!!! Questions on a Turbo I found !!!!
I've been reading about how people turbo their stock d16y7's and are successfully pushing around 180 - 220 hp with stock everything!! (except for the turbo of course) I've found a Garrett turbo with 2 waste gates and header for $100, a good price I guess. I'm not trying to get crazy power for the track or anything just a nice little fun daily driver so 180 - 220 is perfect for me. Now with the threads I've read I don't know if I need any other components like a Fuel Management Unit or a Fuel Pressure Regulator. I know I'll have to purchase a intercooler and down pipe. Dont know what else. But heres a link of the turbo. I have yet to purchase it but I will if this is a good and safe one for my d16y7..
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/3183092188.html
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/3183092188.html
OP just wanna make most or all of the stuffs in his engine compartment melt and burn and catch on fire while he drives around town. Don't be so harsh on him.
I've been reading about how people turbo their stock d16y7's and are successfully pushing around 180 - 220 hp with stock everything!! (except for the turbo of course) I've found a Garrett turbo with 2 waste gates and header for $100, a good price I guess. I'm not trying to get crazy power for the track or anything just a nice little fun daily driver so 180 - 220 is perfect for me. Now with the threads I've read I don't know if I need any other components like a Fuel Management Unit or a Fuel Pressure Regulator. I know I'll have to purchase a intercooler and down pipe. Dont know what else. But heres a link of the turbo. I have yet to purchase it but I will if this is a good and safe one for my d16y7..
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/3183092188.html
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/3183092188.html

OP, for all of the parts I mentioned, expect to pay a BARE MINIMUM of $1000 for all of the other supporting parts you'll need.
$500 tune
$100 chipped/socketed ECU
$100 intercooler/piping/BOV
$150 oil feed/return lines, fittings, having a return bung welded to the oil pan, and an oil change
$100 downpipe
That's bare minimum. The tune will probably be more expensive, unless you have a hookup. The intercooler/piping/BOV you'd get for $100 would be eBay **** - you should at least upgrade the BOV to a decent, brand name model. oil feed/return costs depend heavily on the cost of having the bung welded in (DON'T FORGET AN OIL PRESSURE RESTRICTOR). The downpipe is a rough guestimate - if you have to have one fabricated, it'll probably cost more.
If you consider that harsh, I'd hate to see what you call me actually being harsh 
OP, for all of the parts I mentioned, expect to pay a BARE MINIMUM of $1000 for all of the other supporting parts you'll need.
$500 tune
$100 chipped/socketed ECU
$100 intercooler/piping/BOV
$150 oil feed/return lines, fittings, having a return bung welded to the oil pan, and an oil change
$100 downpipe
That's bare minimum. The tune will probably be more expensive, unless you have a hookup. The intercooler/piping/BOV you'd get for $100 would be eBay **** - you should at least upgrade the BOV to a decent, brand name model. oil feed/return costs depend heavily on the cost of having the bung welded in (DON'T FORGET AN OIL PRESSURE RESTRICTOR). The downpipe is a rough guestimate - if you have to have one fabricated, it'll probably cost more.

OP, for all of the parts I mentioned, expect to pay a BARE MINIMUM of $1000 for all of the other supporting parts you'll need.
$500 tune
$100 chipped/socketed ECU
$100 intercooler/piping/BOV
$150 oil feed/return lines, fittings, having a return bung welded to the oil pan, and an oil change
$100 downpipe
That's bare minimum. The tune will probably be more expensive, unless you have a hookup. The intercooler/piping/BOV you'd get for $100 would be eBay **** - you should at least upgrade the BOV to a decent, brand name model. oil feed/return costs depend heavily on the cost of having the bung welded in (DON'T FORGET AN OIL PRESSURE RESTRICTOR). The downpipe is a rough guestimate - if you have to have one fabricated, it'll probably cost more.
are you able to tell me if the turbo in the link i've posted will be a good purchase? from what i can tell from the picture its a garrett t3 0.52 a/r? this will be my first messing with a turbo
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No, from the picture, I can't tell you if it would be a good purchase, or even what kind of turbo it is. Look at the fourth picture.

On the charge side (the shiny part, not the rusty looking part), do you see that silver and green badge? Ask for the information off that, and you can figure out exactly what turbo it is. From there, you can find the flow charts and make sure it will fit your motor and goals properly.
Even with that information, we still couldn't tell you if it would be a good purchase. It might be in great condition, or the seals might be damaged. The center cartridge could also be damaged. We have no way of knowing. The best thing you can do is check it out, and see if you can move the shaft off-center with your fingers. If it moves more than 1mm, you need to have the turbo rebuilt.
Personally, if I found a downpipe to fit it, I would buy it. If the turbo is messed up, you can send it off to Blaast Performance and have them do a full rebuild/balance, and still pay less than you would for a new one. That is, assuming they offer a rebuild for that specific turbo. Get the information off that metal plate, contact Blaast, see if they can rebuild it, and go from there.
Because racecar?

On the charge side (the shiny part, not the rusty looking part), do you see that silver and green badge? Ask for the information off that, and you can figure out exactly what turbo it is. From there, you can find the flow charts and make sure it will fit your motor and goals properly.
Even with that information, we still couldn't tell you if it would be a good purchase. It might be in great condition, or the seals might be damaged. The center cartridge could also be damaged. We have no way of knowing. The best thing you can do is check it out, and see if you can move the shaft off-center with your fingers. If it moves more than 1mm, you need to have the turbo rebuilt.
Personally, if I found a downpipe to fit it, I would buy it. If the turbo is messed up, you can send it off to Blaast Performance and have them do a full rebuild/balance, and still pay less than you would for a new one. That is, assuming they offer a rebuild for that specific turbo. Get the information off that metal plate, contact Blaast, see if they can rebuild it, and go from there.
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lamboextreme
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jan 9, 2007 08:46 PM



I'm sorry but that made my day. Hahahahaha
