Rear brake hard lines
Hey guys i have a 93 civic si hatch, had to replace the prop valve because the original one in the car leaked, got the lines on the side with 4 ports all out without stripping the fittings, but the other side with the 2 ports i believe are for the rear brakes leading to the back of the car to the soft lines i had to cut because i stripped the fittings, can't get a good flare on em because there all bent and will be to short to attach back onto the prop valve. Any suggestions?! need help getting my car running, wonder if there is any way to cut the lines a lil way down to where it's straight then attach new lines to em then install back onto the prop valve? or do i need to replace the lines all the way to the back? brake line tuck gurus please chime in, help a beginner out thanks!
If you can't get a good flare on them you might not be able to cut and flare them. That's a statement based on your ability not necessarily on what's possible. The rear lines are reasonably cheap so in your case I would recommend new lines front-to-back.
If you can cut them back to where they are straight and free of corrosion, you can try to flare them, and then use a union, and a preflared 12 in or so piece of line, bend it to take up any slack, and try to secure everything to the firewall with clips or whatever.
I have learned however, that flare joints are usually one time use only. The first time they tightened, at the factory, the metal is crushed to ensure a leak proof high pressure seal. Technically any removal of a double flare fitting (all the lines to the prop valve) should require replacement of the entire line.
Anyway, practically , try the above patch. The real problem with the rear is not really the cost of the lines ( though not particularly cheap $90), you're going to have to be pulling the line right next to all the fuel lines, drop the fuel tank, ....labor intensive even for a properly equipped shop.....one guy on his back in the driveway....gonna be hard.
But hey, DIY.
I have learned however, that flare joints are usually one time use only. The first time they tightened, at the factory, the metal is crushed to ensure a leak proof high pressure seal. Technically any removal of a double flare fitting (all the lines to the prop valve) should require replacement of the entire line.
Anyway, practically , try the above patch. The real problem with the rear is not really the cost of the lines ( though not particularly cheap $90), you're going to have to be pulling the line right next to all the fuel lines, drop the fuel tank, ....labor intensive even for a properly equipped shop.....one guy on his back in the driveway....gonna be hard.
But hey, DIY.
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