clear the H23 crank and rods. I deleted the squirters using the plug from the H23, and I also deleted the balance shafts, and plugged the oil passages to them, giving more oil pressure to the crank, which is the most vulnerable area of the H23 setup.
Some other bits to be aware of.... make sure and remove the plug on the top of the block that feeds the head, otherwise you won't have enough oil pressure for VTEC. Also make sure to use a water pump for an H22, as the H23 pump has a different toothed gear to run on the timing belt.
Any more questions, ask away.
well you know I learn something new everyday, the thing I was confused was about the crank and rods..... but I manage to know by you guys that it will fit as long it's a H23 non-vtec block. but I didn't that by using the H23 crank and rods (but will that crank last the high rev, since a H22 revs higher than H23)
I'm planning to buy the H23 block maybe this weekend but wanted to gather information first before buying, because basically I just need the bare block to fit my H22 internals in, my block has been damage by the main bearings. I got every internals of a H22 block brand new standing here at home.
I'm planning to buy the H23 block maybe this weekend but wanted to gather information first before buying, because basically I just need the bare block to fit my H22 internals in, my block has been damage by the main bearings. I got every internals of a H22 block brand new standing here at home.
Sell the H22 crank and rods, keep the pistons. Use the H23 crank and rods.
This is a high compression N/A build that should make solid power, in the 220-240whp range depending on what else you do ...
While you're in there delete the balance shafts and convert the timing tensioner.
I've got this set up sitting in my closet waiting to be put together, but the gf wants house work done first ... lol
This is a high compression N/A build that should make solid power, in the 220-240whp range depending on what else you do ...
While you're in there delete the balance shafts and convert the timing tensioner.
I've got this set up sitting in my closet waiting to be put together, but the gf wants house work done first ... lol
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Sell the H22 crank and rods, keep the pistons. Use the H23 crank and rods.
This is a high compression N/A build that should make solid power, in the 220-240whp range depending on what else you do ...
While you're in there delete the balance shafts and convert the timing tensioner.
I've got this set up sitting in my closet waiting to be put together, but the gf wants house work done first ... lol
This is a high compression N/A build that should make solid power, in the 220-240whp range depending on what else you do ...
While you're in there delete the balance shafts and convert the timing tensioner.
I've got this set up sitting in my closet waiting to be put together, but the gf wants house work done first ... lol
The ways to keep the H23 crank safe at higher revs are:
Balance it
Delete balance shafts properly, therefore sending more oil to crank.
Delete oil squirters, therefore sending more oil to crank.
I did this, and revved to H22 fuel cut last summer, this year tuning on Hondata for even more rpm with better cams.
Balance it
Delete balance shafts properly, therefore sending more oil to crank.
Delete oil squirters, therefore sending more oil to crank.
I did this, and revved to H22 fuel cut last summer, this year tuning on Hondata for even more rpm with better cams.
I'll use H22 pistons, I got the type S pistons on my car.... so it's already high compressed. I just need a BARE BLOCK to fit my H22 internals in it.
I just want to rebuild my H22, but my block is damaged so I searching one to replaced it.and since I wont' find one here at my country I was asking if my H22 internals will fit in a H23 bare block...that's all
The blocks come from the same cast. Notice at the bottom of the block near the oil pan, you can see P13 on a H23, same as H22, only difference is oil squirters, and a plug for the vtec oil passage. Also make sure to use balance shafts from your H22 if you decide not to delete them as they are different as well. But as far as bare block to bare block same thing. The only thing that makes the displacement different is the length of stroke in crank/rods. It should be closed deck like yours also
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prelittlelude
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